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Typically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:

✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.

✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.

✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.

✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.

✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.

✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.

✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.

✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.

✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.

However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.

Commercial roofing simply refers to any roofing work, including installation and repair, that is done to commercial buildings. This might include office roofs, shop roofs or commercial unit roofs. Every building needs a roof to keep out the rain!

Since looks aren’t usually the first priority with commercial buildings, lots of commercial properties have flat roofs. These are often made from felt, EDPM rubber or fibreglass. Felt is the cheapest commercial roofing material, while fibreglass tends to be the most expensive. In felt roofs, roofers use an adhesive to stick roofing felt onto a frame. EDPM rubber roofs have a rubber membrane that is laid down and glued onto the roof and coated with a contact adhesive, while fibreglass uses a cut glass fibre mat that is pressed on before a resin and topcoat are applied.

Not all roofing companies will offer commercial roofing services, because generally the buildings tend to be bigger. Small companies won’t have enough tradespeople to work on a roof without making it very expensive for you. Commercial buildings also tend to need more scaffolding to make it safe for the professionals to work, so some smaller roofing companies won’t offer commercial services. Make sure you check a company’s website or social media if you’re looking for commercial roofing – on the Quotatis Directory, our roofers will show whether they do commercial roofing to make your search easier.

Our gardens are often our pride and joy, so we want them to look their best. If you notice that your garden is uneven, you’ll probably want to do something about it. But how do you level your garden or lawn? A gardener can help you do this and will get the best finish, but if you want to have a go at doing it yourself there are a few steps you can take. Before you start, make sure you’ve got all the following equipment to hand:

• String line
• 4 rods & string
• Tape measure
• Flat shovel
• Water sprinkler or watering can
• A rake
• Earthmoving and compacting equipment
• Spirit level
• 2 x 4 piece of wood
• Wheelbarrow
• Protective gloves and shoes

Then, you can get ready to level your garden.

1. Mark out the area Push 4 rods into the ground around the area you want to level out in a square or rectangle. Tie your string around the rods to connect them all together, ensuring that the string stays tight. Then use your string line to any of the 4 sides to check that it’s level. You’ll then need to measure the height from the ground to the string on all four sides to check how much you would need to adjust the ground to make it level. Make sure you take note of the high and low spots and measure the difference between these spots.
2. Water the ground to soften it If you want to level your lawn, or the part of your garden that you want to level has grass on it, you’ll need to uproot the ground underneath it. To make it easier to dig and lift out the grass, sprinkle some water over the area before you begin. It’s a good idea to do this over a few days to really soften it – but make sure you don’t do it so much that it becomes too heavy and soggy.
3. Remove the grass Push your flat shovel into the ground, around 3-6cm deep, then slide the shovel horizontally to lift out the soil and the grass on top. As you repeat this process around the entire area, make sure you try to lift out the soil evenly to avoid making your levelling task even harder.
4. Add soil Fill low spots with nutrient-rich soil and spread evenly over the area with a rake. If you’re levelling out a large area of your garden, consider renting earthmoving equipment to make it easier.
5. Flatten the soil Next you’ll want to compact the soil to protect it from erosion. If you’re working on a small garden or area of your garden, simply use your feet – get stomping on that ground! You could also use a rake, but for larger gardens consider hiring a compactor. Then, leave the soil to settle for around 3 weeks before doing anything. If you’re doing this in the summer, you can water it sparingly to keep it from drying out.
6. Adjust until you’re happy It might take you a few adjustments to get the level of your garden or lawn right. Use a spirit level along a long 2 x 4 piece of wood to see whether the ground is even, then adjust by adding a little more soil or removing soil until it’s at the level you want it.

That’s it. A gardener or landscaping company will be able to level your garden or lawn perfectly, so consider getting some quotes from local companies.

There are several advantages that comes with owning an electric gate such as the ability to close your gate with little to no effort. The list goes on, but one of the major reasons of having a gate installed is the security it provides. Several homeowners are not quite sure if electric gate can offer the much-needed security for their property. If you also have the same concern, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we aim to provide you with an insight into electric gates and their security so as to help you make the best decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, if your electric gate is well boarded, they’re able to provide a level of privacy as no one will be able to see through them.  Asides this, the also represent a physical boundary – an extension of the walls or hedges that surrounds your property. With this, no one can simply walk over your drive or have any sort of access to your home or garden without having to take some sort of risk. Anyone who want to come onto your property would already be detected before ring the bell or arrive at your front door. Using audio or video intercoms, you’ll either hear or see who is at your gate and decide who gets to come in and who doesn’t.

