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Air source heat pumps are a type of heating system that you can use to warm the air in your property. They’re a semi-renewable energy generator as, although they use electricity, they extract and use renewable heat from the air.

There are two main types of air source heat pump – air-to-water, and air-to-air. Air-to-water heat pumps are the most popular, and are best used to heat water that supplies underfloor heating systems or large radiators. Air-to-air pumps heat air, which is then dispersed round your property using fans.

Do you want a low carbon way of heating your home? Then, getting an air source heat pump is the way to go! What they do is pretty simple - they absorb the potential thermal energy present in the outside air and transmit it directly to the home or property where it’s going to be compressed and the heat transferred with the help of a number of coils. In other words, it functions by extracting heat from a cooler place and then uses it to raise the temperature inside a home or property. Being very similar to air conditioning units, the amount of heat they’re going to produce for your home or property will be dependent on the size you install. Therefore, the bigger the heat pump, the more the heat that’ll be generated.

Air source heat pumps have two main types which includes air to air and air to water. Air-to-water heat pumps works by absorbing heat from the outside air, then relays it directly into your home or property through the help of fans. In order to move the heat around your home, you’ll need a warm air circulation system. This type of air source heat pump are not eligible for the government’s Renewable Heat Incentive Payment as they can’t generate hot water. What’s more? They can function in reverse during the hot summer months.

Air-to-water heat pumps, on the other hand, operates by extracting heat from the outside air and transmitting it into the wet central heating system. Due to the fact that they’re able to generate heat that’s cooler than the one generated by a conventional gas or oil boiler, they happen to be a better fit for larger radiators or water underfloor heating.

A good way to get rid of your conservatory is to sell it. Depending on its condition you may not make much money from it, but it’s an easy and financially viable way to get your old conservatory dismantled and out of the way. If you are replacing it, the installer can easily remove this for you completely.

How to repair a hole in a flat roof depends on what material your flat roof is made from. If you have an asphalt, felt or EDPM rubber roof, the repairs are quite simple, whereas it’s a bit more tricky if you have a fibreglass flat roof. How to repair a hole in an asphalt flat roof If you’ve got a small hole in your asphalt flat roof, you might get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin. It’s best to use this as a temporary measure to tide you over until you can get in touch with a professional. If the hole is on the flashing, you can add heat-applied flashing tape to it, or use a patch of torched-on roofing felt. There are liquid systems you can use, but usually they’re only available to the trade. Repairing a hole in a felt flat roof It's a similar process to asphalt roofing if you want to repair a hole in a felt flat roof. Use a paint-on fix for a temporary solution, but the best way to repair a hole is to use a torched-on piece of roofing felt to cover the hole and make it watertight again. How to fix a hole in an EDPM rubber flat roof If the hole in a rubber flat roof is small, you may be able to get away with applying some lap sealant to the hole. Only use a small amount, as if you go for a more permanent repair later down the line all of this will need to be scraped off. You can also use a malleable piece of self-adhesive flashing – clean the area, add EDPM primer and stick the patch on from the centre outwards. Add sealant to the edges if you want to give it more water protection. How to fix pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof If you find pin holes in your fibreglass roof, it usually means there wasn’t enough resin used at installation. To repair the holes, you’ll need to sand down the entire roof back to the clear resin. Then clean the area with acetone and apply GRP roofing resin – the acetone ensures that the resin sticks. You might need two coats of resin to get rid of all the holes.

If you’re thinking about refurbishing your house or property but don’t know how to go about it, then you’ve come to the right place. In truth, not every home refurbishment works goes in exactly the same order, however it’ll do you some good to abide by a specific plan in order to avoid both unnecessary works as well as expenses. For instance, how would it feel if you have already closed walls and paint only to realize that there’s a need to include a new plumbing stack that has to go behind the wall? Not good, right? Well, this guide is designed to help you avoid such frustrating situations. Let’s have a look!

✓ Establish a plan. This involves carrying out a good assessment of what you’d like to refurbish and set the priorities like deciding where to start and making sure you have both the time and budget to complete the project.

✓ Set a budget. Establish a final amount that’ll be the threshold to your spending. It’s always good to add an additional 10% to 15% to cover unexpected costs.

✓ Hire a contractor. Carry out a research, reach out to many contractors, compare their prices, work quality as well as integrity before hiring.

✓ Talk to your insurance company. Find out if you have the amount of coverage that suits your needs from your insurance company before and after your project.

✓ Secure permits and order materials. Make sure you check with the latest regulations before commencement. Once done, you can start ordering the required materials.

✓ Start demolition. This is optional as it only applies if space is being added.

✓ Work behind the walls. This include doing all the works necessary behind the walls like plumbing, electrical, heating etc.

✓ Paint and install flooring

✓ Fit in the cabinetry

✓ Add finishing touches. This includes the last details and decorations.

This is definitely one of the questions that first comes to mind when considering to acquire a skip for either residential or commercial waste disposal purposes. The cost of a skip is dependent on so many factors but the most significant determinants would be the volume of the waste and type/size of the skip you require.

Once you are able to identify the most suitable skip size for the volume of waste or rubbish for disposal at your premises, estimating the cost would be a lot easier. Here, we’ll give you an insight into skip sizes and the amount of waste each skip type can hold at a go.

Skip Types

• Mini Skip

This is also referred to as a 4 yard skip which is the smallest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 40 and 45 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £90 to £130 for a week’s hire.

• Medium Skip

The 8 yard skip is the most common and has the capacity to hold within a range of 80 to 90 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £200 to £250 for a week’s hire.

• Large Skip

The 12 yard skip is the largest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 125 to 135 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £250 to £340 for a week’s hire outside London. However, it can be a little bit more expensive in the capital - about £350 to £390 for the same amount of time.

It must, however, be taken into account that the cost of a skip also depends on other factors such as your location, the skip hire company, the volume of waste and lots more. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

The colours available will depend on the material of the door. Timber or aluminium doors can be painted to many different RAL colours. uPVC doors are generally available in fewer colours, but they can still be matched to many existing designs. A window and door company will be able to advise what optionas are available to suit your property.

Have you been advised by a structural engineer or a surveyor that your building needs to be underpinned? Well, this might just have you wondering what underpinning really is and how long it lasts. In this post, we’re going to tell you more about underpinning to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Basically, underpinning refers to the incorporation of one of various methods to reinforce or repair the old foundations of a building or structure mostly to remedy or avoid subsidence. Now, subsidence can be caused as a result of poor soil quality, increase in the load on the foundation like adding a new storey, excavations below the building as well as inadequate foundation which is more common in older buildings. When an underpinning remedial work is carried out, there are a plethora of benefits that comes with it. It’s preserves the structural integrity of your building by strengthening it, make it a lot more attractive, increases the property’s value and makes it a lot safer for both you and your loved ones. So how long does underpinning last?

Well, many underpinning contractors will offer you a 10-year guarantee of its underpinning solutions for defects. Primarily, there are two reasons why underpinning can fail which is poor installation and fresh issues arising or unforeseen circumstances. While the first is an issue that can be avoided by employing the services of an expert contractor who possesses vast experience and knowledge in the field, the second can not be avoided. However, in the absence of the unforeseen issues, underpinning is expected to last for the natural life of the building, so far it has been expertly installed.

There are a few visible signs of damp, although it often goes undetected. However, in older or empty properties, this made become detectable through its smell. These include peeling paint and wallpaper, crumbling plaster, mould growth, black spots or spores on walls and ceilings, and rotting skirting boards and flooring.