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Since it’s very common to find heated floors in the bathroom, it becomes very understandable that most home and property owners are fitting a radiant floor heating system under tile flooring. If you’re thinking about how you can fit heat under tile floor, then you’ve come to the right place. However, if you lack enough confidence to pull this off, then we’d advise you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’d be considering how heating products are fitted under the most commonly heated flooring material which is tile. Let’s take a look!

1. Take a measurement of the room you wish to heat. When taking this measurement, you should leave out permanent fixtures such as tubs, toilets, floor vents and more. This information will be used to create a project sketch which includes the room dimensions
2. Test your electric floor heating rolls. To make sure that your floor heating rolls are in perfect working condition, you should use a digital ohmmeter to test it.
3. Inspect the subfloor. Clear the surface of any nails or other sharp objects which could cause damage to the heating element.
4. Install the flex roll. Simply roll out your flex roll till it gets to the opposite side of the room. Once done, you can then cut the mesh and turn 180 degrees to continue fitting in the other direction.
5. Place the sensor. If you happen to possess a floor heating thermostat that enables a floor sensor, ensure to position the sensor near the thermostat’s location and exactly between two cables, then use hot glue or weave into mesh to secure it.
6. Connect the thermostat. We’d advise you get in touch with a professional to have this done.
7. Install the tile.

Breakdowns of boilers are quite common during the winter months and are usually very expensive to repair when this occurs. According to the research carried out recently by uSwitch, repairing a boiler can cost an average of about £314 with a figure over 20 percent of homes experiencing various heating system issues last year.

To answer the question of whether or not your existing home insurance will be enough to cover the boiler breakdown, the answer is probably not. This is due to the fact that heating system faults or breakdowns is a very common occurrence and as a result of poor maintenance practices as well as a high repair cost, several insurance companies often remove it from their home insurance policies.

Generally, you’d be given an option of what is termed as “emergency home cover which is an add on or extra to your home insurance policy. Luckily, this add on is quite inexpensive and may be as little as £4 or £5 per month. Depending on your need or budget, you can also purchase the add on as a “stand alone from your current insurer or another company. However, the stand alone option is usually more expensive.

The emergency home cover normally provides coverage for the boiler repair cost and few times, the rest of the central heating system as well. Being fully aware how important a boiler can be, insurance companies usually deliver a rapid response service as suggested in the name, “emergency home cover. However, the maximum pay out for call out charges is capped at a particular amount which usually ranges from £500 and £1,000. Apart from the call out fees, the emergency cover also includes a limit on the pay out amount for future required repairs of heating systems which includes both parts labour.

The short answer is yes, you can definitely have underfloor heating with wooden floor! Now you’re probably thinking wood and heat don’t mix right? Well, that’s true but here, there’s a way around it. The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. So, how do you go about it? In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of installing underfloor heating with wooden floors. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

• Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
• Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
• Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
• Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
• Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
• Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
• Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
• Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
• Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.

In recent times, when about to purchase or renovate a building that was constructed before the 1980’s, most homeowners will be particular about knowing whether or not asbestos containing materials are present. Also when a property is being checked, a lot of individuals would want to know the peak years for asbestos to be used in homes.

Modern asbestos production started in the 1800s during the time of industrial revolution, but after some regulation were made to ban some asbestos products and uses in the late 1970’s, the production witnessed a significant drop. The United States was the foremost users of asbestos according to the USGS but this lasted until the 1960’s when it was overtaken by the Soviet Union. In this article, we’ll look at the years of use for asbestos containing materials like pipe insulation, vermiculite as well as wall systems.

✓ Insulation. Asbestos insulation was commonly used in homes with lots of focus on both piping and ductwork. This was started in the year 1908 but was ended between 1915 and 1920 by Air-Cell pipe insulation.

✓ Vermiculite. This refers to a mineral that’s popular for its insulating properties and mostly used as insulation for attics. It possesses a gold to brown kind of appearance and it’s also a pebble material that shimmers in the light. According to the EPA, if this material is suspected in a home it should be assumed to contain asbestos.

✓ Wall Systems. Plaster and drywall are very common wall types that are asbestos containing. And until asbestos was banned both wall systems are said to have asbestos. For example the drywall sheets as well as it’s joint compound both features asbestos from the 1930s to the 1980s.

How Much Do Electric Radiators Cost?

If there’s an age-long question that doesn’t seem to go away any time soon it’s how much do electric radiators cost? Although it would be perfect to offer an exact figure you can actually work with as the cost of running your heating system, but unfortunately you’ll have to consult a clairvoyant individual to get that. The question is almost synonymous with asking to know what your utility bill will be this month or the next. This is an answer that’s specific to each household, so it would be impossible to provide an answer that applies to all households in the UK. This is because there are several influencing factors that affects what the final cost of your household’s electricity bill will be. Let’s take a look at these factors!

• The size of the room you want to heat. As you would have guessed, the larger the room, the higher the amount of energy that’ll be incorporated, which means a greater electricity bill.

• The age of your house. There’s a high possibility your household ( if it’s an old one) lacks sufficient insulation which makes it less energy efficient, except you’ve already made some necessary changes.

• Your individual needs. Depending on your personal requirements, you electricity bill may be greatly influenced to be higher or lower. And the more people you have in your home, the more the energy you’re likely to consume.

• Time of the year. During the winter months, you’re likely to use a lot more electricity and heating because the weather tends to be colder.

• Your property’s exposure to natural elements. For instance a terraced home with houses on either side will be able to retain heat much longer and there less electricity and heating than a fully detached home.

More often than not, when we think about replacing our old or existing door with a new unit, we tend to get a bit creative. We think about the panel to use, but often forget about the door’s frame which is just as important. The frame is way beyond an ordinary trimming that serves as a boundary for the slabs, it also ensures the door opens with ease and also sees that heat are being locked in and security is tight. There are a variety of frame options available when fitting a new door, and putting a composite door in a uPVC frame is one. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of the great effects of composite door and uPVC frame combination and help you make informed decision about the best setup that’ll perfectly satisfy all your doorway needs and budget.

Putting a composite door in a uPVC frame or a uPVC door in a composite frame is without a doubt the most popular door/frame combinations. In fact, you’d be shocked just how well a composite door and uPVC frame complements and supports each other in either alteration. If you’re the type that likes the unmatched levels of insulation, visual appeal as well as security that’s provided by composite doors, fitting this in a UPVC frame is really one that’ll set you apart. This combination is the most loved and for a good reason. You’ll get to open your door with ease while it also remains weathertight, save some money using the usually less costly uPVC frames and ultimately, combine the strengths of both materials incorporated. What’s more? It’s an opportunity for you to make a striking impression on all your visitors.