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A pitched roof is a type of roof that is defined to have a sloping surface that has an angle that is greater than 20 degrees. Pitched roofs offer a more classical appearance. They remain the most communal and effective answer in wet and cold weathers to guarantee all-out protection.

Eaves

In the roof, the lower part of the inclined roof which is prominent outside the external face of the wall. The chief purpose of eaves is to pour the rainwater from the roof straight on the exterior wall. It also provides protection from sunlight. Eaves are sometimes decorated to an architectural beauty.

Gable

The Three-sided higher part of the wall at the end of a ridge roof.

Flashing

A band of impermeable material, typically metal, used to eliminate water from the intersection between a roof covering and another part of the structure. Flashings are provided to stop moisture from inflowing the wall and roof through joints in copings, parapet wall, and other infiltrations through the roof plane.

Hip

The Hip is defined as the exterior angle, which is generally greater than 180 degrees, which is formed at the inclined ridge of the roof slopes.

Ridge

The ridge is defined as the horizontal intersection made by the rising roof surfaces that are inclined in opposite directions.

Purlins

Purlins are the horizontal members which are laid on the principal rafters which help to support the common rafter of a roof. This is usually done when the span is large. Purlins are made from wood or steel. The top surfaces of the purlins intend to be unvarying and plane.

Fascia

This is the wooden board that is fixed to the feet of the common rafter at eaves. The Fascia helps the lowest ends of the roof covering material to rest on it.

Rafter

One of the major structural components of a pitched roof is a rafter. The rafter generally begins for the support of the roof to the ridge or hip. The purlin is supported by equally spaced rafters used side by side.

First and foremost, the purpose of a landlord insurance is simple and pretty straightforward. It protects against risks associated with your rental property as well as activity. Most policies start out with building insurance as well as property owners’ liability insurance but you’re absolutely free to include several other covers. These covers can include tenant default or accidental damage, loss of rent and more depending on your needs. It’s important to note that varying types of landlord insurance provides coverage for different sorts of risks. For instance, building insurance provides coverage for the cost of repairing or rebuilding your property, while contents insurance provides coverage for contents if they’re damaged or stolen. However, the question is, does landlord insurance cover boiler? In this post, we’re going to shed more light into this to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, landlord insurance can definitely cover boiler break down! However, this is usually possible only if you select this option when you purchase your landlord insurance policy. With some boiler cover providers, you’ll have to include a home emergency cover to your landlord insurance so as to cover any form of boiler break down. Once this is done, if the boiler in your rental property starts to malfunction or stops functioning, a Gas Safe registered engineer would be sent to your premises to help out with the situation. With this, the repairing cost of your heating system would be covered by the insurance excluding any excess and up to the limit of your policy.

Being the most used room in a house, it’s little surprise kitchen extension are usually one of the most popular requests in the UK. They do not only open up a frequently used space in your home, but also goes a long way to add value to your property. However, to know the value that’ll added you must first determine the cost of building such an extension before moving forward. Generally, a typical kitchen extension will cost within the range of £20,000 to about £50,000 plus VAT, based on the size of your project as well as your location.

In reality, a single accurate cost of a kitchen extension will vary depending on a lot of influencing factors, one of which is the type of the extension. Let’s take a look!

✓ Rear extension. You may want to consider this type, if you do not have sufficient space for a side return. This will extend your kitchen into your garden which implies that you’re going to give up some green space to make this a reality. The average price to have this done in London will be about £30,000 or more including VAT, and about £20,000 plus VAT or more in other areas.

✓ Side return extension. This, normally, isn’t a huge add to your property, but will create a lot of space for your kitchen while also be a lot reasonable in terms of cost. This type will extend your home into an alleyway at the side of your property if any is available there. On average, the cost of the side return extension should be about £50,000 plus VAT in London and a lot less in the other regions.

If you’re about to carry out a loft conversion project, you’d probably be wondering how long it’ll take to complete the task. Well, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions when it comes to loft conversion projects, however, providing a set timeframe for completion of such projects is impossible as all loft conversions vary. There are different factors that can determine the duration of your project. These factors include, the materials to be used, the type of the proposed loft conversion, the kind of staircase you’ll like to have installed, the number of windows included, the number of rooms to be added as well as a number of other influencing factors. As a result of these variables, the milestones and timings provided are only to be taken as guidelines. If you’d really like to have a set date, you can get in touch with a professional for help.

Generally, it’ll take up to 8 weeks to complete a loft conversion project.

✓ The first week activities will include putting up scaffolding, receiving the first materials for the build and creating an opening in the roof to gain access to the loft space.

✓ In the second week, the structure of the roof will be ammended and more support added.

