Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Llansanffraid.

More often than not, when we think about replacing our old or existing door with a new unit, we tend to get a bit creative. We think about the panel to use, but often forget about the door’s frame which is just as important. The frame is way beyond an ordinary trimming that serves as a boundary for the slabs, it also ensures the door opens with ease and also sees that heat are being locked in and security is tight. There are a variety of frame options available when fitting a new door, and putting a composite door in a uPVC frame is one. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of the great effects of composite door and uPVC frame combination and help you make informed decision about the best setup that’ll perfectly satisfy all your doorway needs and budget.

Putting a composite door in a uPVC frame or a uPVC door in a composite frame is without a doubt the most popular door/frame combinations. In fact, you’d be shocked just how well a composite door and uPVC frame complements and supports each other in either alteration. If you’re the type that likes the unmatched levels of insulation, visual appeal as well as security that’s provided by composite doors, fitting this in a UPVC frame is really one that’ll set you apart. This combination is the most loved and for a good reason. You’ll get to open your door with ease while it also remains weathertight, save some money using the usually less costly uPVC frames and ultimately, combine the strengths of both materials incorporated. What’s more? It’s an opportunity for you to make a striking impression on all your visitors.

1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.

A tiled floor perfectly blends style with function, be it a sophisticated matte finish or a gleaming glossy sheen. Moisture and stain resistant, floor tiles represent a practical choice for a busy home and its elegance makes it even more suitable irrespective of the interior design project. What’s more? Floor tiles are generally cost effective and requires low maintenance, however, this doesn’t mean you should not show your tiled floor some love and care from time to time. If you’re wondering how to go about the maintenance of your tiled floor, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to share with you some maintenance tips to take care of your floor tiles. Let’s take a look!

• Get rid of excessive dirt on a regular basis. From mere food stains to more serious scratches, a busy domestic life can significantly shorten the lifespan of your tiled floor if care is not taken. While being easy to clean makes the maintenance quite simple, regular upkeep of the floor is quite important as loose dirt and debris can wear away your flooring’s finish over time.
• Do not ignore the grout. While the surface is stain and moisture resistant, same thing cannot be said of the grout. To keep the gout lines clean, simply make use of a soft bristle brush or a white pencil eraser.
• Try out deep cleaning your flooring. Although regular maintenance of your flooring is essential to have your floor looking clean and neat, deep cleaning is just as important to preserve the overall finish of the  floor.

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

✓ Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

✓ Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

✓ With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

✓ Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

✓ Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

✓ The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

✓ Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

✓ Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

✓ Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

Interior painters and decorators will offer a wide range of services. These range from painting and wallpapering to other decorating jobs such as fitting skirting or architrave. Some painters and decorators will be trained to plaster as well, however, you should always ask them about this and not assume they will all be able to.

If you’re considering getting an awning for the outside of your home or business, it’s vital to make sure it’s the correct size. This will help you get the right amount of shelter or shade you need, and ensure it looks great.

To get the best results, get your awning from a company who comes out to your property to measure. They’ll be experienced at doing this accurately, and will be able to add clearance distances where required. They might also be able to suggest the best designs to suit your property and needs.

With the prices of buying a house skyrocketing, many of us are tempted to building our own house. This is sometimes an excellent choice, but you will first need to understand the costs of building a house from scratch. As per a general estimate, the cost of self-build ranges between £300 per m2 to £3,000 per m2.

As you can see, this is quite a variation in price from lowest to highest. Location is a prime factor in determining the costs. Building a house in London and the South is more expensive compared to other regions. Aside from location, several other factors make up the price.

Self-manage with subcontractors

You hire professionals directly like builders and carpenters. You also buy all the materials yourself allowing you to get the best prices.

Hiring a main contractor with other subcontractors

You will first need a main contractor who will help to create the watertight structure for your house. For the rest of the work, try hiring out subcontractors. Make sure that you buy all the materials yourself to get the best price.

External cladding materials

If you are looking to install other external material other than brick, you will also need to factor in the cost for the same.

Here are some example prices:

• Render on blockwork costs around £25 per m²

• Timber cladding is around £25 per m²

• Hand¬made all-weather tiling costs around £54 per m²

• Rubble walling or flint is around £90 per m²

• Reconstituted stone costs about £48 per m²

• Natural stone is about £75 per m²

Make sure to include these costs when coming up with the estimate.

Roofing materials

Non-standard roofing materials tend to add more to the cost and therefore you will also need to account in for this factor.

Here are some examples:

Welsh slate – £60 per m²

Second-hand slates – £35 per m²

Handmade clay tiles – £65 per m²

Reed thatch – £80/m²

If you choose to add any unique material to your roofing, be sure that you remember to factor in its cost.

You shouldn’t need to maintain your solar panels much at all as long as there’s nothing piled up on top of the panels that could block out the sun. They are installed at an angle, so when it rains the water runs off them and gives them a clean. However, if this doesn’t quite cut it, you can spray them with a hose a few times a year.