Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Nuneaton.

Birthed in the late 1700s, the shaker kitchen has stood the test of time and remains incredibly popular till date. It was discovered by a religious community had a strong belief in honesty as well as simplicity and said every object inside a home must have a practical use. The shaker cabinet features a square frame and a recessed panel profile. With the use of mid-rails, the panel can be divided into multiple sections. They were originally made from pine, cherry or maple wood, but they’re now manufactured from better quality woods like oak. Basically, the essence of a shaker kitchen is the timber’s quality as well as the fundamental functionality of the cabinet.

The style of shaker cabinet kitchens is usually an uncluttered and organized approach to design. This classic, timeless and uncomplicated design complements both country and classic style kitchen and also a more modern environments. They tend to create a detailed or more minimal appearance by using plain or bevelled recessed panels. The colour schemes, on the other hand, are somewhat muted to maintain an elegant and simple design - a hand painted finish which adds a sophisticated feel to the cabinet kitchen. A very common addition to shaker cabinet kitchens are kitchen islands which enhances the space’s functionality.

Generally, modern shaker kitchens are available in a wide array of colours such as white, grey, blue, wood grain and more. This way, you get to find the most suitable colour for your kitchen. You get to choose from a large selection of classic colour palette which enables you to achieve a customized kitchen that complements your home perfectly well.

1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.

There are several benefits that can be derived from insulating your garage door. Not only can it reduce your energy bills and protect your garage’s content from elements, but can also go a long way to increase the return on your property’s value, reduce noise, increase the garage door’s strength and deliver a more convenient garage and home. Insulating your garage is a task you can actually take on by yourself. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you leave it for a reliable professional who can ensure the project is done right, the first time - saving you both time and money. This guide will give you a good insight on how you can go about the project.

To insulate your garage, you’ll need a fibreglass insulation, garage door insulation, expanding foam, drywall, gloves and long sleeves, wood, sharp utility knife as well as a staple gun and staples. Now let’s take a look at the garage door insulation process!

lClear The Walls

• Remove the drywall (if present)

• Clean out the dirt and stud cavities.

• Wipe out any chemicals in the garage like gasoline.

lIdentify Gaps & Cracks In The Wall

• Shake your expanding foam vigorously for about a minute.

• Attach the straw to the can and use it to spray the wall openings.

• Fill the gaps until its 50% full

• Leave the foam to fill the openings completely in about 5 to 15 minutes. It should be hardened or completely cured within 6 to 8 hours.

lInstall Fibreglass Insulation

• Staple the insulation’s paper face to the side of the stud and not the face.

• Place a piece of wwod on the insulation’s top to act as a guide to properly cut the insulation to size.

• Cut the excess insulation with a utility knife.

• Tuck in the insulation to make for easier stapling.

• Staple the insulation down to the stud’s side.

lUse Drywall To Cover The Insulation

• Screw and glue the drywall to the stud.

• Do not leave the insulation’s paper exposed.

As a home or property owner, you’re generally allowed to build next to your neighbour’s fence as long as it’s on your own side of the property. With that in mind, there are certain laws that regulate how close a fence can be built to buildings on the same lot or neighbouring lots. In addition, there are also local bylaws that provide limitations on the placements as well as height of fences so as to address safety hazards. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into how close you can build to your neighbour. Let’s take a look!

In general, if the fence is in your boundary then you’re allowed to build a 2-metre high brick or wooden fence or wall. However, this may differ depending on your location in the UK. As a result, you may want to reach out to your municipality’s building department in order to determine what these rules and limitations are in your area. In the events whereby there are no such restrictions but you’re still concerned, you can try informing your neighbour what your concerns are. However, if they’re not receptive there are some steps you can take to ensure your plans go as smoothly as possible. These steps include the following:

• Ensure to leave sufficient space for both the posts and footings
• Stagger your fence posts in order to make sure you’re not digging your neighbour’s
• Consider using concrete posts as they’re much stronger and will last a lot longer
• Use kickers or plinths for raised gardens and flower beds
• Make use of concrete plinths as they won’t rot over time like a wooden fence.

How Can I Get My Oil Boiler Repaired?

Did your oil boiler just broke down and you’re considering your repair options? Well, you’ve come to the right place! Whenever your oil boiler breaks down, you have two options - repair it yourself or get in touch with a reliable professional. If you lack proper training or experience when it comes to fixing of oil boilers, we’d recommend that you rather hire the services of a trustworthy oil boiler engineer who can guarantee the best results while also saving you time and money that could result from possible costly errors.

However the issue is, not all oil boiler repair services are created equal. The words “expert and “professional are now so cheap that almost, if not all oil boiler repair companies online today make use of those words to qualify themselves. However, when several of them are done delivering their oil boiler repair services you’ll have no other choice than to start questioning their claimed status. In order to separate the boys from the men very early on, a little caution and some research is all that’s needed to know the most reliable company to approach.

