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With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.

An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.

In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.

With your finger probably hovering round the ‘order now’ button, one thing often comes to mind, what size of skip do you actually need? Being fully aware that there’s a huge array of skips sizes and hiring the appropriate size can make a whole world of difference when it comes to cost, efforts must be made to ensure you determine the right skip size before clicking on that ‘order now’ button.

To give you a better idea of skip sizes and the type of project that they are best suited to, we have decided to provide this simple breakdown that’ll make your decision process a breeze - quick and easy.

• 4 Yard Skips ( 3 cubic metres )

The 4 yard skip is best suited to small domestic projects like home or garden clean or clear outs, bathroom or kitchen refurbishments and the likes, due to its relatively small size. It has a capacity to carry about 30 bin bags at a go.

• 6 Yard Skips ( 6.5 cubic metres)

Do you want a skip for domestic purposes or for small commercial projects?if yes, then you should definitely give the 6 yard skip a shot. It has a capacity to hold up to 60 bin bags.

• 8 Yard Skips ( 6 cubic metres)

This skip size is best suited to large domestic tasks or light commercial projects. It has a capacity to hold up to 60 to 80 bags effortlessly.

• 10 Yard Skips ( 7.65 cubic metres)

With a skip size this big, both large residential and commercial projects can be handled with relative ease. Not only does it have the capacity to hold up to 80 to 100 bin bags, but also comes with an enclosed lid option, if you need an extra security for your property.

• 12 Yard Skips ( 9.18 cubic metres)

This skip size is best suited to both large residential projects and building sites. It has a capacity to hold up to 100 to 120 bin bags, and just like the 10 yard skips, it comes with an enclosed lid option for an extra security.

Click here to learn more about skips

It may be shocking a whole lot of people would not be able to point out fascias and soffits on a building despite the fact that they’re an essential part of the roof. To give you an idea, they’re simply used to cover the roof beams’ ends that comes out of the wall from underneath of the roof. The board that runs vertically just below the roofline is the fascia board, which is also the long length of UPVC. Therefore if you look at the gutters located in the front of house, the board behind is called the fascia board. However, soffits runs horizontally from behind the gutters to the wall of a building, so if you walk close to a house and look up, you’ll identify the soffits. They’re done to cover the gaps between the wall house and the gutters. The main function of both soffit and fascia is to divert water away from your roof as well as walls.

Fascias and soffits were usually made of wood before UPVC came along. And as a result, they only require little maintenance, no more warping, painting or cracks unlike the wooden ones. However they also can’t last an eternity, so when the time comes and you need to replace your soffit and fascia, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’s going to cost.

Unfortunately, there’s no way to calculate an accurate cost for fascias and soffits as there are too many variables to put into consideration. These includes the type of fascia and soffit you choose as well as the size of your property. However the average cost to replace a three bed semi-detached house’s fascias and soffits is within the range of £1200 to £1500 or even more if you’re staying in London or in a larger detached building.

If you’re planning to get an electric vehicle, the next thing that naturally comes to mind is getting a good charger with it. As a result, this is one of the most common questions asked when it comes to electric vehicles. We’ve put together this list of some great home ev chargers to help you make the best informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

• Charge Point Wi-Fi Enabled Level 2 EV Charger. If what you need is a faster charge for your car due to the high frequency of usage of the electric vehicle, then this charger might just be the best option for you. It’s claimed to charge electric vehicle batteries six times faster than a standard 120 volt home system. What’s more? The mobile application will inform you about the amount of charge your battery has regardless of your location. This feature can be of great benefit especially when you’re trying to determine whether to put in an additional hour at work or heat straight home.
• Juice Box Pro 40 Level 2 EV Charger. This is a level 2 charger which features a web based charging control so as to allow you control the charging parts of your vehicle from anywhere, be it in the comfort of your home or office without having to go to the garage or parking lot.
• Siemens VersiCharge VC30GRYU. This is an easy-to-use plug and play installation that comes with a mounting bracket if you happen to own a NEMA 50 receptacle. It boasts a charging time that’s 4 times faster than level 1 electric vehicle chargers and possess a charge delay feature or 2, 4, 6 or 8 hours.

