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Also referred to as Freon, the refrigerant “R22 is a commonly used chlordiflouromethane that’s usually incorporated in air conditioning systems as well as many other refrigeration applications. However, because of the evidence discovered which shows the gas can contribute to the damage of the ozone layer, the refrigerant has now been banned since Dec 31, 2009 as it became legally required that any system making use of R22 and became faulty must be replaced.

Generally, R22 owners in commercial applications are now responsible for checking for leaks, record keeping as well as labelling of equipment using this type of gas. Failure to comply with these directives can lead to hefty fines.

Existing refrigeration and air conditioning equipment that makes use of R22 can still be used. However, the owner of the equipment will be denied any rights to purchase extra tanks of gas that’ll keep the equipment running. In the event whereby an air conditioning system requires a complete recharge of the R22 refrigerant, according to the law, it’ll be considered obsolete and therefore will have to be replaced. What’s more? As the remaining supplies of R22 starts to decline, the price of getting the refrigerant is expected to skyrocket. As a result, do not be shocked if the cost of purchasing more R22 to keep your current equipment running outweighs the cost of replacing your existing equipment with a new and environmentally approved one.

As R22 is gradually being phased out, there are new ozone friendly alternatives which are being introduced into the refrigerant market. Out of these alternatives, the most common one is the R410A, which is purely a combination of hydrofluorocarbons which does not deplete the ozone layer.

Signs of rising damp tend to be close to the ground, usually no higher than a metre. It usually works its way up walls in horizontal lines. Penetrating damp usually develops in patches and can often be much higher up. For more advice, speak to a damp proofing professional.

Are you thinking about installing a new bathroom in your home? One thing that commonly crosses most homeowner’s mind is whether a task can be done by themselves without having to call on a professional for help and in turn, save them some money. So if you’re also thinking along this route, then you’re not alone!

Asides the kitchen, no other home project is probably more involved when talking about the systems as well as skills required. At times, it can be so complicated most expert DIYers will take a deep breathe before carrying out a remodelling job for a bathroom. Basically, bathroom installation will include electrical works, plumbing works as well as tile works which all requires a highly skilled tradesman. It’s the type of work where every square foot counts as it’s a dense, tight work. Apart from that, there are usually some frequent surprises here and there such as identifying rotting joists as well as sub floor underneath a leaking shower or terribly rusted cast iron plumbing stacks. And to round it all up, you’ll also have to deal with the time pressure that comes with a bathroom remodelling project as the room is a highly essential space within the home. As a DIYer you’ll be under immense pressure to get it all over with as soon as possible for continued usage.

The solution to all the problems is simply to call in a professional who can help you manage the project from start to finish. The advantage of this is that you’ll get a good job done and probably in a quicker time than you would have. However, the main reason why most homeowners might not want to hire a pro to handle their bathroom remodelling job is because of money. Ultimately, if you feel confident enough you can go ahead and do the task yourself. If not, then calling in a reliable professional would be your best bet.

How Much Does A Loft Room Cost

In the event whereby you happen to run out of space in your home and extending sideways or moving out isn’t even a considerable option, the next best solution is to look upwards - the loft. The loft can be converted into a room that can used to satisfy varying purposes, be it a storage room, bedroom, home office, spare bathroom and more. There are a number of loft conversion styles you can go for including a room in loft conversion, dormer style conversion, mansard conversion, or a hip-to-gable conversion. Regardless of your choice, each of the types will not only give you new rooms to enjoy but also add value to your home. However, before getting started, it’s crucial to have an idea of the loft conversion cost to help you prepare a budget and begin planning. Here, you’ll discover the most likely loft room cost for each conversion style you opt for.

• Room In Loft Conversion

This is only suitable for some specific home, but it’s however the most affordable option of the lots. This loft conversion style will cost within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 (prices can be higher in regions where tradesmen are higher in demand such as London and the south east).

• Dormer Loft Conversion

These are relatively simple and straightforward to include in your home. The cost ranges between £31,000 to £58,000 depending on the conversion’s size and other factors.

• Hip To Gable Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is more complex than the aforementioned ones, hence they’re usually more costly to complete. The price ranges between £42,000 to £65,000.