✓ Third week, the floor joists will be fitted, building of the loft conversion will start, completion of the external roof works and commencement of plumbing and electric works.

✓ Fourth week, complete the building, construct the loft floor, fit the roof windows, insulation, ventilation and internal stud walls.

✓ Fifth week, apply plaster and plasterboard to the room walls, create a staircase opening and fit the new staircase.

✓ Sixth week, plaster the staircase area, complete plumbing and electrical works, hang the doors, fit skirting, handrails and bannisters and start decoration.

✓ Seventh week, complete the decoration and clean and wipe out all wastes.

✓ Eight week, complete all the remaining tasks.

A leaky plumbing making some irritating sounds is not something anyone would love to live with. Whether your toilet is broken and needs to be replaced or perhaps you simply want a new modern toilet and is more visually appealing and up to date, like most DIY projects, the cost of fitting a new toilet is based on a number of factors. These factors the products or materials needed, the cost of the labour as well as the type of the toilet you’d like to install. It’s also important to note that a toilet replacement job may run the risk of extra materials being required for completion. Although a simple toilet differs in price ranging between £30 to about £100. For a cistern toilet, you should be ready to incur within the range of £100 to £300. What’s more? If a new inflow and outflow are required you should expect to incur an additional £30 for a top quality pipe. Also, pre-wall mounting models are usually more costly and under specific conditions, it may need some tiles which will also increase the costs.

Overall, the average price you should expect to incur for a professional plumber to install a toilet is within the range of £180 to £700 based on your preferred type of toilet and the need or otherwise of a pipework. Normally, most plumbers charge about £100 to £300 for each job based on the pipework that’s required. In order to minimize costs, you can also decide to sell off your existing toilet yourself as disposal prices have increased.

The main difference in price is primarily going to be the quality of the toilet that you opt for. Therefore, in order to lower your costs you can explore budget toilet options.

Home electrics can be extremely dangerous and it’s very unwise to try and carry out repair work or maintenance yourself without the necessary knowledge and skill. Therefore we would always recommend using a Part P registered electrician at all times.

How To Tile A Bathroom Wall

Tiling your bathroom walls will not only increase the visual appeal of your space, but also provide an additional layer which helps protect against potential moisture damage, moist growth and also makes the bathroom a lot easier to clean up. So if you’re are looking to tile your bathroom, it’s recommended to get in touch with a skilled professional to ensure you get the best results. However, this guide will provide you with a good insight on how to get through the process smoothly and avoid costly errors. Let’s take a look!

lPrepare The Wall’s Surface

• Make sure that the surface is clean, smooth and dry.

• If there are any dips or holes, ensure to have them patched or sanded.

• Measure the area to be tiled and shape the backer board to fit, if a new wall surface is necessary.

• Cover the new surface area with adhesive to attach the back board to the surface.

lMix The Mortar

• Firstly determine the tile layout and make a layout tool

• Install the datum

• Follow the instructions of the adhesive package as the type you’re to use depends on the wall type.

• Create a consistent and smooth paste by mixing the adhesive with water.

lInstall The Tiles

• Using a notched trowel, spread the mortar.

• Put a thin layer at the back of each tile and press it against the surface.

• Create ridges using the notched side of the trowel.

• Clear out any excess adhesive on the tile’s surface as you continue.

• Put the spacers at the joints

• Remove the datum planks when ready to install the outer edge tiles.

lApply The Grout

• Put the grout over te tiles with a grout float

• Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge

• Seal the tiles once the grout is dried

Why Do Roof Tiles Slip?

Despite being our first line of defence against the elements and covering the most valuable assets we possess, it’s shocking the reason why most roofs go unnoticed for years. However, when a damp patch suddenly appears on the ceiling or water starts to leak into our home, the condition of our roofing suddenly becomes of huge importance to homeowners.

In the UK, we get a fair share of harsh wind and heavy rainfall across the year which over time can lead to a plethora of roofing issues. One of the most obvious to identify is when roof tiles slip. If you’re also facing the same challenge, then you’ll most likely be interested in knowing the reason behind this occurrence. In this article, we’re going to take a look at some of the reasons why roof tiles slip.

Roof tiles can slip as a result of a corrosion of the nails that’s in place to secure your tiles to your roof. This happens especially during strong storms, whereby several roof tiles can be dislodged by rain and winds. If the affected tiles are just a few, then it may actually be a little issue to resolve. However, there are also times that the tiles slippage can be caused by a more serious issue. What’s more? You can also discover slipped roof tiles if the wood of your roof is corroded or weak. However, this applies a lot more to older homes than new or recent constructions. Any of the above reasons may be the main cause of your roof tiles slippage, but if you really want to know the exact cause for sure, you’ll have to call in a professional roof company to inspect your home.