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With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.

Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.

External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.

Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.

To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.

The periods at which noisy work is permitted do vary across the nation because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 provided Local Authorities with the authority to regulate noise from construction sites and similar areas. At the same time as these do differ across unalike councils, the average hours throughout which noisy work is tolerable is usually between 8 am and 6 pm from Monday to Friday. This is usually based on the impression of ‘noisy work’ being carried out, so labours could start earlier to prepare things for the day but then not start carrying out their work until 8 am.

On Saturday’s builders are usually allowed to work between 8 am and 1 pm, but this can differ to some extent with different councils. It does mean that workers can start at the identical time as the rest of the week, but they are generally required to finish a lot prior. On Sundays and Bank Holidays there is not as much of detailed direction on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are decent strategies, it is worth examining your Local Authority website as they can change slightly. Noisy work is commonly described as ‘noise audible at the site boundary’ and it may be the case that workers are there outside these hours but are setting up before carrying out noisy work.

Local Authorities also recognise that now and then it is unescapable to work separately to these hours, such as work on railway tracks that must be done when trains are not running. Though, local councils do have the authority to serve an announcement on individuals carrying out building or demolition works and tell them how the work should be carried out to evade a possible lawful noise irritation.

1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.

How Much Is It To Replace A Garage Roof?

The size of your garage will be the main determinant of the cost of a new garage roof. However, the present condition of your roof structure as well as the type of roof covering preferred are also huge factors. In the UK, the cost of a garage roof replacement will be within the range of £700 to £3600.

The first step a pro will take is to remove the existing roofing while also making sure that the timber structure is in a good condition. In the event whereby the timber is rotten, it will need to be replaced before the installation of a new roof. If the garage roof sheets needs a replacement, you’ll have to spend about £30 to £50 per each garage roof sheets. Individual plywood sheet has around 2.4m x 1.2m in measurement and whose price should also be included in the final cost.

The above information applies only to standard roofing for garage roofs with flat roofs being made of bitumen felt and asphalt. In recent times, this is no longer the case with several more options available. Today, EPDM and GRP fibreglass have rapidly become very popular amongst several homeowners in the country. It’s also important to note that modern roofing has greatly advanced over the years even though both EPDM garage roofs and GRP fibreglass garage roofs are way better and of more quality when compared to felt and asphalt roofs. And thanks to modern technology, modern garage roofing possesses a longer life expectancy and as result, are a lot costlier than the conventional ones.

For a medium size single garage (2.7m x 5.5m), the cost for a felt roof per square metre is between £40 to £70, while that of a fiberglass roof and an EPDM rubber roof is between £90 to £110 and £70 to £100 respectively.

Sand is a very important element in bricklaying as far as a mortar mix is concerned. Generally, the quality of the sand is the major factor determining the quality of a plaster mix or mortar mix. It’s recommended that the sand should have enough ‘fines’ (- 75 micron material) to get a good plastic mix with a water content that’s less than 350 litres/m3. Generally, a mortar mix or plaster mix is made within the range of one bag of cement to 200 to 300 litres of damp sand.

Apart from experience the next best indicator of the quality of sand is a field test. In other words, if you do not have the required training or experience in bricklaying, the best bet to determine the amount of sand for a good quality mix is by carrying out a field test. Let’s have a look!

• Get about 50kg of sand and air dry it.

• Scoop 25kg of the sand, 5 kg of cement as well as litres of water ( with 1 litre and 1.5 litres of the water in different containers).

• Mix the cement and sand to form a smooth, uniform and consistent colour.

• One after the other, mix the the sand - cement mixture in the three quantities of water. Do this until you’re able to achieve a mix that’s workable enough to use as plaster.

With that done, you should take note that if 5 litres of water is sufficient then the quality and quantity of the sand is perfect. If you’d require 6 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then both the quality and quantity of the sand is average. However, if you’d need 7 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then the quality of the sand is poor. Any requirement of water above 7 litres implies a very poor quality of sand.

When it comes to electrical works, safety is always paramount. Although a complete house rewiring service may seem quite expensive, when compared to the safety it provides, you’d realize it’s well worth it. We know all too well that human nature tends to prevail to overlook small electrical issues until it’s too late or probably gets out of hands. When this happens, not only will you have to spend more to get the issue resolved, but it may also lead to some damages to your property. Hence, the need to identify and resolve electrical deficiencies as soon as possible. In this post, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the top signs that your house needs rewiring. Let’s take a look!

• Dimming or flickering lights. This is one of the most common signs that your house needs to be rewired. When a light brightens, it means there’s too much voltage and when it dims, it implies it’s receiving too little voltage. You may be tempted to think this is a lighbulb issue, but this type of decline in power is usually as a result of a loose wiring or faulty circuits which should not be ignored.
• Regularly blown fuses. With the steady development in technology as well as electrical appliances within our houses, older style fuses that are not designed to contain this amount of electricity will end up blowing. If your fuse blows on a more regular basis, then there may be a need to upgrade them to more modern circuit breakers.
• Lightbulbs burning out in their sockets. This is usually a sign of bigger issues in your wiring which is often caused by fluctuations in voltage.
• Sparking outlets. These can be perfectly normal, but at times they can also be a clear signal of a potentially dangerous problem which should not be ignored.

Yes. Modern condensing oil boilers are ‘A’ rated and therefore as efficient as comparable gas boilers. They come with the same controls as gas central heating systems, so you can still use a thermostat to control your heating efficiently. Also, oil is more efficient as a fuel source than gas, so you will get more energy per unit of oil. Oil prices can fluctuate, however, so ensure that you find a good supplier.

Do you have a busy household or a thriving business? When you have a carpeted stairs faced with a high traffic on a regular basis, you know its going to take quite a beating over time. As a result, the carpet tends to start looking tired and worn out almost immediately especially if it isn’t designed to withstand such an heavy usage. Hence, the importance of taking an extra little time when deciding on which new stair carpet or stair runners to purchase and install so as to identify those with sturdier properties which are designed to last and also durable. This way, regardless of the amount of traffic it faces on a regular basis, it’ll always stay looking smart and healthy with good maintenance efforts. In this post, we’re going to consider the best carpet for stairs with a high foot traffic. Let’s take a look!

When looking for a good carpet for a heavy traffic stairs, you need to be able to identify hard-wearing stair carpet runners most of which will be clearly labelled as such. These carpets are designed to handle a high level of footfalls primarily because of the way they’re manufactured and materials incorporated. These materials include sisal (one of the best materials to look out for when you’re shopping for a hard-wearing stair carpet) and polypropylene which is an extremely popular material used in hard-wearing carpets due to its incredible features.

Apart from the materials incorporated, a lot of the strength and resilience also comes from the way in which the fibres are constructed and woven. The most reliable types of carpet weaves to look out for when choosing a high traffic stair carpet runner includes flatweave, wilton weave as well as needlepunch.