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Roofing is one of the most significant portions of your household. Not only does it protect the inhabitants from the elements, but it also plays a vital role in the architectural appeal. When people reflect of roofing, they consider various types of tile for the job.

Metal Tiles

When we talk of metal roofs, most of the people think of roofs made of metal panels which are joined together by joints or raised seams. This is often not the case as there are several numbers of obtainable metal roofing products.

Ceramic Tiles

Another popular choice of roofing material is ceramic. Clay tiles are incombustible and fairly sturdy, necessitating scarcer repairs or substitutions than asphalt roofs.

Concrete Tiles

For those that like the look of ceramic tiles, as well as their fire resistance, this may not be the choice, but those who want something a little tougher and less susceptible to cracking when having work done on the roof, there are the best tiles.

Bituminous Tiles

For those that want a lightweight, supple tile that’s easier to fit, there’s the bituminous tile. These types of tiles are made from cellulose fibre or using fibreglass allowing them to be flexible.

Polymer-Sand Tiles

A new-fangled substitute for ceramic tiles is the polymer-sand tile. Created from a combination of sand bound together with polymers, these are very rigid, sturdy tiles are shaped in a mould.

Copper Tile

Copper roofs can be a great choice for many due to their long lifespan. Copper tiles have the ability to last over a century before needing replacement.

Composite Tile

Another newer roofing tile is the composite. This is a multi-layered tile that is made using metal, acrylic and stone granules.

Stone Tiles

This is one of the oldest forms of roofing tiles that you can get out there. It is also one of the longest-lasting tiles on the market as well, with some roofs lasting well over 100 years.

Gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving can all be permeable. However, some types of asphalt and concrete are impermeable. This is why it’s important to be precise about what material you want for your driveway. If you want a permeable driveway, you should also make sure that your sub-base is also permeable.

Fibreglass, or GRP, flat roofs are very durable and should last you years, but over time they can become brittle and you might see some cracks or holes forming. Luckily, you can repair a fibreglass flat roof and it doesn’t have to be too difficult. Cracks in a fibreglass flat roof If you notice long cracks in your fibreglass roof, you can often use a fibreglass crack sealant. Simply clean the area, squeeze the sealant into the crack, then smooth it off. If you want it to look neater, you could coat the entire roof with a restorative coating which will make it look new again. Hole in a fibreglass roof If you notice a hole in your fibreglass flat roof, you’ll want to get this repaired as soon as possible to avoid any rainwater getting into your home. There are lots of fibreglass roof hole repair kits on the market, both online and in DIY stores, so you shouldn’t have trouble picking one up. They usually contain a mouldable UV cured patch that you can stick onto the hole. It will harden and become instantly weatherproof, so is the perfect emergency repair solution. Fixing pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof Unfortunately, if you find pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof it’s often because the installer didn’t use enough resin during the fibreglassing process. Luckily, if you can’t get back in touch with the installer or you only notice after a few years, you can fix this yourself. Sand down the roof back to the clear resin layer. Clean the entire roof with acetone and reapply some GRP roofing resin. Ensure that all the pinholes are filled – you might need two coats.

Not always is the answer, unfortunately many of the products sold for household use by untrained professionals may not get rid of all the fleas in your home. If some fleas are left they will reproduce and you will end up with a flea infestation again.

The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. If you’re interested in learning how to fit underfloor heating under wooden floor, then you’ve come to the right place! In this step by step guide, we’re going to take you through the process and providing you with all the necessary details at each step of the way. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

1. Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
2. Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
3. Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
4. Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
5. Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
6. Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
7. Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
8. Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
9. Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

If your artex ceiling is looking tired or you just fancy a change, you can try plastering over your artex. You have two options when it comes to plastering over your artex: plasterboard or skimming.

Covering your ceiling with plasterboard is a good option if you suspect the artex may contain asbestos. If done carefully, it doesn’t involve disturbing the artex, reducing the risk of asbestos exposure.

You also have the option to skim over your ceiling. The first steps to this involve removing loose and flaking parts, cutting off stipples and sanding your ceiling down. So, if there’s a chance your artex ceiling may contain asbestos, this isn’t the right solution for you. However, if you’re sure there’s no asbestos in your ceiling, then sanding down and skimming over your ceiling can be a great way to create an attractive result.

It’s worth noting that both putting up plasterboard and skimming plaster can be difficult jobs. Although possible to DIY, you’re likely to get much better results if you hire a professional.

How To Tile A Bathroom Floor

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d not want to try out on your bathroom with some practices. For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

Bathroom Floor Tiling Procedures

lMake Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor

• Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.

• Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.

• Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.

• Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.

lCut The Tiles

• Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.

lChoose The Appropriate Adhesive

• To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer.

• If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar

lPrepare The Area

• Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.

• Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.

lSpace The Tiles

• Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.

• If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.

lUse The Right Grout

• With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.

• The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.

• Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.