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Being smart critters, a rodent infestation of a garden can cause the owner a lot of problems. Rats are pests bringing about a wide range of health hazards. They’ll camp in your compost, eat away your fruits and vegetables, gnaw through fences, containers and planters and even spread harmful diseases to humans. The wild rats can bite or even scratch when approached and will seek shelter anywhere possible like in your greenhouses, shed and even in your home. And worse still, they reproduce quickly as a female rat can give birth to six litters annually with up to 12 pups. Therefore, if left unattended to,an unwelcome visit can soon become an infestation in next to no time.

In order to get rid of rats, you can start by thinking like one. Like any other mammal, they need food, water and shelter to survive and thrive. Removing one or all these three things can effectively help you get rid of rats in your garden. Generally, there are several ways to get rid of rats which can be natural without the use of poison and artificial, with the use of poison.

If you wish to use the natural approach, you can try using peppermint oil or laying of traps. Rats are known to hate peppermint and it’s also alleged to mask their pheromone trails. Simply soak cotton wool balls in peppermint oil and position them strategically through out the garden. The second natural approach is more of a trial and error case as rats are always very suspicious and it’s possible your traps fail to catch any unless you’re very cunning with the placement.

The most effective method is, however, the use of poison to get rid of rats. Simply mix the poison with food in small quantities and place at strategic locations throughout your garden to get rid of the rats, However, this must be done with great care.

The cheapest fence to install is, generally, a pressure-treated pine wooden fence at around £20 per linear foot. This includes the materials and labour costs. Wire fencing is technically cheaper at around £5 per foot, but it’s not a great material to use in homes as it looks unsightly and doesn’t provide any privacy.

If your solar panels are mounted on your roof and you require a ladder to reach them we would always recommend you get a professional to do the work for your own safety.

Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Can You Plaster Over Artex?

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, you can plaster over Artex. However, you must also note that plastering over Artex may not be the best choice as Artex is porous and as such, you’d have to detach the stripping so as to get a smooth and even coating. In the event whereby your ceilings or walls have Artex on them, you’ll have to smooth the Artex in order to obtain a plaster of solid coat.

✓ Preparing Artex for plastering. First and foremost, you’ll have to detach any bumps before you can plaster over the Artex. Do note that you don’t have to completely remove the Artex, all that’s needed is just enough to get a coat of plaster. Make use of a scraper to get rid of the bumps on various Artex designs like swirl and bark. Once you’re through getting rid of as much bumps as possible, there’s the need to seal the Artex due to the fact that it can absorb the moisture out of the plaster which will cut the time to get a good finish to little or nothing. You can use a PVA and water mix to do the job!

✓ The PVA mix. This is done to seal off the porous Artex in order to stop it from absorbing moisture from your plaster which can make it start to crack and crumble. To do this, simply mix half PVA and half water, then use a brush to paint the mixture over the plastering area. Once done, you can give the plastering surface about two to three coats and wait for the solution to dry off within a hour or two.

Plastering over Artex is not as hard as it seems, but if you lack the confidence to complete the task, simply contact a professional for help.

How To Make Oil Boiler More Efficient?

During the winter months when the nights get darker and colder, it’s more likely your oil gets used up a lot more quickly. This can be very worrisome as it implies having to spend more money to refill. So what exactly can be done to make your oil boiler more efficient and save you some money?

• Regular Servicing Of Your Oil Boiler

Getting your boiler serviced by a manufacturer approved engineer on an annual basis is one of the easiest and quickest ways to ensure that your oil boiler is operating at its maximum efficiency level. When a full servicing is provided for your oil boiler, checks are made to ensure that all components are functioning the way they should while also identifying the bad or worn parts that may be hindering your oil boiler from functioning in an effective manner. As a result, it helps you see to the fact that your boiler is not consuming more than necessary to make sure your oil boiler lasts longer.

• Set Your Thermostats Correctly

When you set your room thermostats and thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) the right way, you’ll be sure to get a comfortable home without having to make use of much fuel.

• Consider Smart Technology

If you decide to make use of smart technology like Nest or Hive, you can save more money when compared to their more conventional counterparts. These smart technologies incorporate highly advance intelligent systems to get more familiar with your lifestyle, habits as well as heating operations in order to ensure optimum efficiency at all times.

• Put Your Radiators To Good Use

Try as much as possible to avoid some oversights that can make your radiators consume more energy than required. Consequently, you have to keep them clean, give them space and also take care with curtains.

Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!