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How To Replace Flat Roof Felt

Also referred to as tar paper, roofing felt is installed underneath the roof’s shingles to help deny water access to your home. Installing the roofing felt in overlapping layers builds a water barrier in situations whereby the weather damages or blows away the shingles. Although the application of a roofing felt on a flat roof is relatively easier and safer than working on a peaked roof, it’s advisable to take enough care and precautions. If you lack proper training and experience for this task, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save you from further headaches especially in cases whereby unfortunate errors are made. This step by step guide will give you a good insight into the flat roof felt replacement process.

• Take a measurement of the width and length of the roof.

• Calculate the square footage by multiplying the numbers.

• Multiply the square footage gotten by three (it’s advisable to install three layers of roofing felt to create a really strong weather barrier).

• Use a claw hammer to remove the existing roofing felt.

• Use utility knife to cut the new felt to fit the length of the roof.

• Place the first piece along the roof’s edge and use a hammer tacker to tack the felt in place with staples or galvanized nails and hammer.

• Put the staples or nails at every 6 inches along the side touching the roof’s edge as well as down the short sides.

• Repeat the same process for the second piece, laying it out beside the first row of felt.

• Cut a piece of felt to the appropriate length using a utility knife to begin the second layer of roofing felt, and cutting it in half, lengthwise.

• Apply construction adhesive along the first row using a trowel.

• Press the first piece for the second layer onto the adhesive. Repeat this process until the roof is covered with a second layer

• Apply construction adhesive over the second layer to install the third layer. Begin with a full piece of felt without cutting it in half.

• Overlap each piece by 2 inches until you’ve completely installed the third layer.

When it comes to electrical works, safety is always paramount. Although a complete house rewiring service may seem quite expensive, when compared to the safety it provides, you’d realize it’s well worth it. We know all too well that human nature tends to prevail to overlook small electrical issues until it’s too late or probably gets out of hands. When this happens, not only will you have to spend more to get the issue resolved, but it may also lead to some damages to your property. Hence, the need to identify and resolve electrical deficiencies as soon as possible. In this post, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the top signs that your house needs rewiring. Let’s take a look!

• Dimming or flickering lights. This is one of the most common signs that your house needs to be rewired. When a light brightens, it means there’s too much voltage and when it dims, it implies it’s receiving too little voltage. You may be tempted to think this is a lighbulb issue, but this type of decline in power is usually as a result of a loose wiring or faulty circuits which should not be ignored.
• Regularly blown fuses. With the steady development in technology as well as electrical appliances within our houses, older style fuses that are not designed to contain this amount of electricity will end up blowing. If your fuse blows on a more regular basis, then there may be a need to upgrade them to more modern circuit breakers.
• Lightbulbs burning out in their sockets. This is usually a sign of bigger issues in your wiring which is often caused by fluctuations in voltage.
• Sparking outlets. These can be perfectly normal, but at times they can also be a clear signal of a potentially dangerous problem which should not be ignored.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

Home electrics can be extremely dangerous and it’s very unwise to try and carry out repair work or maintenance yourself without the necessary knowledge and skill. Therefore we would always recommend using a Part P registered electrician at all times.

Does Home Insurance Cover Boiler Repairs?

When winter comes, your boiler is most likely to be one of the most used appliances in your home. It keeps operating for several hours to ensure your house remains warm and conducive and then during those cold evenings, it supplies the much needed hot water to guarantee a restive night. But with so much usage and many moving parts, you’d naturally expect your boiler to breakdown at some point especially if it’s 7 years old or above. So what’s the next line of action when it happens, leaving your radiators off and water cold? With the likely high boiler repair cost, it’s only logical to consider whether your boiler repairs is covered by your home insurance.

In almost all situations, the standard home insurance will not provide coverage for the cost of repairing or replacing a broken boiler. Being fully aware that boiler breakdowns are mostly caused by a lack or not so regular maintenance practices or servicing, most home insurance providers will exclude it from this from their offerings. In fact, a home insurance is more likely to provide coverage for the damage that has happened as a result of a broken appliance. For instance, the damage caused as a result of gas, oil or water leaking from a boiler are more likely to be paid for by the home insurance providers, but they’ll not pay for the repair or replacement of the broken boiler itself.

If you need our home insurance to cover your boiler repair, then you might just be able to get an extra insurance cover from your provider that includes a broken boiler repair. You can consult them to determine if this is possible as well as the cost to be paid per month. This will normally cost about £5 to £10 per month, but it gives you a peace of mind knowing you’re covered if your boiler happens to breakdown.

Different types of gardening work will need to be carried out at different times of the year. Garden maintenance is a year round job, although the amount of work will usually decrease during the winter. For larger landscaping projects, aim to have these done through autumn, winter and early spring, to give plants time to get established before summer. Be aware that poor weather over winter can slow down the work.

Moving a house can be an exciting task, but also a stressful one at the same time. For most home and property owners, one fee that’s often overlooked when its time to budget is the removal costs. Most times, the additional money you’d have to set aside for a removals company to pack and unpack your household items can come as a big surprise to many. So exactly how much can you expect to pay for removals in the UK? Let’s take a look!

Overall, the average house removal costs for a standard 3 bedroom house move based on short distance removals of about 25 miles is about £500 to about £555. This amount should cover the basic costs provided all the necessary household items and furniture have already been packed. What’s more? There’ll be some additional costs to factor in the event whereby you need packing services as well as materials to be supplied by your local removal company.

If there’s also a need for dismantles and re-assembly of some items, this will also attract some extra costs. Further more, the relocation cost will also increase if your need special attention as well as care for any of your personal items.

In addition, a long distance move from your current home will obviously be more expensive than the cost of a local move in the UK. Also, international removals are significantly more expensive again. For instance, its more reasonable that an international move to Nigeria would be a lot more expensive than the cost to move to a nearby town.

Apart from long distances, another factor that can influence the removal cost is the size of the property. For instance a four-bedroom house will need more packing material, bigger removal vans and will also be more time consuming when compared to moving out of a one-bedroom house.

No – solar thermal doesn’t generate electricity. Unlike solar PV, solar thermal panels harness the sun’s energy and convert it into heat which is then transferred into your home.

You can have evacuated tube solar thermal panels or flat plate collectors; evacuated tubes are thought to be more efficient that flat plate collectors. They both work by using the sun’s rays to heat a transfer fluid, usually made from water and a type of antifreeze, which is pumped to a heat exchanger inside a water tank in your home. The heat from the exchanger heats the water inside your tank, then when the liquid releases its heat it’s transferred back to the collectors to start the whole process again.

You’ll need to use your solar thermal panel system with a boiler, collector or immersion heater. This is so that the water can be stored and used for your hot water and heating, and also because in the UK, people generally need to rely on another source of heating in the winter. There are fewer sunlight hours in the winter months, so it’s not often possible for solar thermal panels to generate enough heat from the sun to get your water up to temperature.

Whatever the time of year it is, you might want to heat the water up further than your solar panels can manage. That’s why you’ll still need a form of traditional hot water heating, but you should see savings on your energy bills. If you’re currently using natural gas, you can expect savings of around £60 per year on your fuel bills, while if you’re using LPG it could be as high as £100 pr year