Air source heat pumps work by absorbing heat from the outside air and transferring it inside to heat up your property.

An air source heat pump has an outdoor unit containing a refrigerant. This absorbs heat from the air and passes into a compressor, where the temperature is increased. The heat then transfers either into water, which feeds into your wet heating system, or into air, which is dispersed around your property.

Air source heat pumps need electricity to run, but this is to power the compressor rather than directly generate heat.

What Is The Difference Between A Conservatory And An Orangery?

If you’re looking to build an extension for your home, one of the first things that comes to mind is the type of structure that would best suit your property. When it comes to glass extensions there are two major varieties which includes the traditional conservatory and the orangery, but there are usually a lot of confusion over the differences of these two varieties. With the growth in popularity of glazed extensions, the differences between the two structures are becoming more and more thin. However, the main difference between a conservatory and an orangery is the number of glass incorporated. Conservatories are fully glazed structures featuring a low brick base wall, meanwhile orangeries are grand brick structures with with glazed roofs. But as a result of innovations of over the years in glazing, the difference has changed a bit.

Here are some of the major differences between a conservatory and an orangery.

✓ Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

✓ Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

✓ Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

✓ An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

How Much Does A Loft Room Cost

In the event whereby you happen to run out of space in your home and extending sideways or moving out isn’t even a considerable option, the next best solution is to look upwards - the loft. The loft can be converted into a room that can used to satisfy varying purposes, be it a storage room, bedroom, home office, spare bathroom and more. There are a number of loft conversion styles you can go for including a room in loft conversion, dormer style conversion, mansard conversion, or a hip-to-gable conversion. Regardless of your choice, each of the types will not only give you new rooms to enjoy but also add value to your home. However, before getting started, it’s crucial to have an idea of the loft conversion cost to help you prepare a budget and begin planning. Here, you’ll discover the most likely loft room cost for each conversion style you opt for.

• Room In Loft Conversion

This is only suitable for some specific home, but it’s however the most affordable option of the lots. This loft conversion style will cost within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 (prices can be higher in regions where tradesmen are higher in demand such as London and the south east).

• Dormer Loft Conversion

These are relatively simple and straightforward to include in your home. The cost ranges between £31,000 to £58,000 depending on the conversion’s size and other factors.

• Hip To Gable Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is more complex than the aforementioned ones, hence they’re usually more costly to complete. The price ranges between £42,000 to £65,000.

• Mansard Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is the most complex of the lot and includes a complete overhaul of your loft. The price ranges between £45,000 to £70,000.

• Bungalow Loft Conversion

Any of the main styles above can be done to a bungalow if the planning requirements are fully complied with and if the property is suitable. The price ranges between £30,000 to £70,000.

Can You Tile Over Floor Tiles?

Are you about to tackle a refurbishment or renovation project? If yes, then you might be worried about the removal of your old tiles before installing the new ones. Being fully aware that this process can be time and money consuming, it can only make sense to consider whether you can tile on existing tiles. The answer is yes, however, there are a few details you must take into account when embarking on this cost-effective journey. Here’s our advice:

lSelect The New Tiles

• Take into consideration the surface behind the tiles and the weight it’ll be able to withstand.

• For plasterboard, the surface can withstand about 30kg to 32kg per m2 (28.5kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 3.5kg of adhesive and grout).

• For skimmed plasterboard, the surface can hold about 18kg to 20kg per m2 ( 16kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 4kg of adhesive and grout )

• Consider the existing tiles, if heavy enough, then your choice for the new tiles should very light.

lPrepare Old Tiles

• Confirm that the old tiles are well glued to the substrate.

• Check that the tiles are level. If not, use a grinder to flatten out any humps.

• Remove the sealer for the old tiles, if any.

• Clear out all dust and dirt.

lLay New Tiles

• Spread a layer of flexible adhesive.

• Lay the new tiles

lFinish The Project

• Fill the joints with an appropriate tile grout.

• Seal the edges with a sealant.

It’s as simple as that! However, it must be said that if you’re lacking the appropriate training or experience to pull this off, then you probably would not want the first trial on your prized asset. For a top quality job and to avoid unnecessary costs, you can reach out to a tiling professional for help.