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A dormer loft conversion is a type of loft conversion that’s built making use of a roof’s existing slope. In other words, it’s an existing roof’s extension which is constructed in such a way that allows for an additional floor as well as head room especially suitable for lofts lacking good amount of usable space. The dormer loft conversion is simply an addition to the existing roof looking much like a box-like build constructed onto a pitched roof as it creates walls that are vertical to the slope while also being 90 degrees to the floor.

This type of loft conversion is the most common amongst homeowners in the UK mainly because it represents a cost effective means through which you can add an additional usable space to your home or property. The structure extends for the slope of the existing roof and can easily be altered to suit various tastes or styles. Furthermore, if you’re looking for a type of loft conversion that aids to foster reduced disruption to work, then dormer loft conversion is also your best bet. This is due to the fact that the structure is built from a scaffolding made outside a home.

There are different types of dormer loft conversion and the one which will best suit your property will depend on the property type, be it detached, semi detached or terraced as well as the existing roof shape and size. The dormer loft conversion is a popular choice for a lot of homeowners for a variety of reasons. Let’s have a look!

✓ It’s very cost effective

✓ The dormer loft conversion does not require planning permission so far it complies with certain conditions and limitations

✓ It adds an extra headspace as well as floor space.

The bigger the ground source heat pump, the better right? Wrong! And you’ll definitely be sorry to make such a huge mistake. When planning to install a heat pump, determining the size of the ground source heat pump is not as direct and straightforward as many homeowners would think. Here, you’ve got only a small margin for error. When the pump is too small, the heat pump will make use of the backup heater too often and in the event whereby the heat pump is too big, it’s going to short cycle. Both situations are preferably avoided as they’ll both leave you with an expensive and inefficient system.

To get the accurate size of a heat pump, there’s usually the need to hire the services of an expert and licensed heat pump installer who possesses a top notch design calculation software. In reality, the majority of inefficient systems are caused by a lack or poor understanding of the suitable design software.

There are many factors that can influence the calculation of a home’s heat pumps size. These includes

✓ Radiators and underfloor heating sizes

✓ Insulation, property fabric as well as heat loss

✓ The number of rooms in the property

✓ The types of rooms and their uses.

✓ The desired indoor temperature for varying rooms

✓ Seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Generally, a bigger house will require a bigger ground source heat pump. With an eye on the age of the property, heat loss as well as the types of the rooms, a house of about 100 square metre can require up to 4kW ground source heat pump. And for a house that’s about 200 square metre, the ground source heat pump also doubles to 8kW.

If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:

• Construction materials

• Flooring

• Light fittings

• Kitchen units and worktops

• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials

To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.

Commercial architects specialise in designing buildings for business or public use, rather than residential, like offices, shops and schools.

Commercial architects will typically have expert knowledge of the unique needs that different types of commercial building have. This includes safety and design requirements for bigger buildings that typically contain high numbers of people.

One of the most popular choices for roofing materials are roof slates. There is a number of advantages that a roof slate has, hey can be aesthetically pleasing, they can also increase the potential selling value of the house and many more. Slate is a sturdy and resilient material that delivers waterproofing physical characteristics to a pitched roof. Unlike other roof materials which absorb water slates do not. Therefore, slate is the most resistant towards freezing and water damage.

Find out the pitch of your roof

Before beginning with the fitting procedure, you need to figure out the pitch of your roof. The roof pitch commands how much overlap is essential with each slate. This has been made a lot easier than the early days with the advancement of technology.

Find out the required overlap

Once you’ve found out the exact pitch of your roof accurately, take a look at the slate producer’s description. Each manufacturer will propose the obligatory overlap in order to form a firm and safe slate roof.

Roll out the roof membrane

Firstly, guarantee your joists or trusses are clean of any sheards or old nails that could harm the membrane. You will now have to roll the chosen roofing membrane along the roof trusses. It is always wise to start from one of the bottom corners and keep rolling it along to the other corner.

Secure the roof membrane

Once the membrane has been moved out, use thump nails to protect one edge. You will now have to pull the membrane taut and carefully fix it into position. Do this before adding any nails across the membrane at points of intersection with the trusses for extra stability.

