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Can You Paint Over A Wallpaper?

According to some painting and decoration experts, painting over a wallpaper can never produce a result that’ll be as good as painting on a blank or naked wall. However in the event whereby there’s a pressing need to quickly beautify a room, it’ll be totally understandable if you don’t want to go through the hassle of the time consuming old wallpaper removal process.

Therefore, the short and simple answer to this question is yes, it’s absolutely possible to paint over a wallpaper and get a good outcome so far you don’t rush the process. To ensure your success if you want to paint over a wallpaper, there’s also the need to use the right tools and techniques. And just like any other DIY project, proper preparation before commencement is key.

If you’re going to paint over a wallpaper, many of the tools you’ll need to acquire are the standard painting and decorating products. This means that they can be easily procured at many DIY stores. To paint over a wallpaper, you’ll need a paint roller, top quality paint brushes, joint compound ( you’ll only need this in situations whereby your wallpaper is damaged or peeling), oil based primer, tape, sandpaper, paint ( can be water, solvent or oil based paints) as well as drop clothes ( for the protection of your furnitures).

As a rule of thumb, if you can easily remove the existing wallpaper, then you probably should before you start to paint the walls. However, if removing the wallpaper seems to be a pain or can significantly damage your wall, then it’ll be smart to simply paint over it. But before you proceed, you must also note that painting over the wallpaper will make it even harder to remove later in the future.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

Architects design new buildings, and alterations and extensions to existing buildings. They work with their clients to create plans for structures that meet their practical, structural, aesthetic and financial needs.

In some cases, an architect may only create the design and plans for a project. However, they’ll often stay involved in a project after this has been done to ensure its successful completion, providing project management too.

How To Plaster A Wall

In order to plaster your wall successfully, you’ll firstly need to get the appropriate tools and materials for the job in place. The tools you’ll need to have includes a trowel and bucket trowel, plasterer’s float, corner trowel, hawk board, two buckets, mixing stick or a paddle, adequate plaster, PVA , dust sheets, clean water, sandpaper, stilts or step ladder as well as a dust mask.

✓ Prepare the wall. You’d have to make sure that you lay down a dust sheet so as to protect your floor and also gather any possible spillage or debris of plaster, before you start working on the walls. Get rid of all the dirt, dust and debris as this is very important for the success of your project if you’re going to be plastering on a worn out and old wall. Also, cover the holes and cracks in the walls with a screen tape

✓ Apply PVA to the wall. This will help ensure the layer you’re using will not dry out at the same time.

✓ Mix the paster. Mix the plaster according to the instructions given in the manufacturer’s manual.

✓ Apply the plaster onto the wall. Upon cleaning of the walls and successful mixture of the plaster, the next step is to apply the mixture to the wall using the hawk board, trowels and a floating tool.

✓ Skim and smooth. After the the first coat has dried after waiting for about 30 minutes, the next step will be to wipe out the bumps and lumps using a trowel to smooth over the surface. Once this is done you can then scrape the wall with a devilling float.

✓ Apply the second coat of plaster

✓ Apply the finishing touches. This includes polishing your work by adding some water to the surface with a spray gun and using the trowel to further smoothen out the surface.

✓ Painting and wallpapering.

It can be rather hard to identify whether woodworm are energetic or whether the damages and also holes are historical, particularly if you buy a product of antique furniture with indicators of woodworm, or if you move right into a new location as well as find some indicators of woodworm. Apart from searching for as well as determining live or dead bugs the major methods of informing if woodworm are energetic are:

• Fresh cleaning or frassing under or beside the holes
• You can see light coloured timber in the holes, which have sharp edges
• Edges of wooden light beams as well as joists are breaking away to reveal fresh, light timber beneath

The hardest part of the procedure is to appropriately diagnose if activity is present or historic so to start with there are some simple indications:

• Brand-new exit openings in timbers, the shapes and size will certainly additionally identify the type of timber uninteresting beetle. The most typical, which is usually refered to as 'woodworm', is the usual furniture beetle (Anobium punctatum) as well as this leaves a rounded hole 1-2mm in size. It does depend on the type of timber however a brand-new opening is often 'intense' with a typical new wood colour where as an older opening might become dark as well as much less smooth.
• Dirt, noticeable bore dirt called 'Frass' listed below the holes is usually the simplest sign of activity as aged dirt will blow away over time. Again the shape of the dirt can additionally aid identify the kind of beetle, Deathe watch beetle dirt has little 'bun' designed pellets noticeable to the naked eye.
• Actual Beetles, on occasion you will certainly locate dead beeltes specifically on window sills as many emerge from springtime to the end of summer though its the Larva that cause one of the most harm with some kinds living and feeding for several years within the wood.
• Crumbling hardwoods, this will certainly most commonly take place on floorboards as they have a tendency to be thinner than roof lumbers or joists and also will escape to the touch.

These are the most convenient signs of activity though there are expert examinations that can be finished most are not cost effective, the dampness material of the lumbers can additionally be an indicator as to whether infestation might take place as fairly completely dry timber will certainly not be susceptible (this would need a deep probe examination).

How Long Do Bifold Doors Last?

Are you ready to make the bifold doors investment decision? There’s one thing that might you may be hesitant about - how long do bifold doors last? Well, if this is the case then you’re not alone as this happens to be one of the most frequently asked question on bifold doors by potential investors. However the lifespan of bifold doors is based on a number of influencing factors such as the manufacturer of the door, the materials used in making the bifold door as well as how properly maintained it is.

There are several types of materials which can be used in making bifold doors. These includes aluminium, uPVC as well as wood. Amongst all the options, aluminium happens to be an incredibly robust material and when produced, it can have a lifespan of about 30 to 50 years on a property with good maintenance. Aluminium boasts a perfect blend of strength and malleability which happens to be a lot less likely to warp, expand or rot when compared to wood ( timber) or uPVC bifold doors. As a result, the life expectancy an aluminium bifold doors is expected to have is up to 45 years which is considerably larger than that of the uPVC at 25 to 35 years. What’s more? Aluminium framing is designed to last a long period while also being largely resistant to corrosion because aluminium does not rust as a result of the oxide layer on its surface. The function of the oxide layer is to protect the underlying metal while also being resistant to corrosion. As a result, the aluminium door is adequately protected from rain as well as acidity which are especially more present in the coaster regions.

It must be noted that the bifold doors only require minimal maintenance, however this is quite significant in ensuring the door lasts long.

• Decking joists
• Coach screws
• Coach bolts
• Combi drill
• Socket set
• A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
• Pencil
• Decking preservative
• Sandpaper or sander

1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.

This will depend on the size of the garden and the amount of plants within it. For small gardens, fortnightly or monthly visits by a professional gardener will generally be sufficient. For larger gardens or gardens with a lot of plants, weekly visits are best. Some larger projects such as hedge cutting or tree felling may need additional one off visits.