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If you’re about to get a new bath installed in your home or property, then its only wise to carry out a research to determine the cost to complete such a project. In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, we’ve created this post gives you the price range of the purchase as well as installation of a new bath. Let’s take a look!

There are a number of factors that can influence the total installation cost of a bath, however the main ones include the price of the bath and the installation cost. These two components are higher for steel baths, freestanding bath and whirlpool bath when compared to shower baths and corner baths. In general, it can take within the range of £390 to £5500 to purchase ans install a new bath. Depending on the type, below are the rice range for different type of baths:

• Shower bath. This is the most popular and costs within the range of £180 to £2,275 depending on the brand, material, warranty and other factors.
• Corner baths. These can cost anywhere within the range of £213 to £1,007.
• Steel baths. These can cost anywhere within the range of £287 to £3,360
• Freestanding bath. These can cost anywhere within the range of £489 to £4,315
• Whirlpool bath. These can cost anywhere within the range of £185 to £1,061

And while its possible to get a quick evaluation of the estimated costs when you’re planning to install a new bath, the end figure can vary. Most professional bath installer will charge anywhere between £110 to £500 depend on the type of the bath as well as how complex and intricate the task at hand is.

Freeview is only available through a TV aerial. You can’t access Freeview using the internet, so you’ll need to invest in a TV aerial if you haven’t got one already.

An electric range cooker should always be installed by a registered electrician. They will be aware of wiring regulations, what sockets are needed and make sure that your cooker is installed safely and correctly. make sure you book one before your new cooker id delivered!

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.

If you’re about to start your house extension project and wondering how long it’ll take to complete, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions that’s asked by homeowners in the UK and across the globe. However, there’s no single precise answer for this as there are multiple factors that’ll affect the length of time it’ll take to complete your home extension. These factors include the size of the construction work as well as whether you’re planning to live in the house after completion or otherwise.

For a single extension, the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension is normally up to 3 months. So let’s break this down:

As you would have expected, the first step to be taken is the preparation of the site. You start by digging out the footing and preparing the foundation which should take about 2 weeks. This is then followed by the damp course installation as well as the fitting of any drains needed around the extension which will also take a further 2 weeks.

The 5th week will be for the construction of the external walls as well as putting the blockwork in place for the provision of the cavity wall insulation. A further 2 weeks after this, will be dedicated to the installation of the roof structure and the internal walls.

It’s at this junction that you’ll call on your weather proof installer to fit in your uPVC windows and doors. Once done, the gas fitters and electricians will have to be on site to connect power to your new extension building. Subsequently, this will be followed by internal wall plastering as well as breaking through your main house. Once the plaster is dried, decorations completed and all the required furniture and units installed, the extension is ready for use.

In general, you won’t need planning permission to install soundproofing. If you are installing soundproofing against a shared wall, you will usually need to follow the rules and restrictions set out in the Party Wall Act. In listed buildings and conservation areas, there may be extra restrictions on soundproofing.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

If you’re not an expert floor installer who would take wall tile installation as merely being a vertical floor, you are advised to be very cautious when tackling the project. The installation of wall tiles follow some set of rules which you’d better not break if you really wish to protect your investment. And worst of all, a wall tile done wrong is a lifetime penalty of having to look at it. So how can you get it right? Well, probably by reaching out to a wall tile installation professional for a good quality solution that’ll save you time, money and effort. However, we’ve put together this guide to help give you an insight of how it works and also to help you avoid some unnecessary expenses. Let’s have a look!

1. Hang a batten board
2. Start your rows of tiles or bottom-most course with a batten board which works to prevent spillage of tiles.
3. Position the batten board at 3/4 of the tiles’ height. Ensure not to start at the floor.
4. Form A Pyramid Shape With The Tiles
5. If you’ve reached the bottom row of tile, then arrange the tile in a pyramid shape. To achieve this, you’d have to install the tiles one through four as instructed. Each following row will be draped over the pyramid.
6. Examine The Floor For Level & Walls For Plumb
7. If your floor level or plumb is off by a maximum of a half-inch over the course of 8 feet, add extra baseboards and trim to cover up the problem.
8. The Least Size Of Tiles To Be Used Is Half-Wide
9. Ensure that no “silvers (tiles that are lower than half the width of the tile in question) are incorporated in the project.