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Are you interested in fitting a ground source heat hump in your home? If yes, then one of the thing you’d probably like to know is whether or not the heat pump is noisy. In this article, we seek to provide you with necessary information that’ll solve these mystery.

One thing you should when it comes to heating products is that they all make some noise. However, they’re usually a lot quieter when compared to fossil fuel heating systems. Generally, a ground source heat pump can reach within the range of 40 to 60 decibels depending on the manufacturer of the product as well as it’s installation.

The noise levels of heat pumps are a major concern for several homeowners. However, the fact is when the system becomes a nuisance or becomes noisy, that is always a sign of poor planning as well as poor quality installation. This is because heat pumps, in general, are not usually noisy.

In ground source heat pumps, volume isn’t quite associated due to the lack of a fan unit. However, it remains a very common question for homeowners who intends to install a ground source heat pump to ask whether or not the type of heat pump is noisy. Just like any other heating product, there are components in the ground source heat pump that produces some noise but this is always not as much as that of an air source heat pump. This is due to the fact that the heat coming from the ground is more consistent, hence the compressor’s power capacity wouldn’t be as high. What’s more? This type of heat pump doesn’t also work at full throttle which also plays a key role in its low noise level.

How To Replace Flat Roof Fascia

Whatever makes you decide to install your flat roof fascia by yourself and not a professional company, then you must have a clear idea of what to do and do it appropriately. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to help with the task for the best results and save you some time and money. This step-by-step guide will give a clear insight on how to go about the replacement of your flat roof fascia.

The tools to be incorporated includes the fascia boards, table saw, plane, crimper, clamps, power nailer, compound saw and chalkline.

• Prepare and get all the necessary tools to complete the task before commencing as this would save you time from stopping and going back and forth looking for the next tool needed,

• Install the sheathing and board.

• Fix white fascias with at least 600mm centres ( a foiled fascia needs just 40mm centre) using a marine grade stainless steel plastic headed nails.

• Make a space of up to 10mm between the joints for possible building expansion, using super glue to secure the joints to just a side of the fascia.

• Place this directly on the fascia board’s top (if you’ll be installing ventilation) to create an air pathway.

• Take note that the type of roof to be installed will determine how you’ll have to install the fascia board. For instance, a hip roof permits you to attach the fascia board onto the roof in a quick fashion, whereas a gabled roof may need you to make markings on the board to achieve the right fit.

• Consider the depth of the fascia board as it also play a huge role in the installation of the fascia board. For instance, there’ll be additional weights on tiled roofs that will push up against the board. Therefore, if you do not get the appropriate amount of depth, it could eventually collapse.

Not necessarily. Commercial architects may charge either a fixed fee, an hourly rate, or a percentage of the building contract. They could also save you substantial amounts of money as their plans and drawings may stop issues arising later in the construction.

The roof is the place that your conservatory is most likely to get grubby, but cleaning it is easy. You shouldn’t need to use any powerful cleaners – just warm water and a mild detergent.

The best tool to use to access your conservatory roof is a telescopic brush. This will help you get into corners and high areas without needing to work from height. You can use a ladder to help you clean your conservatory roof, but you should be very careful to avoid leaning it against any glazing

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Consider investing in a telescopic cleaner with squeegee, brush and mop attachments to help you achieve a great finish on your aluminium conservatory.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

In general, a new bathroom will take 1-2 weeks to install. This will vary depending on the size of the bathroom and the range of new units. Tiling and installing underfloor heating will make this time significantly longer. Also factor in redecoration, flooring and potentional ventilation.

It’s up to you what size gravel you use for your driveway, but there are some guidelines that are worth following. If you go too small, your gravel will get displaced easily. But, if you go too big, you driveway might be quite tricky to walk on. Generally, it’s a good idea to go for a gravel size somewhere between 10-20mm.

This is usually the question that comes first when thinking about installing a home security system and reasonably so. However, it can also be very tricky to provide an accurate answer as alarms now features varying shapes and sizes. However one thing to have in mind when it comes to getting a burglar alarm is that it’s definitely better to be safe than sorry. Here, we are going to provide a clear and succinct information to help you get a good idea of how much you’d have to spend to have your house secured.

Let’s Consider the Different Types of Burglar Alarms

• Bells-only alarms

This is the most popular type which features a loud siren that is positioned at the exterior of your building and linked with varying motion sensors in strategic locations. Whenever a motion is detected by the sensors, an ear-splitting sound would be triggered. To get the basic starter kit (2-3 sensors and 1 siren) for a DIY installation, the cost ranges between £130 - £160. However for a more advanced system, the price jumps to £400 - £500.

• Dialler alarm systems

This works with different motion sensors strategically placed across the home. When triggered, it sets off the siren and also rings your mobile device. A system with two sensors and one emergency number costs between £200 - £300.

• Monitored alarm systems

This system is linked to a central call centre who alarms the authorities or private security to a violation of the protected zone. The cost for a monitored alarm system starts within the range of £500 to £600, while the monitoring services can cost within the range of £300 to £400 annually.

Other Possible Costs

• Installation

After purchase, you’ll need to decide whether or not you want your system professionally installed. Generally, the cost of getting a professional installation service costs between £150 to £200.

• Maintenance

Do you think your burglar alarm requires yearly maintenance inspections? Depending on the make and model of the system, the maintenance cost may vary. However, the prices usually starts within a range of £100 to £150.