• Mansard Loft Conversion

This style of loft conversion is the most complex of the lot and includes a complete overhaul of your loft. The price ranges between £45,000 to £70,000.

• Bungalow Loft Conversion

Any of the main styles above can be done to a bungalow if the planning requirements are fully complied with and if the property is suitable. The price ranges between £30,000 to £70,000.

How Much Does It Cost To Service An Oil Boiler?

With several homes in the UK using gas central heating, about 6 percent of households in the United Kingdom makes use of oil for their heating needs. If you’re one of those homeowners with an oil boiler, then you should know that servicing your oil boiler is a compulsory activity which should be done regularly in order to ensure the safety of your home, boost the efficiency of the boiler while also help you save money as it ensures you do not incur the potentially expensive repairs or even having to purchase a replacement boiler. If you service your oil boiler every year, you can be rest assured that you’ll continue to derive maximum benefits from your prized heating system for a long period of time. So exactly how much will you have to pay to service your oil boiler?

The service cost of an oil boiler is influenced by a wide range of factors which includes the location. However, the average cost of servicing an oil boiler in the UK is between £65 to £90, but depending on the location as well as other influencing factors, this price might be higher or lower.

Due to the higher cost of living and high demands at places such as London and the south east of the UK, you can discover that the cost of servicing your oil boiler can jump to as high as £160 to £190. In other regions, you can also find the oil boiler service cost to be as low as £50 to £60. What’s more? In the same locations, you can also discover varying prices which depends on the available services. Furthermore, in areas where there’s a lower competition from several engineers, the prices may also be higher.

The most serious form of fungal decay is dry rot which occurs when the moisture levels of a timber is about 20 percent. It targets timber in buildings and feeds off the part of the wood which gives it its strength.it is able to produce moisture through the digestion of timber and as a result, does not require any source of moisture to spread. Once the dry rot is able to spread, it can severely impact and compromise the structural integrity of the house or building. If you think you may have dry rot on your building, the best solution would be to call on a professional to conduct a survey of your premises and have it treated as soon as possible if positive. If the dry rot is not identified and treated as soon as possible, you may have to remove and replace all the affected timber later on. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of treating dry rot by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• The initial treatment stage of dry rot is to identify the moisture source and have it repaired. Once done, you’ll have to ascertain the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. To achieve this, simply open up the affected area by removing the plaster and render in all directions while also removing flooring and lifting floorboards. Once done, you should be in the best position to determine the full extent of the infected timbers.
• Proceed to cutback the timbers in-situ to a minimum of 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or the strands of hyphae.
• Remove all fruiting bodies and detectible spores. Clean the wall areas to eradicate surface growth using a stiff brush if necessary.
• Replace the timber with pre-treated timber.
• Treat the new and old timber with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid and sterilise the masonry.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

Do You Need Planning Permission For A Conservatory?

Adding a conservatory to your home or property comes with a whole lot of benefits. It provides you with the much needed additional living space within your property, add value to your home and creates a link between your home and garden. As advantageous as it is, one of the major reasons why some homeowners decide against constructing a new conservatory is because of planning permission. If you don’t know what you’re doing the entire process can be very tedious and you definitely do not want to go through the stress of completing your remarkable new conservatory, only to be instructed to have it removed again.

Therefore, as a homeowner, you have the responsibility to seek planning permission before you undergo such construction project and that’s more than enough to make some people reconsider the whole project. In this article, we’ll let you know whether you’ll need to apply for a planning permission.

Generally, conservatories falls into the category of permitted development rights which allows you to complete home building projects without having to apply for a planning permission. However, there are some circumstances where you’ll require a planning permission. These includes:

✓ If the conservatory covers more than 50 percent of the land around the main house.

✓ If the conservatory will be placed on the side of the house that faces the road.

✓ If the conservatory will be higher than the highest point of the main building’s roof.

✓ If the main building is lower than the height of the eaves and ridge.

✓ If the conservatory will be constructed to the side of the house and more than a single storey or it goes higher than 4 metres.

✓ If the conservatory will be wider than the width of the main building, if it’s to be built beside it.

✓ If the conservatory will be constructed at the rear and higher than 4 metres.