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If you want to connect solar panels to a battery, it’s likely that it’s because you want to make sure that you don’t waste any electricity when your solar panels are generating energy but you’re not around to use it. Batteries are particularly useful for homeowners that have solar panels but are out during daylight hours; with a solar battery system, your solar panels will feed the electricity they generate into the battery for you to use when you get home.

If you want to connect your solar panels to a battery, the best thing to do is to get in touch with an MCS-registered company who can talk you through your options. There are different size batteries and the size that’s suitable for you will depend on how much electricity you plan to store and how large your solar panel system is. Some of the top brands of battery storage system include Tesla, SunPower and SolarEdge. If you want to be able to take advantage of selling electricity back to the grid through the Smart Export Guarantee (SEG), it’s worth getting an MCS-registered company to install your battery for you, as you may not be eligible for payments if you connect your solar panels to a battery yourself.

You should also consider whether your solar panel system is a ‘storage ready’ solar system. Today, most systems will be, since battery storage is becoming much more common. This means that your solar panel system will have an inverter that can easily integrate a battery. If this is the case, you should be able to purchase the battery you want and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install it.

However, it’s worth bearing in mind that electricity is extremely dangerous when handled incorrectly. If something goes wrong, you could electrocute yourself or cause a fire. If your solar panels and battery cause a fire, it’s unlikely that your home insurance company would pay out if you connect the battery yourself. That's why it’s best to ask a reputable installer with all the correct qualifications to connect your solar panels to a battery for you.

After fitting your new windows, your installer should take away and dispose of your old windows. If you want to keep them, just let your installer know before they start work. The UPVC frames are melted down and used on the unseen parts of new windows. Aluminium frames are re-smelted and wooden are broken down and used as chipboard.

Having ventilation in the roof void is a requirement for building regulations approval. Fitting ventilated soffits is the typical way that this roof ventilation is achieved. If you do not have roof ventilation, you may find that your roof void has problems with condensation or overheating.

By now, every homeower should be fully aware of the dangers of asbestos due to the fact that it can be found in a wide range of building products from the roofs and walls and right down to the floor tiles. An exposure to asbestos especially when disturbed can be life threatening as it can lead to a plethora of health issues which includes lung cancer, mesothelioma, asbestosis and lots more.

Asbestos are more dangerous when damaged or disturbed, but if they’re found in a great shape and are left undisturbed, then asbestos containing materials poses little to no threats. This dangerous material can be found in a large variety of insulation. And when compared to batt insulation, loose-fill insulation can be highly dangerous when it’s not installed in the right way. When poorly done, several particles of the asbestos can be released inside the wall or around pipes. As a result, insulation becomes a big worry that most homeowers will face down the road.

Homes that were constructed before the 1980’s commonly features steam pipes, hot water pipes as well as furnace ducts insulated with asbestos containing materials. And this is primarily because there’s no other fire retardant, thermal as well as acoustic insulator like asbestos that’s as effective and affordable as it is. However to really know if your building’s insulation is made with asbestos containing materials, you can take the following steps:

✓ Find out when your house was built. If it was constructed or renovated before the 1980’s then it’s likely to contain some asbestos materials.

✓ Although this is not advisable, but if you plan on checking the insulation by yourself, you should ensure to put on protect equipment such as goggles, gloves, masks and a safety suit.

✓ Check for insulation available in the building. The asbestos containing insulation in both batt and loose-fill types are grey-coloured so this shouldn’t be too hard to spot.

✓ Examine the pipe coverings especially the blanket type and cardboard coverings.

In the UK, gutters are normally made from uPVC. It’s a hardy plastic that won’t rot, warp or tarnish very easily, which is why it’s so popular. It’s the same material that’s used for most homes’ windows these days; they don’t have to be the standard white as they can be made into a range of colours. Expect to pay an average of £500 for the supply and installation of uPVC guttering, and more if you require scaffolding.

Other materials that are popular for gutters include copper, aluminium and cast iron. These are much more expensive – you might be looking at around £1500 or more for the supply and installation – but they give a more polished look and are often used on period properties or those in a conservation area. If you're considering these types of gutters, make sure you get a few quotes from different roofline companies so you can compare the different materials.

In the past, gutters were made from wood, asbestos concrete or stone. They were often lined with lead to stop the water from seeping through. When it was discovered that asbestos was seriously harmful, it of course stopped being used. Wood was prone to rotting, even with lead lining, and stone is heavy and expensive. So when uPVC came along, it became an affordable and easy material to use for gutters so homeowners could be confident that rainwater will be kept away from the foundations of their properties. It’s important to keep gutters clear from leaves and debris, because if they become blocked, they can make water to fall against your property’s walls, causing damp.

How To Tile A Kitchen Wall

Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

lPreparation

• Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

• Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

• Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

• Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

lMark Out The Area To Be Tiled

• Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

• Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

• Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

lInstall The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

• Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

• Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

• Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

• Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

lGrouting

• Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

• Prepare the grout

• Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

• Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

Yes. Residential architects are invaluable and will be able to manage the application process as well as offer you advice on the best way to design your building to satisfy the local authority. They can also help with ideas as well as advising on what is possible and what is not possible.

Whether you’re liable for a leaking roof in a commercial property will depend on your ownership status and any contracts. Of course, if you own a standalone commercial property, it would make it your responsibility to repair to leaking roof. But if you own an office within a building, you should check your paperwork to see whether you are responsible for some or all of a leaking roof.

If you’re a tenant in a commercial property, things get a bit more complicated. Lots of commercial leases are FRI, or Full Repairing and Insuring leases, which means that the tenant is responsible for all external and internal maintenance and insuring the building. It means that it’s vital that you read through your tenancy agreement in full before signing it and seek legal advice if you think you need it. If your lease is an FRI lease, you are liable for a leaking roof in your commercial property.

It’s important to ensure that you have a schedule of condition for the property, which will mean that you only have to restore the commercial property back to the condition that it was in when you took over. It’s also worth getting the roof inspected before you sign the lease, as if there is any damage before you sign the landlord may be responsible.

The best way to avoid having to pay for a leaking roof in a commercial property is prevention. If you are liable for repairs and maintenance, make sure you have the roof inspected regularly by a reputable company to avoid having to pay for costly repairs when disaster strikes.