What if someone wants to force their way onto your property by ramming your gates with a van, are electric gates strong enough to hinder them? Well, it’s very unlikely that they will as anyone applying force on swing gates that quite far from the hinges has leverage on their side. With a magnetic lock at the opening edges and ground latches, you can reinforce your gate. However, a lot of force from a vehicle with multiple horsepower multiplied greatly by the benefits of the leverage.

How To Install A Septic Tank

If you’re planning to get a new septic tank system or replace the existing one, you’d probably want to know if it’s a task you can do all by yourself especially if you happen to be a competent DIYer. However, unless you’re a heavy equipment operator, installation of a septic tank system is by no means a DIY project. And even if you have the heavy machine at your disposal and you know quite well how to use it, you’re still going to need the guidance of professionals.

You’re going to need the services of a soil expert to evaluate the site, a plumbing contractor to fit and connect pipes, an engineer to design a good system and more. You may want to be involved in all these but local health authorities requires that a licensed personnel should be in charge. In this article, however, you’ll discover the septic tank system installation process.

To install a traditional septic tank system, you’ll have to start by digging a hole for the tank following strictly the instructions provided on your approved plan by the local authorities. Do not drop the tank into the hole after digging, you’ll need to connect it to the building sewer with 3 or 4 inch waste pipe which should be at a minimum slope towards the tank. Then, extend a drain pipe from the other end of a tank to a the distribution box on the drain field.

Once completed, dig several parallel trenches of this box extension across the drain field. Put in a layer of gravel along with 3 to 4 inch perforated pipes in individual trench and connect the pipes with the distribution box and cover them once done.

With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.

Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.

External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.

Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.

To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.

If you want to test your solar panel system to see if it’s working properly or just to see what output it’s giving, you can do this using a multimeter to measure current, or amps, and voltage.

Before you start, you’ll need to find the voltage (v) and current (A) ratings of your panel. You should be able to find them on the back of the panel. You should also make sure that it’s a nice clear, sunny day to get the best readings out of your panel. You should also check that it’s safe to be up on your roof!

To measure open circuit voltage, you’ll need to make sure that your solar panel is completely disconnected from your system’s regulator and battery (if you have one). Angle the panel towards the sun, and ensure that your multimeter is set to measure volts. Measure the voltage between the positive and negative terminals by connecting the negative contact on the voltmeter to the negative on the panel and the positive contact on the voltmeter to the positive on the panel.

Then, you can move on to the short circuit current. Follow the same steps as the open circuit voltage, but ensure that your multimeter is set at 10A to start with.

Only try to test your solar panel if it’s safe to do so. If your roof isn’t accessible without scaffolding or specialist equipment, consider speaking to an MCS-registered solar company about your concerns. They may recommend that they come to service your solar panel system.

A garden room extension, also referred to as Sunroom or Solarium, is basically a stand alone garden building that’s totally detached from the home. They are typically semi-glazed building that features a tiled roof rather than glass. What would have been good examples of garden rooms extensions include conservatories, orangeries as well as pool houses, however they are constructed with the help of different materials and features which ultimately makes them different to garden rooms.

Garden room extensions are built with the major purpose of adding extra functional living spaces for a wide range of room options such as a second living room, dining room, study space, home garden office or a rehearsal space - the options are numerous. In other words if you’re looking for an additional usable space within your home or property, a garden room extension can be designed to suit your needs. So whether you need comfy sofas for evening relaxations, a sturdy office desk for work or large dining room table for dinners with family and friends, a garden room extension can be all that you need to achieve to your living space goals or just to add more value to your property.

Garden rooms extension has multiple alternatives such as a conservatory, garage conversion, loft conversion, extension and garden rooms. However, it has some great benefits over its alternatives. These benefits include, being very cost effective, hassle free, can be built within 5 to 9 days, rarely requires planning permission, does not require building regulations approval, includes a full professional installation and management without any need for subcontractors, modern and unique as well as being very versatile. Overall, if you’re looking to create an additional space in your home without having to break the bank, then garden room extensions may be your best bet.