Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Cornhill-on-tweed.

If you feel your sewer line is clogged, the best course of action is to have it cleared as soon as possible and even more so, by an experienced professional. When left untreated, this can lead to water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in serious situations, it can lead to pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the sewer line blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing a sewer line and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing sewer lines depend on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your sewer lines, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a bunch of methods that can be used to clear blockages from a sewer line which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

Do note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also come into play.

Fuse box prices will vary and a periodic inspection should be carried out first. However, domestic fuse boxes cost an average of £460. A qualified electrician will advise if yours needs to be replaced and it's always a good idea to obtain a number of quotes before committing to this.

Once you have your new bathroom installed, or perhaps you’re only replacing the old downlights, you’d probably want to know how to go about fitting your new bathroom downlights. If yes, then you’re not alone! This is a very common question amongst several homeowners and we wish to guide you through once and for all. However, it must be said that if you are not a competent DIYer or probably lack the confidence or skills to pull this off, then it’s advisable to hire a professional to get the best results and also save yourself some money and time.

Here are the list of the tools you’ll need to fit your bathroom downlights: Tape measure, chalk line or laser, pencil, pad saw, hand drill, hole saw and screw drivers.

✓ Measure the bathroom ceiling and mark out the central point of the light which will be where the downlights will be placed. Drill a small pilot hole here.

✓ Check above the ceiling to ensure that there’s no pipes, joists or wires in the way. It’s always a good practice to make sure that there’s sufficient room around where the downlight is to be installed in order to avoid placing it too close to a joist or any other obstacle. You should try as much as possible to maintain a 6 inch gap around the spot where the downlight is placed to make sure the fitting does not overheat.

✓ Use a hole saw or a plasterboard saw to make the cut out for the downlight. Check the downlight’s box for instruction on the size.

✓ Once you’ve been able to make a clean cut ceiling hole, pull through the wiring through the hole so that the downlight can be wired. Once done, then you can fit the downlight into the hole by holding the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole.

If you’re about to carry out a loft conversion project, you’d probably be wondering how long it’ll take to complete the task. Well, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions when it comes to loft conversion projects, however, providing a set timeframe for completion of such projects is impossible as all loft conversions vary. There are different factors that can determine the duration of your project. These factors include, the materials to be used, the type of the proposed loft conversion, the kind of staircase you’ll like to have installed, the number of windows included, the number of rooms to be added as well as a number of other influencing factors. As a result of these variables, the milestones and timings provided are only to be taken as guidelines. If you’d really like to have a set date, you can get in touch with a professional for help.

Generally, it’ll take up to 8 weeks to complete a loft conversion project.

✓ The first week activities will include putting up scaffolding, receiving the first materials for the build and creating an opening in the roof to gain access to the loft space.

✓ In the second week, the structure of the roof will be ammended and more support added.

✓ Third week, the floor joists will be fitted, building of the loft conversion will start, completion of the external roof works and commencement of plumbing and electric works.

✓ Fourth week, complete the building, construct the loft floor, fit the roof windows, insulation, ventilation and internal stud walls.

✓ Fifth week, apply plaster and plasterboard to the room walls, create a staircase opening and fit the new staircase.

✓ Sixth week, plaster the staircase area, complete plumbing and electrical works, hang the doors, fit skirting, handrails and bannisters and start decoration.

✓ Seventh week, complete the decoration and clean and wipe out all wastes.

✓ Eight week, complete all the remaining tasks.

In recent times, when about to purchase or renovate a building that was constructed before the 1980’s, most homeowners will be particular about knowing whether or not asbestos containing materials are present. Also when a property is being checked, a lot of individuals would want to know the peak years for asbestos to be used in homes.

Modern asbestos production started in the 1800s during the time of industrial revolution, but after some regulation were made to ban some asbestos products and uses in the late 1970’s, the production witnessed a significant drop. The United States was the foremost users of asbestos according to the USGS but this lasted until the 1960’s when it was overtaken by the Soviet Union. In this article, we’ll look at the years of use for asbestos containing materials like pipe insulation, vermiculite as well as wall systems.

✓ Insulation. Asbestos insulation was commonly used in homes with lots of focus on both piping and ductwork. This was started in the year 1908 but was ended between 1915 and 1920 by Air-Cell pipe insulation.

✓ Vermiculite. This refers to a mineral that’s popular for its insulating properties and mostly used as insulation for attics. It possesses a gold to brown kind of appearance and it’s also a pebble material that shimmers in the light. According to the EPA, if this material is suspected in a home it should be assumed to contain asbestos.

✓ Wall Systems. Plaster and drywall are very common wall types that are asbestos containing. And until asbestos was banned both wall systems are said to have asbestos. For example the drywall sheets as well as it’s joint compound both features asbestos from the 1930s to the 1980s.

How To Paint Exterior Door?

The front or exterior door is an excellent way to add to your house’s visual appeal. You choose to add a little style, think outside the norm and stand out in a lot of ways.

The front door or exterior door is what your guests are going to first come in contact with and can go a long way to shape their impression about you. It’s also one of the very things that grabs attention when looking at a house from a distance. So if you’re going to paint it yourself, you should know there’s no room for errors. However, if you’re not confident enough then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. Here’s some top painting advice aimed at helping you getting the project done in a quick and easy manner.

✓ Prepare the front door. Detach the doors from the hinges ( you may decide not to completely detach the door). However, there’s the need to tape off and protect the exposed hardware or windows if you won’t be detaching the door completely before painting.

✓ Start to paint the front door. Use a brush to run along the taped area to create a frame in which the roller can easily work in. What’s more? If the exterior door is metal or fibreglass, you can create a more natural look by painting in the direction that would be on a wood door.

✓ To fill and refine your front door painting, you can simply roll the paint directly on the surface for a flat one-panel door. However, if it’s a panelled door, then you’ll have to first make use of your brush to paint the inlaid regions before using the roller on the flat, outer regions.

Soffits and fascias sit along the sides of your property, over the join between your walls and your roof. The fascia attaches to the end of your roof rafters, hiding and protecting them. The soffit fixes on the bottom of the fascia, bridging the gap between your fascia and wall. Your guttering attaches to the fascia, which also joins to the bargeboard on your gable end, if you have one.

• The glass has smashed from an impact such as a stone hitting it from a lawnmower
• You have been broken into and suspects used the window to gain entry
• The glass has blown (lost its airtightness) from constant water build-up around the seals, which is common in bathrooms
• Extreme weather or pressure changes have caused a crack

1. Including the beading (the plastic and rubber seals around the windows that can be removed), measure the width of the window frame.
2. Do the same for the height of the window, making sure you include the beading.
3. Then, take 10mm off each measurement, and you have the approximate size of your glass.