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When it comes to extending a home, the rear of the house often comes to mind a lot more than the front. However, this doesn’t mean that you can’t extend the front of your house. This can be done either as part of a renovation project whereby the entire house is incorporated or it can also be done in isolation. It’s possible to extend the front of your house without the need to apply for a planning permission, however, there are a bunch of limitations you’d have to comply with if you wish to carry out with such a project. Sometimes, this may imply that extending to the front of your home is more tedious and tasking than extending your home’s rear. So exactly how far can you extend the front of your home without planning permission?

The short and simple answer to this question is 2 metres square area with a height not more than 3 metres. Generally, you do not need a planning permission to build a front porch as long as its area doesn’t go beyond 2 square metres from a public road or walkway. Also, a tiled or slated roof can be as much as 4 metres but other roofs must not go beyond 3 metres in height. If you want to extend the front of your home beyond the restrictions specified, then you’ll have to apply for a planning permission.

Extending the front of home can be quite costly, but this can be controlled by not building to the extension to the highest specification, not including an extension on kitchens or bathrooms and more.

What Is Plaster Made Of?

Plaster is one of the most commonly used materials when it comes to building construction. It’s a crucial component that’s incorporated in coating walls, ceilings as well as partitions and it hardens on drying. Plastering is one of the most ancient building materials which has taken over mud to plaster reed or sapling huts so as to serve as a protection against the elements. Here, we’re going to take a look at the multiple compositions of plaster. These components are very important due to the fact that they form a protective coating on whatever they are used on. They work to protect surfaces such as ceiling and underlying walls from scratches or any form of damage.

Plaster comprises a few materials which includes gypsum, lime or cement and all operates in a similar way. Gypsum is made of calcium sulfate dihydrate and it’s the main component of main forms of plaster, sidewalk chalk, blackboard, drywall and more. Meanwhile, lime plaster is made up of sand, water and lime ( mostly non hydraulic hydrated lime). And lastly, cement which is a mix of suitable plaster, portland cement, sand as well as water.

The plaster is usually produced as a dry powder which is mixed thoroughly with water to create a stiff but also a paste that’s workable immediately before it’s applied to the wall or ceiling.

It’s quite easy to confuse a drywall with a plaster but there are some differences. Not only is plaster a much older style of wall construction than dry wall, but it’s also a lot more expensive than installing a drywall. Plaster walls are also able to provide you with a more durable finish when compared to a drywall and it makes for a better quality finish.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d want to try out on your bathroom without some practices.  For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

1. Make Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor
   Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.
2. Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.
3. Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.
4. Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.
5. Cut The Tiles
6. Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.
7. Choose The Appropriate Adhesive
8. To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer. If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar
9. Prepare The Area
10. Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.
11. Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.
12. Space The Tiles
    Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.
13. If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.
14. Use The Right Grout
15. With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.
16. The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.
17. Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.

This is a type of loft conversion that extends your roof on the sloping side. It is a great option to go for especially where a hipped roof effectively makes the usable floor area a lot smaller which can be a tricky affair when it comes to putting in a new staircase. Here, the roof is extended from the current ridge in such a way that it effectively fills the gap between them. As a result, this turns the hip (in a hipped roof) into a gable to create space in your roof for a loft conversion - hence the name “hip to gable.

The new gable can be done in whatever way that suits both your taste as well as your property. You can make the new gable construction in woods and then tiled to match your existing roof while you can also go for other options such as brick block pebbledash or rendering. You are also free to fit in a new window into the loft conversion end so as to allow for natural light into the loft space.

A hip to gable loft conversion is mostly found on both semi detached and end terrace buildings, particularly those constructed in the 1930s. Overall, this type of loft conversion is particularly ideal for homes that features a hipped roof and with a sloping roof at the side of the property. Some detached properties can also possess a hipped roof on the side - and as such, a double hip to gable loft conversion can also be deal as it’ll create more loft space for usage. If your home fits into the bill, then you should be aware that once the project is completed, you’ll have plenty of usable space available to both you and your loved ones.

Before you start digging, you should know sewer lines are required to be buried within certain specifications and it’s your responsibility to find out what these specifications are. If you’re thinking about the appropriate depth of sewer line, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post we’re going to consider how deep a main sewer line should be buried underground.

First and foremost, you should understand that sewer lines are simply the intestinal systems of a house or property. Their primary function is to totally remove waste water and other waste matter from your drains, toilet, shower, dishwasher as well as the exterior faucets. With this in mind, we can then move to our main concern which is the sewer line depth. In a world that’s perfect, you’d be allowed to to just dig your home’s sewer line deep enough to cover it with a thin layer of sod. However, if you happen to reside in an environment with deep running cold, this inclement weather may just freeze up your waste right in the pipe due to the fact that it’s placed too close to the surface where there’s not enough warmth. This could also extend to other harsh weather conditions such as heavy wind and hurricanes which are able to tear out ground deep down and even more so, if it were to pull up trees that are close by with deep roots. Hence, the need to get the appropriate depth of sewer lines right.

Sewer lines depth can vary greatly - they can be as shallow as 12 to 30 and can be as deep as 6+ feet. This is often determined by the climate.

How To Fix A Broken Boiler

To fix any problem when it comes to home appliances, the first step is always to identify the problem while also carrying out thorough checks - a broken boiler is not an exception. Putting enough time and effort in diagnosing a problem can go a lot way to save you both time and money. So here are some of the steps you can take to fix your broken boiler before you put a call out to a licensed engineer.

✓ Check to confirm if your pilot light is on. Whenever you’re facing some issues with your boiler, this should always be the first thing you do. The pilot light being on speak volumes, if the light is off then there’s absolutely no way the flame can start the appliance’s gas supply. You should try to put it back on, if off. To do this, you simply have to follow the detailed instructions on your boiler’s manual strictly. If after following these actions to the letter and the issue remains the same, then you’d probably need the services of an a qualified engineer. Never try to fix the issue on your own.

✓ Check the pressure. The solution to the headaches might sometimes be as simple as examining your appliance’s pressure gauge. Here, the good numbers are around 1.0 or1.5, if it happens to fall below this, then you should open the boiler’s instruction manual. You can also inspect your radiator valves for any leaks. You’d have to call in a specialist to solve the issue.

✓ Check the thermostat. Here, it’s important to note that a faulty thermostat doesn’t necessarily imply a broken boiler. It may just signify that you need to replace your thermostat. Simply check to ensure that your thermostat is turned on and temperature is at the appropriate degree.

If you’re replacing your carpet with new carpet, you might be able to use your old underlay. This is dependant on how long the existing carpet has been down for and also the condition of the underlay. But if you’re getting wood, laminate or vinyl flooring it’s not suitable. It will put stress on the joints if you use underlay.