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An eave is the edge of a roof, which is why they are now and then called roof eaves. On a household's outside, eaves can stick out outside the side of the building, serving both ornamental and applied purposes. The eave of a house has come to mean the lower area of the roof that projects after the external covering, as opposite to a cornice, which is part of the entablature in Classical architecture.

Think of how a roof outspreads outside the covering, and then think about how a hard rain may roll down the roof and, on the ground, away from the structure. Centuries ago, the eavesdrop was that indentation line made around a structure when the rain fell off the edge of the roof onto the ground.

Types of Eaves

A roof can come to a conclusion in essentially three ways. A closed eave is the one which has very little or no overhang at all. An open eave has a visible overhang, projecting beyond the roof brackets. A boxed eave is surrounded with a soffit.

The Use of Eaves?

An eave can defend the siding and substance of a structure. A roof eave bulging beyond the sides permits snow and rain to fall from the roof away from the covering, to the ground. The more the "weather" gets thrown away from the household, the chances of you having a dry basement increases.

In cases of regions with a warmer climate, a large eave can help provide shade to the interior of the house. In rainy environments, the prolonged eaves of Asian architecture deliver shelter from the climate, as well as direction. In the 21st century, an eave may be an inconspicuous site for security cameras and light.

The lifetime of a solar panel depends on its quality and age. Generally, the older a solar panel gets, the less efficient it becomes. The majority of modern solar panels come with 20-30 year warranties, which means that they’ll stay at a good efficiency level for at least this long. Some panels can stay efficient for as long as 40 years, while others won’t last this long.

The most serious form of fungal decay is dry rot which occurs when the moisture levels of a timber is about 20 percent. It targets timber in buildings and feeds off the part of the wood which gives it its strength.it is able to produce moisture through the digestion of timber and as a result, does not require any source of moisture to spread. Once the dry rot is able to spread, it can severely impact and compromise the structural integrity of the house or building. If you think you may have dry rot on your building, the best solution would be to call on a professional to conduct a survey of your premises and have it treated as soon as possible if positive. If the dry rot is not identified and treated as soon as possible, you may have to remove and replace all the affected timber later on. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of treating dry rot by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• The initial treatment stage of dry rot is to identify the moisture source and have it repaired. Once done, you’ll have to ascertain the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. To achieve this, simply open up the affected area by removing the plaster and render in all directions while also removing flooring and lifting floorboards. Once done, you should be in the best position to determine the full extent of the infected timbers.
• Proceed to cutback the timbers in-situ to a minimum of 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or the strands of hyphae.
• Remove all fruiting bodies and detectible spores. Clean the wall areas to eradicate surface growth using a stiff brush if necessary.
• Replace the timber with pre-treated timber.
• Treat the new and old timber with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid and sterilise the masonry.

How long it takes to install insulation will depend on the size of your property. In general, loft and cavity wall insulation can be installed in a day or two. External wall insulation will usually take longer to install. The rep or installer will be able to advise you when quoting for the job how long this will be.

This is usually the question that comes first when thinking about installing a home security system and reasonably so. However, it can also be very tricky to provide an accurate answer as alarms now features varying shapes and sizes. However one thing to have in mind when it comes to getting a burglar alarm is that it’s definitely better to be safe than sorry. Here, we are going to provide a clear and succinct information to help you get a good idea of how much you’d have to spend to have your house secured.

Let’s Consider the Different Types of Burglar Alarms

• Bells-only alarms

This is the most popular type which features a loud siren that is positioned at the exterior of your building and linked with varying motion sensors in strategic locations. Whenever a motion is detected by the sensors, an ear-splitting sound would be triggered. To get the basic starter kit (2-3 sensors and 1 siren) for a DIY installation, the cost ranges between £130 - £160. However for a more advanced system, the price jumps to £400 - £500.

• Dialler alarm systems

This works with different motion sensors strategically placed across the home. When triggered, it sets off the siren and also rings your mobile device. A system with two sensors and one emergency number costs between £200 - £300.

• Monitored alarm systems

This system is linked to a central call centre who alarms the authorities or private security to a violation of the protected zone. The cost for a monitored alarm system starts within the range of £500 to £600, while the monitoring services can cost within the range of £300 to £400 annually.

Other Possible Costs

• Installation

After purchase, you’ll need to decide whether or not you want your system professionally installed. Generally, the cost of getting a professional installation service costs between £150 to £200.

