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Apart from the cost of hiring a skip, the area in which to place the large item is another major concern for individuals looking to hire a skip. So if you’re wondering whether you can place your hired skip on the road, there are four legal requirements that applies and must be complied with for your protection in the situation whereby a third party accident takes place. Deciding to overlook these conditions can lead to a fine or forceful removal of the skip by the local council.

Here are the compulsory legal requirements that must be fully complied with:

• Get A Permit

The local council gives out a permit for skips to be placed on the road. This permit must be acquired and the cost may vary depending on the local council in your area.

• Illuminate The Skip

Since the skip is to be placed on the road, then it’ll only make sense to have it illuminated at night or in low lighting situations for safety of all road users. According to the law, lights must be positioned at each end of the skip to be easily spotted.

• Use Cones

According to the law, a minimum of two (2) cones must be placed on the skip’s approach side for the protection of all road users.

• Comply With The Skip Requirements

You can’t place just any skip you like on the road. By the law, there are certain conditions that must be met by the skip itself before placement. It must be painted with the yellow colour on the sides, have both the owner’s name and phone number clearly written on it and must also possess a BS AU152:1970 complying red and yellow fluorescent reflective marking which is compulsory to be acquired within two (2) working days upon filling.

Click here to learn more about skips.

Commercial roofing simply refers to any roofing work, including installation and repair, that is done to commercial buildings. This might include office roofs, shop roofs or commercial unit roofs. Every building needs a roof to keep out the rain!

Since looks aren’t usually the first priority with commercial buildings, lots of commercial properties have flat roofs. These are often made from felt, EDPM rubber or fibreglass. Felt is the cheapest commercial roofing material, while fibreglass tends to be the most expensive. In felt roofs, roofers use an adhesive to stick roofing felt onto a frame. EDPM rubber roofs have a rubber membrane that is laid down and glued onto the roof and coated with a contact adhesive, while fibreglass uses a cut glass fibre mat that is pressed on before a resin and topcoat are applied.

Not all roofing companies will offer commercial roofing services, because generally the buildings tend to be bigger. Small companies won’t have enough tradespeople to work on a roof without making it very expensive for you. Commercial buildings also tend to need more scaffolding to make it safe for the professionals to work, so some smaller roofing companies won’t offer commercial services. Make sure you check a company’s website or social media if you’re looking for commercial roofing – on the Quotatis Directory, our roofers will show whether they do commercial roofing to make your search easier.

Speaking to the owners of the neighbouring properties is recommended. If you are still unsure, you may need to check the original deeds to the property. Generally the rule is that you are responsible for the fence at the right hand side of your property.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

One of the essential factors that makes a home truly a home is the convenience and comfort it provides us. As a result, we usually have a long to do list comprising things that come together to make sure our home is comfortable with ambient temperature at the very top of the scale of preference. After all, no matter how greatly designed your furniture and home decor is, it probably would amount for nothing if the temperature is either too hot or too cold. Some of the most common ways we incorporate to make the temperature a lot more conducive and warm during the winter months is by installing air conditioning system or through top notch insulation materials, but the fact still remains that a lot of heat would escape through the doors and windows. And that’s exactly the use of double glazing. So how exactly does double glazing work?

Double glazing basically works by preventing the escape of air and trapping it between two panes of glass. It’s the trapped air which serves as an insulation barrier which delivers 3 major functions. First and foremost, it stops the escape of heat through the window as the barrier created insulates the room from varying air temperatures at both sides of the glazing unit. The second major function is the double glazing works to keep down noise pollution coming from outside. While the third major function of double glazing I the fact that it helps minimize condensation which usually occurs on the single glazed windows’ inside as the cold outside air works to cool the warm air inside the house. When you install a double glazing window, the insulation barrier generated will work to stop the air temperature transmission which ultimately helps prevent the occurrence of condensation.

If you’re considering converting a barn or buying one, you shouldn’t need to worry about it being cold. This is because building regulations dictate that when you convert a barn, you need to insulate it to meet specific standards. However, it’s worth considering its heating system and ceiling heights carefully – some barn conversions are likely to take longer and be more expensive to heat up than others.

How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall

Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!

lAttach Furring Strips

• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.

• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer

• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.

• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.

• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.

• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.

lApply Plasterboard

• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.

• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.

• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.

• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.

• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.

• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.

• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.

Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.

Artex was originally made using white asbestos to make it stronger. However, this stopped in the mid-1980s, and the use of asbestos was banned in the UK in 1999, due to its extreme health risks. So, any artex you buy today won’t contain asbestos.

If you have an artex ceiling or wall that was created before 1999, it may have asbestos in it. This won’t be a health hazard if you leave it undisturbed, so it’s not necessary to remove it. However, if you want to get rid of or alter your artex ceiling or wall, you must get it tested to check if it has asbestos in or not first. If it does, you’ll need to hire a qualified professional to work on it.