Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Otley.

Soffit is a word gotten from two languages - French and Latin, whereby the root word implies to “form as a ceiling in French, while it means to “to fix underneath in Latin. Basically, soffit is a portion of the ceiling that has been constructed lower than the area that surrounds it. And even though they aren’t that much popular in recent times, they happen to be a common feature in kitchens of older homes in the UK. At times, a soffit can occupy the whole room or area in a home.

Homeowners across the globe make use of this feature mostly as a decorative element in the room , however, there are also times in which they may be required for various purposes. These purposes include using soffits to conceal plumbing pipes or, heating or cooling ducts, which is often the case when sofits are constructed at the lower levels of homes. They’re also often incorporated in bathrooms or kitchens as soffits house light fixtures. For instance, recessed light fixtures fitted over kitchen or bathroom sinks are mostly fitted into a soffit. What’s more? Soffit can also be required in a room because of the home’s structure as the feature can be used to hide a structural beam.

If you happen to own an older home and you’d like to remove an existing soffit, the first step is to ensure that its safe to carry out such plan. You should firstly check for any electrical lines, ductwork, lighting or structural problems that may exist prior to the commencement of the project. If you’re not sure or confident enough to pull this off, then it’s advisable to consult a professional contractor before you proceed.

There are a few trusted companies in the UK that make solar panels. While there are other solar thermal panels out there that are made by Chinese and American companies, we’ll focus on the brands with a longstanding presence in the UK since these are the panels MCS-registered solar companies are likely to recommend to you.

Viessmann, Worcester Bosch, Solar UK and Dimplex make some of the best solar thermal panels in the UK. Dimplex and Viessmann offer both flat plate and evacuated tube solar panels, while Solar UK only offers evacuated tubes. Worcester Bosch’s Greenskies range are all flat plate collectors. Viessmann’s panels come with a 5-year warranty, while Worcester Bosch and Dimplex offer extensive 10-year warranties. However, Solar UK offer a comprehensive 25-year warranty and guarantee that the panels will deliver the same level of performance for 25 years!

We’d recommend choosing evacuated tube solar thermal panels because they are the most efficient. While there won’t be much difference between evacuated tubes and flat plates in the summer, in the winter evacuated tubes are much better at taking heat from the sun than flat plates. Since our winters are long and cold with few daylight hours, we think it makes sense to go with evacuated tubes. However, if your priority is looks over maximising efficiency, you might want to choose flat plate collectors since they sit flat on the roof and look more like solar PV panels, whereas the evacuated tubes will stick out.

Whilst uPVC is the UK’s favourite because it’s cheap to manufacture and has a number of qualities, there are also options available including aluminium and hardwood. Both are popular for various reasons.Aluminium, as a metal, is the strongest and most durable material available for conservatories. On top of this it won’t rust, warp or crack. Hardwood offers a more traditional appeal and whilst it requires high maintenance levels, is perfect for conservation areas and listed buildings.

How Much Does A Loft Room Cost

In the event whereby you happen to run out of space in your home and extending sideways or moving out isn’t even a considerable option, the next best solution is to look upwards - the loft. The loft can be converted into a room that can used to satisfy varying purposes, be it a storage room, bedroom, home office, spare bathroom and more. There are a number of loft conversion styles you can go for including a room in loft conversion, dormer style conversion, mansard conversion, or a hip-to-gable conversion. Regardless of your choice, each of the types will not only give you new rooms to enjoy but also add value to your home. However, before getting started, it’s crucial to have an idea of the loft conversion cost to help you prepare a budget and begin planning. Here, you’ll discover the most likely loft room cost for each conversion style you opt for.

• Room In Loft Conversion

This is only suitable for some specific home, but it’s however the most affordable option of the lots. This loft conversion style will cost within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 (prices can be higher in regions where tradesmen are higher in demand such as London and the south east).

• Dormer Loft Conversion

These are relatively simple and straightforward to include in your home. The cost ranges between £31,000 to £58,000 depending on the conversion’s size and other factors.

• Hip To Gable Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is more complex than the aforementioned ones, hence they’re usually more costly to complete. The price ranges between £42,000 to £65,000.

• Mansard Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is the most complex of the lot and includes a complete overhaul of your loft. The price ranges between £45,000 to £70,000.

• Bungalow Loft Conversion

Any of the main styles above can be done to a bungalow if the planning requirements are fully complied with and if the property is suitable. The price ranges between £30,000 to £70,000.

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.

Do Bifold Doors Fold Back Flat?

Bifold doors, also referred to as folding doors, have grown to become a great alternative to the conventional sliding doors. It has become a necessity rather than a luxury for most home and property owners especially in the south east who are in need of more space and a memorable focal point. However, before installing the impressive bifold doors in your home’s doorways, it’s always a wise decision to learn more about bifold doors. In this article, we’ll let you whether or not bifold doors fold back flat.

Generally, bifold doors consists of 3 to 8 door panels, bifold slides and fold back against one another in such a way that they sit flat against one or both walls. However, this depends on how they’re designed, whether they’ve been designed to open either from the side or from the middle. They basically work on what’s popularly referred to as a concertina principle. This style fold principle works in a way that allows the door panels to smoothly fold back flat which totally opens up the room into an open plan masterpiece.

So now that you know that bifold doors fold back flat, you may also be curious to know whether they also open in or out. Depending on your specific requirements, bifold doors can actually open inwards and outwards independently. However, due to the fact that opening bifold doors can take up some essential space, several home and property owners do prefer installing their bifold doors in such a way that allows it to be opened outwards. What’s more? It’s also essential to take into account that opening bifold doors inwards have the potential to drip water onto internal flooring especially for the wet regions.

Installing wooden flooring is a quite simple process, however to get it right the first time, there are very essential preparations that must be made. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.

• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.

• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.

• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.

• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.

• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.

• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.

• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.

• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.

• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Removing floor tile is always a simple task until you get started. Then, you’d realize not only is it a tedious and time consuming task, but also one with multiple hidden challenges that’s only revealed once the project is underway. If you have no experience or perhaps you lack the confidence required to pull this off, we’d highly recommend you call in a professional who can guarantee the best outcome and save you some unnecessary spending. However, if you wish to tackle this yourself, this guide would be your perfect partner to ensure a successful outcome.

To get started, you’ll need the following tools; hammer, chisel, pry bar, scraper, trash can as well as a broom or shop vac.

1. Remove fixtures. Ensure the room is empty and remove all fixture that may get in the way.
2. Pick a starting point. Use a hammer and chisel to chip out a tile and create a starting point for the task. Depending on how the tile is affixed and the underlayment type incorporated, the tile may remove easily or require some effort. Use a hammer, chisel, pry bar or pole scraper to remove the tiles.
3. Remove the tiles. From the starting point created, proceed to pry up the tiles. Deposit then in a trash can or large bucket in order to reduce clutter.
4. Access underlayment. There are cases whereby the tiling is attached directly to a concrete floor or subfloor, however the common practice is having a plywood or mortarboard underlayment. The damaged underlayment should be detached to expose the subfloor.
5. Clear debris. Wipe out all debris from the floor using a broom or shop vac.
6. Remove nails. If you removed the damaged underlayment, you may have to either remove or pound in some nails to get a level surface.