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Are Solid Roof Conservatories Any Good?

If your old old glazed conservatory roof is starting to yield to the elements, perhaps it’s time to starting putting your money where your roof is. In recent times, most homeowners in the UK are now opting for the solid, tiled conservatory roofing alternative and for a good reason. If you’re also wondering if solid conservatories are of any good, then you’ve come to the right place! In the article, we’re going to discuss whether or not solid roof conservatories are a solid worthwhile investment and reasons for the stand.

Firstly, let’s look at what wrong with the normal conservatory roofs. Despite the fact that these are the cheaper alternative, it must however be said that they’re lacking in terms of insulation. A bad insulation can only mean discomfort all year round - winter will be cold and draughty and summer, stuffy and baking.

Solid roof conservatories, on the other hand, are made from special material that resembles traditional roof tiles but will only have a fraction of the weight. They’re able to deliver a much better insulation than a glazed roof which implies comfort all year round. What’s more? They’re very easy and quick to install, and as a result of their lightweight, you can easily transport them and use them for an underlying structure. The solid roof conservatories are a worthwhile investment which also provides the following advantages:

✓ It helps you save money. If they actually cost more, how can they save money? The solid roof conservatories provides many benefits but the most obvious one is improved insulation. And when a space is properly insulated, your heating bills will be significantly reduced. Hence, saving you some money.

✓ It also improves the safety of both you and your loved ones.

There are a wide range of ways in which having an answer to this question can help home and property owners. For instance, this can help you predict the cost before fitting a new unit. However, regardless of your purpose, this guide has been created to give you an idea of the energy usage that’s associated with different types of air conditioners. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it should be said that there’s no straightforward answer to this question as there a number of variables that can affect the energy efficiency of one’s air conditioning unit. As a result, the calculations for your personal space may vary from the estimates you’ll see on the internet. For example, the type of air conditioner you choose to install will be a key determinant of your system’s energy usage.

• On the average, a central air conditioning system incorporates within the range of 3000 and 3500 watts per hour during the summer months. However, if you happen to operate the “fan only mode of your central air conditioning unit, the energy usage will most likely drop to about 750 watts per hour.
• For a mid sized portable air conditioning unit, you can expect the system to consume an average of 2900 watts per hour. However, large units as you would have expected would exceed the energy usage of central air conditioning units, this can be up to 4100 watts per hour.
• For a mid sized window air conditioning unit, this will consume about 900 watts per hour. While you can expect the smaller unit to use about 500 watts per hour and the larger ones to consume about 1440 watts per hour.

If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.

So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.

• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.

• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.

• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).

• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.

• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.

• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.

• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.

Our gardens are often our pride and joy, so we want them to look their best. If you notice that your garden is uneven, you’ll probably want to do something about it. But how do you level your garden or lawn? A gardener can help you do this and will get the best finish, but if you want to have a go at doing it yourself there are a few steps you can take. Before you start, make sure you’ve got all the following equipment to hand:

• String line
• 4 rods & string
• Tape measure
• Flat shovel
• Water sprinkler or watering can
• A rake
• Earthmoving and compacting equipment
• Spirit level
• 2 x 4 piece of wood
• Wheelbarrow
• Protective gloves and shoes

Then, you can get ready to level your garden.

1. Mark out the area Push 4 rods into the ground around the area you want to level out in a square or rectangle. Tie your string around the rods to connect them all together, ensuring that the string stays tight. Then use your string line to any of the 4 sides to check that it’s level. You’ll then need to measure the height from the ground to the string on all four sides to check how much you would need to adjust the ground to make it level. Make sure you take note of the high and low spots and measure the difference between these spots.
2. Water the ground to soften it If you want to level your lawn, or the part of your garden that you want to level has grass on it, you’ll need to uproot the ground underneath it. To make it easier to dig and lift out the grass, sprinkle some water over the area before you begin. It’s a good idea to do this over a few days to really soften it – but make sure you don’t do it so much that it becomes too heavy and soggy.
3. Remove the grass Push your flat shovel into the ground, around 3-6cm deep, then slide the shovel horizontally to lift out the soil and the grass on top. As you repeat this process around the entire area, make sure you try to lift out the soil evenly to avoid making your levelling task even harder.
4. Add soil Fill low spots with nutrient-rich soil and spread evenly over the area with a rake. If you’re levelling out a large area of your garden, consider renting earthmoving equipment to make it easier.
5. Flatten the soil Next you’ll want to compact the soil to protect it from erosion. If you’re working on a small garden or area of your garden, simply use your feet – get stomping on that ground! You could also use a rake, but for larger gardens consider hiring a compactor. Then, leave the soil to settle for around 3 weeks before doing anything. If you’re doing this in the summer, you can water it sparingly to keep it from drying out.
6. Adjust until you’re happy It might take you a few adjustments to get the level of your garden or lawn right. Use a spirit level along a long 2 x 4 piece of wood to see whether the ground is even, then adjust by adding a little more soil or removing soil until it’s at the level you want it.