To get a good repair company, the first step would be to make sure the company is fully accredited with a professional certification scheme so as to be sure that they’re actually qualified to deliver the service.

Another step you can take is by requesting personal recommendations from family and friends. For a company to be referred by several homeowners in the local area then it must be doing something that’s worth the money invested.

You can as well make use of the internet to get a reliable oil boiler repair company. You can start by visiting the website of the company that manufactured you appliance to identify any recommended repair companies. Go through the companies’ testimonials but do not rely too much on them because in several cases they may not be authentic.

Ad hoc visits from your engineer to fix small issues with your heating system may actually seem cheaper and a lot more affordable, however when a boiler is ripe enough for a change these small issues are always never ending. Over some period of time, these small issues will inevitably get worse and the idea of “mend and make do will be an absolutely false economy. The best course of action in this sort of event is to find a replacement boiler to install as soon as possible. In this article, we’re going to give you some hints that’ll show you when your boiler needs to be replaced. Now let’s take a look!

✓ Insufficient hot water. Here, you’ll have to check the size of your hot water cylinder. It’s crucial to make sure that your boiler is rightly sized to power your heating as well as hot water circuit in line with your demands. You should always seek the advice of a heating expert who can recommend whether to fix or replace the boiler.

✓ Strange noises. It’s normal for components of the boiler to become worn or damaged over time. Replacing the particular component that’s causing the knocking or rattling may seem cost effective at first but more often than not, the noises usually signal a bigger issue which is likely to build up over time. Hence, it’ll be a lot more logical to replace the boiler itself.

✓ Regular repair of your boiler. It’s essential to have your heating system serviced by a Gas Safe engineer on an annual basis. However, when you have to call them more often than once a year for your yearly maintenance, it may be a wise decision to consider getting a replacement.

✓ Other events whereby you may need a new boiler includes when you can’t get the right temperature in your room, when the radiators don’t heat up as they should, when your boiler leaks and if your boiler still has a pilot light.

Fitting a wall hung toilet in your home or property bring about a plethora of benefits. Not only are they a feat of modern washroom design, but they’re also able to offer a wealth of practical benefits. Given the fact that the cistern and pipework are all going to be concealed within a duct system, the areas that’ll be exposed is significantly reduced. This, ultimately, protects them from accidental damage and tampering, and also leaves a flush, easy to clean surface which goes a long way to improve the hygiene in your washroom.

Fitting a wall hung toilet can be a tricky and time consuming task especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, it’s advisable to hire the services of a plumber who can guarantee the best results for help. So how do you fit a wall hung toilet?

• Complete the 1st fix plumbing works. This should be done before the installation of the IPS panels and cubicles.
• Fit the stainless steel frame to the wall. High Pressure Laminate and solid grade Laminate IPS panels usually comes with pre-clipped metal DUCT set framing. Simply unclip the panels and number them on the back. Fix Unistrut to the back wall of where the new IPS DUCT will be positioned. Once done, you can then fit the stainless steel framework and fix the frame with M10 bolts to where it makes contact with the wall and floor.
• Wall hung pan support frame. This involves bolting the frame into the floor and back wall of the newly created void
• Lining up your toilet. Make sure that your toilet pan are marked out even and spaced before hanging it to enable cubicle enclosures that’ll be fitted later on.
• Cisterns, flush kits and cut outs. This invloves cutting out holes on the solid grade laminate IPS panels to allow for you push butoon or sensor flush control, waste outlet, flush cone and fixing rods. Once done, clip back the IPS panels to the stainless steel DUCT set frame.
• Second fixing your wall hung toilet pan and controls.

When it comes to conservatory air conditioning, a huge mistake you’d not like to make is to purchase and install a wrong sized HVAC system. When that happens, not only will you be left unsatisfied, but you’d also end up incurring much more expenses than necessary. If you go for an AC unit that’s too small, it won’t be powerful enough to cool your conservatory as you would like. However, when you go ahead to select an oversized AC unit, your conservatory would be cooled relatively quick but will leave the air in the structure with excess humidity and consume more electricity as it’s going to cycle on and off which will ultimately cost you more money. In other words, it’s always a smart decision to take your time to calculate the right air conditioner size for your conservatory before you make a purchase decision. So how exactly can you go about the determination of the appropriate HVAC unit size for your conservatory? Let’s take a look!

• Take the measurement of the conservatory’s square footage using a tape measure. If the space isn’t rectangular or square in shape, simply divide the conservatory in section comprising both squares and triangles which you can measure.
• Calculate the conservatory’s square footage. For a square or rectangle, simply multiply the length by the width. However if your space is in another shape, you can determine the square footage of the triangular sections by multiplying 0.5 by length and width, and the sum each of the sections.
• Determine the cooling capacity required for the space in question which is measured in British Terminal Units (BTUs)/hour. For more information to determine the BTUs needed depending on your conservatory size, simply visit the United States Department for Energy Star.