Batten placement

This is done to find the proper assignment of the battens. For this, you will need two full-sized slates along with an under eaves slate. Carefully position the battens on the top of the roof on the top of the overlay. Make sure not to fix them down since it will be easier to move them around and make any adjustments.

Do I Need Planning Permission For A Wooden Conservatory?

The addition of a conservatory to your home is classified as a “permitted development and according to the 2008 legislation, you do not need to apply for a planning permission to add a wooden conservatory to your home so far you are within some particular limits. These regulations are summarized below:

• All extensions must not be more than one storey and the height must be lower or equal to the existing building’s roof or 4m at the maximum.

• There are multiple limitations on the extent you can extend from your existing property depending on a few factors such as the type of your house as well as the location of the extension, be it at the rear or side of the building.

• If your wooden conservatory is to be constructed at the rear, it must not go beyond 3 metres from the attached house’s original property and 4 metres in a detached house. Also, the wooden conservatory mustn’t go beyond half the space around the property.

• The wooden conservatory must not go beyond half the size of the original house. Similar conditions govern that of the space around the existing building.

• Extensions that are not covered by the permitting rights are the ones constructed in front of the property or those directly facing the main street or road.

• Listed Building content may be needed in the event whereby there’s a Listed Building proposed work.

This is just a brief of the conditions that applies, however, the fact remains most property owners can have a wooden conservatory installed without having to apply for planning permission. It is advisable to consult your local planning office before you construct an extension. In certain cases, all work may require planning permission if there’s a permitted development rights removal. Click here to learn more about wooden conservatories

As you would have guessed, patio doors are exactly what the name suggests. They mainly act as a means by which you can access your patio from inside your house. As a result, they’re mostly fitted at the rear of your home which leads out to the garden and ultimately, the patio. In recent times, it’s mostly unlikely to see patio doors installed in homes without patios or homes with deckings instead. Generally, patio doors feature large floor to ceiling windows that are able to offer a wide open view of your garden as well as patio. In short, these characteristics are what mainly makes them unique from other normal exterior doors.

There are different types of patio doors which you can choose from and all with their own unique installation costs.

• Sliding Doors

Due to their space saving qualities, this type of sliding door are a popular choice amongst homeowners. As the name suggests, they basically slide across panels rather than opening in or out. This style also comprises the most significant windows which gives you a wider and clearer view of your garden while also allowing more natural light into the house.

• French Doors

Offering a standard design with two different panels with each able to swing wide open on its own, the French door is a conventional style door popular amongst traditionalists. French doors are generally stylish and very energy efficient, however they tend to consume more space within your home. It comes with several designs and a variety of colours to choose from.

• Bifold Doors

Bifold doors are the ideal choice if you want a more modern style for your home. These doors almost folds itself whether open or closed. Generally, they move along a track similar to sliding doors, but each panel folds when open. Here, you’re still offered the floor to ceiling wide open windows which further makes the overall effect even more special.

A clogged sewer line, when left untreated, can lead to a wide range of serious problems. If the issues arises from a toilet or kitchen sink pipe, then it’s highly likely that it just might be a clogged drain. However, if every flush results in a build up of sewage in your home, then the problem is likely to be in the main sewer line. If you’re looking for ways in which you can unclog your main sewer line without a snake, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to show you just how to go about it. Let’s take a look!

1. Boiling water. If you want a quick and easy fix of your blocked sewer pipe, then this is for you. Simply pour some quantity of boiling water into the drain. In several cases, this will cause the particles causing the blockage to dissolve or loosen without having to resort to more drastic measures. However, it’s advisable to only use this method on either metal or ceramic pipes. Use hot and not boiling water on PVC pipes to prevent heat from loosing its joints.
2. DIY Natural Cleaner. To use this method, simple create a DIY cleaner by incorporating bicarb soda (baking soda) and white vinegar. Pour the baking soda into the sewer pipe and follow it with the vinegar. Once done, cover the sewer pipe to ensure the mixture does not bubble out of the pipe. In some cases, you may need to repeat the process a number of times to make sure that the blockage is properly removed. After completion, simply flush your sewer pipes down with hot water.
3. Plunger. This is a very common option that home owners use in clearing their blocked drains. Firstly, cover all overflow spouts before you start to plunge to get a strong seal. The strong up and down pressure produced by the plunger can go a long way to clear any blockages to ensure your pipes flow uninterruptedly again.