That’s it. A gardener or landscaping company will be able to level your garden or lawn perfectly, so consider getting some quotes from local companies.

So do you wish to take advantage of the heat generated by the ground to warm up your home by getting a ground source heating pump? If yes, then you’d also probably be wondering how much a ground source heat pump is going to cost so you can set a budget and start planning.

Installing and running ground source heat pump can cost between the range of £600 to £700 to run on an annual basis, meanwhile it can cost you within a range of £13,000 to £19,000 to have installed. However, you should take note that these prices can be by varying influencing factors such as the size of the installation as well as any other extra work that may needed to complete the job.

When it comes to estimating the time it takes to recover the initial cost of the system via energy savings, nothing is certain as this can be very hard to determine or predict. The main reason for this is due to the fact that it’s dependent on the efficiency of your heating system, the type of system you’re replacing ( whether or not you qualify for Renewable Heat Incentive -RHI payments ), the efficiency of your home’s insulation, how efficiently the system’s controls are being used and how the heat generated from the ground source heat pump would be put to use. However, to figure out how much you’ll save, the type of fuel replacing is perhaps the most essential. For a four bedroom detached house, you can save between a range of £1,200 to £1,300 for a LPG fuel replaced, £1,400 to £1,500 for an electricity fuel replaced, £600 to £700 for an oil fuel replaced and finally, £200 to £300 for a solid fuel replaced.

In general, a new bathroom will take 1-2 weeks to install. This will vary depending on the size of the bathroom and the range of new units. Tiling and installing underfloor heating will make this time significantly longer. Also factor in redecoration, flooring and potentional ventilation.

If you’re planning to construct a kitchen diner extension, to help you set a budget and start planning you must first have a cost estimate that’ll complete the entire project. If not, there’s a probability that you may have to spend more than would have been necessary or probably break the bank to have the project done. In truth, there’s no single and short answer to this question as the cost of a kitchen diner is largely dependent of several variables. In this article, we’re going to give a good insight into kitchen diner extension cost so as to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

On the average, a kitchen diner extension will cost within the range of £25,000 to about £45,000, however if you happen to reside in London, you can expect the cost to be a lot more than that - closer to £60,000. And due to the fact that there happens to be a plethora of options out there, any decision to make be it on the size, tradesman, flooring, finishes or type of the kitchen diner extension, will have a considerable impact on the overall cost of the project. For instance, a basic kitchen diner extension cost can be within the range of £12,000 to about £15,000., while a high end kitchen diner extension can reach a whooping price between £80,000 to about £100,000.

The total cost of your kitchen diner project will rely heavily of the size as well as the quality of the finishes. For example, a kitchen diner extension that’s small and basic is likely to cost about £1,300 to £1,500 per square metre. However, if you’re going for higher quality finishes, you can expect to pay within the range of £1,900 to about £3,000 per square metre.

Air source heat pumps can be a really efficient way to generate heat. Although they require electricity to run, they generate much more heat than an electric heater that uses the same amount.

Air source heat pumps provide heat at a lower temperature than most other types of space heating. This means they’re most efficient when they’re left on for longer periods of time, and distribute heat through wet heating systems with large surface areas, like underfloor heating or big radiators.

Air source heat pumps can be much more efficient than oil and LPG boilers, and older electric heating systems. However, they’re only usually the most efficient option if your property is very well insulated.