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This is usually the question that comes first when thinking about installing a home security system and reasonably so. However, it can also be very tricky to provide an accurate answer as alarms now features varying shapes and sizes. However one thing to have in mind when it comes to getting a burglar alarm is that it’s definitely better to be safe than sorry. Here, we are going to provide a clear and succinct information to help you get a good idea of how much you’d have to spend to have your house secured.

Let’s Consider the Different Types of Burglar Alarms

• Bells-only alarms

This is the most popular type which features a loud siren that is positioned at the exterior of your building and linked with varying motion sensors in strategic locations. Whenever a motion is detected by the sensors, an ear-splitting sound would be triggered. To get the basic starter kit (2-3 sensors and 1 siren) for a DIY installation, the cost ranges between £130 - £160. However for a more advanced system, the price jumps to £400 - £500.

• Dialler alarm systems

This works with different motion sensors strategically placed across the home. When triggered, it sets off the siren and also rings your mobile device. A system with two sensors and one emergency number costs between £200 - £300.

• Monitored alarm systems

This system is linked to a central call centre who alarms the authorities or private security to a violation of the protected zone. The cost for a monitored alarm system starts within the range of £500 to £600, while the monitoring services can cost within the range of £300 to £400 annually.

Other Possible Costs

• Installation

After purchase, you’ll need to decide whether or not you want your system professionally installed. Generally, the cost of getting a professional installation service costs between £150 to £200.

• Maintenance

Do you think your burglar alarm requires yearly maintenance inspections? Depending on the make and model of the system, the maintenance cost may vary. However, the prices usually starts within a range of £100 to £150.

• Where in the country you live
• What colour you choose
• What pattern you choose
• Whether you choose a standard or a higher-quality concrete

If you’re planning to get a stair lift to be fitted in your home or property, one of the first things you’ll have to consider is whether your staircase is straight or curved as this would be the primary determinant of the stairlift type you’d go for. If you happen to have a curved staircase, you’d need to purchase a curved stairlift as only this can be fitted. Once you’ve identified the type of stair lift you need, then the next step is to determine the price to purchase and install such unit. In this post, we’re going to give you an idea of curved stairlift prices in order to help you make the best informed decisions possible. Let’s take a look!

Unfortunately, a quick and simple answer can’t be provided to this question as there are so many factors that influences the price of a curved stairlift. The bespoke nature of installing the necessary equipment is the main reason why the amount of new curved stairlifts greatly varies in the UK as well as the amount and complexity of the work required. For instance, if you purchase a curved stair lift with an intermediate landing, you’ll have to customize the track of the stair lift to fit your stairs which will make it a lot more expensive than ones without an intermediate landing.

With these in mind, providing an upfront and accurate estimate of a curved stairlift cost would be hard. As a result, this question can only be answered accurately taking into account all relevant factors by an expert after which they pay you a home visit. They’ll take into account whether  any existing fixtures and fitting will have to be removed or perhaps there’s a need for a custom feature to be installed and lots more.

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

If you live in the UK, you’d know by now that no matter what’s happening in the world around us, nothing is going to stop the heat from getting in. And that’s exactly more reason why a well functioning cooling system is more of a necessity than a luxury. Hence, we’ve put together this list to help you avoid common air conditioning mistakes this summer. Let’s take a look!

• Not changing the filter. In the summer when the heat turns up there’s a huge need to change the air filters on a regular basis ( at least once a month). This is due to the fact that your air conditioning system works extra hard and runs all the time during the warmer months. What’s more? If you happen to have pets, a large family or live with an individual who suffers from asthma or allergies, it becomes a lot more important to change your air filters. Plus, a dirty filter is capable of increasing your energy cost within the range of 5 to 15 percent on a monthly basis.
• Not having the right size. When it comes to air conditioning, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. You simply have to purchase and install the right size for your property which is chiefly determined by the type of the dwelling, the home’s size and other factors.
• Ignoring red flags. Calling in a technician isn’t always the most convenient thing to do especially when life gets a bit busier. However, when you choose to ignore warning signs that something is wrong with your HVAC system, you risk a total breakdown of the unit. What happens is the problem becomes an even more serious issue which will be very costly to repair or at times, replaced.

Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!

• Clear out all clutter. This involves taking out all the rubbish and clutter from the loft. In order to work effectively, you’ll need a totally clear and empty loft space.
• Ensure that there’s sufficient insulation. The importance of a good ventilation cannot be overstated. Poor ventilation will result in forming of condensation and this condensation can make the roof timbers rot and compromise the structural integrity of the entire roof. If there are no roof windows which is the easiest way to provide a loft ventilation, the next best option would be to follow the loft floor along to the point where the roof comes down to meet it. There should be a gap at this point, also referred to as the eaves, between the outside wall and the underside of the roof.
• Measure your loft area. Take a measurement of the loft space in order to calculate the amount of insulation as well as the type you need. If you’re not sure, always get more that it’s required as skimming on the amount you use will only back fire in form of increased energy costs
• Check for water pipes.

To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.

One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.