Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Cardiff.

Once you have your new bathroom installed, or perhaps you’re only replacing the old downlights, you’d probably want to know how to go about fitting your new bathroom downlights. If yes, then you’re not alone! This is a very common question amongst several homeowners and we wish to guide you through once and for all. However, it must be said that if you are not a competent DIYer or probably lack the confidence or skills to pull this off, then it’s advisable to hire a professional to get the best results and also save yourself some money and time.

Here are the list of the tools you’ll need to fit your bathroom downlights: Tape measure, chalk line or laser, pencil, pad saw, hand drill, hole saw and screw drivers.

✓ Measure the bathroom ceiling and mark out the central point of the light which will be where the downlights will be placed. Drill a small pilot hole here.

✓ Check above the ceiling to ensure that there’s no pipes, joists or wires in the way. It’s always a good practice to make sure that there’s sufficient room around where the downlight is to be installed in order to avoid placing it too close to a joist or any other obstacle. You should try as much as possible to maintain a 6 inch gap around the spot where the downlight is placed to make sure the fitting does not overheat.

✓ Use a hole saw or a plasterboard saw to make the cut out for the downlight. Check the downlight’s box for instruction on the size.

✓ Once you’ve been able to make a clean cut ceiling hole, pull through the wiring through the hole so that the downlight can be wired. Once done, then you can fit the downlight into the hole by holding the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole.

It's not a difficult task to replace an old toilet, as long as you can connect it to an existing branch of the soil pipe. You can cut your water usage significantly by fitting a dual flush toilet mechanism.

Step 1

Follow the manual's guidelines, assemble and insert the flush mechanism. Make sure you include the rubber sealing rings where necessary.

Step 2

Place the large rubber gasket into the flush ingang of the pan.

Step 3

Insert the  bolts through the holes in the cistern, using the rubber and large metal washers supplied.

Step 4

Lift the cistern into the pan so the connecting bolts fit through the holes. The threaded section of the flush mechanism should go through the rubber gasket on the flush entrance of the pan.

Step 5

Fit washers to the connecting bolts, and tighten the wing nuts. Make sure you fit these securely - but don't over-tighten them.

Step 6

check if there are no either pipes or cables below the fixing points. Put the toilet in place, and slide the pan outlet into the flexible connector that's attached to the soil pipe. Then drill some pilot holes into the floor at the fixing points. If it's a solid floor, you'll need to make the holes with a hammer-action drill and plug them.

Step 7

Push plastic protective inserts through the holes in the base of the pan, and insert the retaining screws through and into the floor. If the cistern has fixing holes in the back, attach it to the wall by drilling and plugging. Remember to add rubber washers before you tighten the nuts.

Step 8

Connect the supply pipe for the cold water feed, using a push-fit tap connector.

Step 9

Fit the hinge assembly to the seat, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 10

Connect the seat to the pan by securing through the holes at the back, using the screws supplied. Then adjust it to sit in the correct position.

Apart from the aesthetic benefits of modernising a bathroom suite, replacing older toilets, cracked baths, sinks and showers with modern energy and water efficient ones could save you money. Also, modern mixer taps offer more precise temperature control.

Fascias and Soffits, just like any other components of a home, do not last forever. They can become tired and worn out over time which implies that you’ll have to replace them to prevent further damage. Getting this project completed can be quite costly, but it doesn’t have to be. Fitting soffits and fascias is very simple task which will leave you with both a modern and contemporary styling which requires little maintenance and also more savings. What’s more? You don’t have to worry about repainting the fascias and soffits on an annual basis, all you need to do is a gentle wipe down of the features with a damp cloth to have them look good.

If you’re a competent DIYer and confident enough to pull off this task, then all the better. However, if otherwise, we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable contractor who can guarantee the best results for help. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your fascias and soffits.

Fascias ( a 18mm fascia board)

✓ This is designed for a direct fix without a need for a timber substrate. Simply secure them directly to the rafters with the help of 2 x 65mm a4 stainless steel fixing nails per rafter.

✓ Ensure that the rafters are level.

✓ Cut the boards back 5mm per edge to enable expansion where any white corner trims, joint trims or angle trims is needed.

✓ Secure the guttering to all third rafter.

Soffit ( 9mm soffit board)

✓ Ensure that the preservative treatment to the structural timber has dried out.

✓ Fix all utility boards of about 100mm to 605mm in width at a maximum of 60mm centres.

