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Who Fixes Boilers?

With boiler running for several hours in a day and working hard to ensure that our home stays warm, even when we tend to take it for granted it’s always there give us the heat we need whenever we need it. So in the event whereby the inevitable happens and your boiler breakdown, which professional is the most suitable to call for help? When the pressure is on to stop a boiler leak or bring back warmth to your home, knowing who to call can make all the difference.

When you need a professional to fix your boiler, the right professional to call is a heating engineer. Heating engineers work mainly on heating I both homes and businesses, so you’d be right to call them specialists in all heating matters. As a result of this, you may want to give them a call when experiencing some issues with your boiler as they’d be in the best position than any other professional to give you a proper solution.

Generally, heating engineers are experts when it comes to fixing boilers and can help with various tasks such as installing a new boiler, boiler repairs, installing new gas pipes, repairing gas leaks, changing radiators, fixing leaks, installing heating controls and many more. What’s more? A boiler repair has to do with working with gas and before you can do that you must be a Gas Safe registered engineer as required by the legislations in the UK. In other words, any gas boiler related issue must be tackled by a Gas Safe registered engineer as this is a very dangerous fuel in which the services must be provided to highest standards of safety. Only heating engineers can be a Gas Safe registered engineer to work on gas boilers.

If your existing roof is still in good condition but the membrane is getting old, it’s often not worth exposing the structure to the weather whilst the contractor strips off the old membranes. The contractor will leave them in place to act as a base layer for a new roofing system. As long as there are no other problems with your roof, then overlaying is a good way to replace your flat roof.If you have any more questions about flat roofing that aren’t listed here, fill out our form to ask a contractor.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, you can build a room in your garden. In fact, if you want an additional space for a living room, dining room, games room, study room or perhaps you want something as cool as a pool house, then looking at your garden for a solution may just be the perfect answer to your need for an extra outdoor living space.

Outbuildings such as garden rooms do not usually require planning permission as they’re usually covered by the permitted development. As a result, making it even a lot more attractive to homeowners who would not like to pass through the stress involved or pay the money required to submit an application for planning permission. However, if you need your garden room to be covered by permitted development ( if it’s not a listed building or in a designated area), you must follow these guidelines:

✓ The garden room shouldn’t be in front of your home or property.

✓ The total area of your extensions, sheds and outbuildings ( which includes your garden room), must not go beyond 50 percent of the total land area surrounding your property.

✓ It must be a single storey that’s less than 3 metres high ( 4 metres for a dual pitched roof). And it must not go beyond 2.5 metres in height if the structure is within 2 metres of your boundary.

✓ The eaves must not go beyond 2.5 metres above ground level.

✓ It must not feature a balcony, veranda or any raised platform

✓ It must not be a self contained living accommodation.

The position of your garden room will be partly determined by the space available in your garden. If you need it to link it to your utilities then positioning it a bit close to your main house would be a cost effective choice unless you’re using off grid sources of power, heat as well as water.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

In this day and age, not having an air conditioning system installed in your home will be quite odd and strange. And even more interestingly, air conditioning systems happens to be a necessity at the present time rather than a luxury. However, there are still several people who’ll forgo the option of installing a good air conditioning system in their homes due to the fact that it’s nothing but an extra cost they just don’t wish to incur.

In truth, the cost of purchasing, installing and running an air conditioning system can actually be a turn off to several homeowners, but the numerous benefits you will enjoy by having it installed largely outweighs any drawbacks the system might have. Now let’s consider the benefits associated with AC systems.

✓ It minimizes the risk of dying. Thousands of people die every year across the globe due to the constantly deteriorating temperatures. According to the experts, too much heat can lead to heat strokes and a great way to prevent this from happening is to invest in air conditioning systems.

✓ It improve the quality of sleep. A good quality sleep simply can’t be overstated as it leaves you feeling fresh and revitalized. However, this can be greatly hindered when everything around you is hot. For a good quality sleep, you might want to invest in air conditioning systems as they happen to be best way to have your home feeling cool and super comfortable.

✓ It prevents your devices from overheating. Electrical appliances can also suffer terribly under great heat and are vulnerable to overheating. In fact, devices such as microwaves, PCs, mobile phones and more can get damaged due to heat. The cost of replacing all these appliances will definitely be greater than the cost of installing an air conditioning system.

Are you looking to renovate your home or property by laying a brand new carpet? Or perhaps your current carpet has started giving indications that it’s well past its glorious days and needs to be replaced. Regardless of the reason why you wish to recarpet your home, you’d probably find yourself asking the same question almost every home and property owner in a similar situation asks - how much does it cost to recarpet a house? Well, you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take a good look at house recarpeting costs.

Generally, carpet fitting costs can be within the range of £5 per square meter to about £30 per square meter. However, when it comes carpet costs itself, a short and accurate answer can’t be provided. This is due to the fact that carpet costs can vary largely based on a number of factors which includes the weaves, the texture, the material incorporated ( such as wool, cotton, polyester, polypropylene and more), the pile depth, the colour as well as the brand. What’s more? You’re probably going to want varying carpet types for different areas of your home. For instance, you should use a more robust material for your stairs than what you’d probably get for your living area.

Overall, if you want a low budget carpet, you should be able to get one anywhere within the range of £5 per square meter to £10 per square meter.  On the other hand, if you have a mid range budget, you can expect to find carpets anywhere within the range of £15 per square meter to £20 per square meter. And finally, if you’re looking for luxurious carpets, the price starts at £30 per square meter.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.