• Maintenance

Do you think your burglar alarm requires yearly maintenance inspections? Depending on the make and model of the system, the maintenance cost may vary. However, the prices usually starts within a range of £100 to £150.

Some floor tiles are so lovely you just can’t help but wonder if it’s safe to be used on the walls as well. If you’re also thinking along the same line, you’re not alone! Several other home and property owners are busy finding answers to this particular question. Now let’s look at the possibilities.

Generally, any tile designed as a floor tile by the tile manufacturer can also be laid on the wall (vertical surfaces) as well as countertops. Due to the fact that the floors are usually subjected to greater use than the walls in terms of foot traffic, the durability required is also considerably greater. Therefore, a floor tile with Abrasion Resistance values ranging from I - V is suitable for wall installation. However, you should take note that exterior wall applications must be different from its interior counterparts and must only be incorporated on tiles that are frost resistant.

There are two other factors that must be taken into consideration before you install a floor tile on your walls which includes the weight of your tiles per m2 as well as the strength of the surface in which the tile is to be installed. If you don’t want your tiles falling off, the combined weight of the tiles with the adhesive and grout should not be more than the maximum weight required per m2 (20kg to 35kg depending on the wall substrates).

Now that you have an idea of the possibilities of installing floor tiles on walls, it must, however, be said that reverse is the case when it comes to installing walls tiles on the floor. Wall tiles are, generally, not suitable to be laid on the floor as they are mostly non-vitreous ( cannot withstand excessive impact, abrasion or thaw cycling).

If you’re thinking of adding a solar battery to your home, you might be wondering whether or not it’s going to work in a power cut. If yes, then you’re not alone as this is one of the most common questions asked when it comes to solar batteries. In this post, we aim to provide you with a detailed answer to solve this concern once and for all.

The answer to this question is, it depends. The main reason why your solar batteries will usually not work or provide your home with the much-needed back up power is as a result of the several threats it poses. You should be aware that both your solar panels and battery are connected to the main grid. When a power cut occurs, your engineers will have to operate on the grid. If the solar panels or batteries are in operation at the period there’s a high chance the engineers would be electrocuted by the electricity that’s being produced. As a result of this, solar inverters are usually designed to automatically switch off once a power cut occurs. However, it should also be noted that if your solar battery possesses backup functionality, you’ll be able to make use of your solar energy in the event of a power cut. In other words, what determines if your home battery would work in a power cut is the availability or otherwise of a backup functionality.

Furthermore, you might also wish to know if your solar panels will continue to charge the battery in a power cut. Well, this depends on the type of backup system you possess. There are some more affordable batteries that are designed to automatically release their stored energy upon the detection of a power cut. And this is mostly because the battery inverter is usually smaller than the solar inverter which allows the energy from the solar inverter to the transmitted to the battery - risking an overload. However, if otherwise, then energy can continue to be transmitted to the battery until its fully charged.

Generally, you wouldn’t need to get in touch with a quantity surveyor prior to purchasing a property, unless of course your property is a very unique and unusual one. After making a commitment to buying a property or to kick start a construction project, then you might want to start taking into consideration getting in touch with a quantity surveyor. The best time for a quantity surveyor to carry out an inspection of the property is right after settlement and just before the tenants moving in. This is to ensure that the quantity surveyors do not disturb the tenant and they also get to fully go through what you’ve purchased as well as the condition it’s in.

Quantity surveyors will help you by working with architects, accountants, engineers, building owners, builders, developers, financiers, government, insurance underwriters, loss adjusters, sub contractors as well as solicitors. What’s more? The in depth knowledge quantity surveyors possesses when it comes to construction costs enables them to carry out a number of useful tasks to help you.

Prior to construction, quantity surveyors can prepare a feasibility study, estimate to defined the project budgets, carry out an analysis to refine the budget as the design documents develop, prepare Bill of Quantities so as to help with the tender process and also to carry out a review of Builder’s tender submissions. While the construction is ongoing, they can help provide cost control services, carry out an assessment of the builder’s progress claims and also undertake an assessment of variation and delay claims. Finally, after the construction, they can assist with the determination of the final project cost, prepare the tax depreciation reports for both investors as well as property owners and also prepare Expert Witness reports to assist in the settlement of building disputes.