✓ If ventilation is needed, there are some soffits that are available in 150mm to 605mm widths and also provides the 10mm air gap needed for roof with a pitch above 15 degrees

Installing a plasterboard on your ceiling is a cool way to modernize your property. Over the past couple of decades, there has bee an increasing number of trends associated with plastering of both walls and ceilings such as rounded edges and textured plaster. However, in recent times, home and property owners are now looking to install more of sharp edges. If you’re planning to plaster your ceiling, you’d probably want to know just how much this project is going to cost. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll give you a rough estimate of ceiling plastering costs.

There are a plethora of factors the can influence the price of plastering your ceiling. These pricing components includes the following:

✓ Size. As you would have expected, the larger the job, the more the overall cost. However, the price per square metre will reduce which means that the cost of plastering a small ceiling space will cost more per square metre than the cost of plastering a larger ceiling space per square metre.

✓ Materials. We have a wide range of plasterboard available in the market. If you need a fire retardant, acoustic or other types of specialist plasterboard, you can expect to pay higher than standard plasterboards.

✓ Location. Just like many other home improvement projects, the cost of plastering ceiling varies greatly throughout the UK. Places such as London and the South East have the highest prices due to the high standard of living as well as greater demands.

In general, to plaster a ceiling (small 2 m x 2 m) - overboard and plaster will cost within the range of £200 to about £300. Also, to plaster a ceiling (large 5 m x 6 m) - overboard and plaster will cost within the range of £400 to about £600. The average plasterer’s daily rate (including material) is about £180 to £300 and ceiling plastering cost per square metre ranges between £20 to £40.

How Much Does A Septic Tank Hold?

If you’re thinking about installing a septic tank system in your home, the type as well as the size of the tank are the most common things to put into consideration before making a decision. Private sewage disposal is very common in the rural areas which are unable to access the mains sewage system. Septic tank systems that includes a soil absorption system or a drain field is the most affordable way that you can treat your household’s waste water. To get the size of your septic tank, you’ll have to determine the size of the house as well as the number of people living in it. Generally, a domestic septic tank varies largely in size usually between 750 gallons to 1250 gallons.

Septic tanks have three common types that are used in domestic construction. These includes:

✓ Concrete septic tanks

✓ Polyethylene or plastic septic tanks

✓ Fibreglass septic tanks

The most common type of septic tanks is the concrete tanks, however, they’re usually very heavy and would require a machinery to install. Plastic and fibreglass septic tanks, on the other hand, are much lighter which makes them more ideal for remote and hard to reach places.

Several influencing factors can play a key role in determining the size of the septic tank you need. These includes the home’s square footage, the number of bedrooms as well as the number of people that resides in the house. Below are rough estimates of septic tank sizes you’ll need depending on the square footage and number of bedroom.

✓ One and two bedroom homes of less than 1500 square feet will require a 750 gallon septic tank.

✓ Three bedroom homes of less than 2500 square feet will require a 1000 gallon septic tank.

✓ Four bedroom homes of less than 3500 square feet will require a 1250 gallon septic tank.

With summer fast approaching, most business owners are getting ready to battle the great heat that often comes with it. One of the most important tasks would be to make sure that the commercial HVAC system is in top condition to run efficiently and smoothly through to help lessen or cancel out the effect of the summer’s heat in the work environment. Air conditioning systems when not properly maintained can take up to 30 percent energy which is capable of sending your utility bills through the roof during the season that calls for a heavy usage. In this post, we’re going to consider some top tips you can implement to prepare your commercial unit for summer air conditioning. Let’s take a look!

• Filter cleaning and maintenance. When the filter is clogged the cooling is decrease and more energy is consumed (implying higher electricity bills) as the unit works harder to have your work environment cooled. The filter accumulate dust, dirt and other particles pretty easily which also affects the indoor air quality since they’ll get pushed out with the cool air distributed. Therefore, there’s a need to ensure that the filters are washed regularly and also changed (at least once a month during summer).
• Air flow leaks and obstructions. If the blower components aren’t properly adjusted, this can lead to a 15 percent drop in the system’s efficiency. Also, gaps and obstructions in duct work can lower air flow in the HVAC unit. Therefore, you’ll need to check the ducts and connectors for loose spots or damages, also check walls, doors and windows for cracks and leaks which can allow the outside warmth to draft in and the cool air to flow out.