Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Stranraer.

Generally speaking, you do need an aerial if you have a smart TV. This what will enable you to watch live TV. However, if you’re not bothered about live TV, and just want to use services like Netflix, Amazon Prime and Youtube, you don’t normally need a TV aerial. This is because these services use the internet instead.

If you’re looking to hire the services of a house cleaner for your residential property, then one of the first things that naturally comes to mind is the cost of completing this task. Simple as it seems, there’s actually no short and direct answer to this question as the price of your clean will depends on a number of varying factors. Generally, the key drivers of the amount you’ll have to pay for your clean includes the following: location, number of rooms, frequency of cleans, the cleaner’s experience, number of cleaners in the local area, number of bathrooms, agency charges as well as optional extras.

There are two main routes you can take to hire a cleaner. These routes include using a cleaning company or agency, or source your own independent cleaner. Whichever way you choose to go through, it’ll automatically play a role in the price you’ll have to pay to get the cleaning service. In general, you can normally expect to pay between £4 to £10 per hour in agency fees in addition to the rate the average cleaner would expect for the area, based on how competitive the market for agencies is in your area.

For hourly cleaners, the cost you can expect to pay to have your house cleaned typically ranges from £12 to £23 average cost per hour. Prices in more rural areas tend to vary a lot more, which is mostly dictated by the number of businesses that are operating in the area.

There are a number of ways in which you can save money on your clean which includes supplying your own cleaning product or equipment, opting out of optional extras like oven cleaning or ironing, comparing quotes from different provides to get the best price and more.

The simple answer to this question is... they can be! Although there are many types of porch designs that are available in the market, the uPVC porch happens to be one of the most loved and cost effective. Most home and property owners prefer the installation of a uPVC porch for a number of reasons. These includes:

• Value for money

It’s no coincidence the uPVC is widely accepted across the building industry with a plethora of uses. Not only is it relatively inexpensive to manufacture, but even the recycled uPVC is now becoming more and more useful. UPVC’s main rivals are wood and aluminium, and both are way more expensive to incorporate for frame profiles. Therefore, making use of uPVC is going to make your initial costs relatively low.

• Life Span

Although the main rivals in both hardwood and aluminium can also boast a lengthy lifespan just as uPVC. However, considering the price that you can get a uPVC, the lifespan is just incredible as it can be measured in decades.

• Aesthetic Appeal

UPVC gives you a wide range of foil colours that’ll fit your home perfectly well while also enhancing it’s visual appeal. You can actually get a porch that looks exactly like it’s manufactured from timber frames. To achieve this, all you need to do would be to make use of a wood grain surface finish. This is also long lasting, strong and resistant to fade.

• Little Maintenance

This is a very common feature of uPVC that makes it even more advantageous when used in making a porch. Unlike timber or wood which swells due to absorption of water or shrinks, you’ll never need to worry about all these distortions and more with uPVC. No painting, no sanding and ultimately, low maintenance required.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

If you’re a home or property owner planning to get an electric vehicle, having a Level 2 charger installed in your garage or near your driveway can go a long way to make charging really convenient for you. So if at all you want to take on this task by yourself, you should ensure to do it the right way. If you lack the confidence or skills required to pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this post, we’re going to provide you with an good insight on the home electric charger installation process. Let’s take a look!

• Determine the eligibility of your home. Make sure your home is eligible for a charger installation by consulting with your Technical Safety BC.
• Confirm you have sufficient electricity supply. Is there enough electricity distributed to your home to support an ev charger?
• Confirm that your electrical panel has enough space to accommodate a circuit breaker for the electric vehicle charger. If not, you’ll need to hire the services of an electrician.
• Get an electrical permit. Apply for an electrical permit with your municipality or Technical Safety BC.
• Charger installation. Proceed to fit the ev charger, but make sure a safety officer is on hand to examine your electrical work before you conceal any wiring or attach to a supply source. Then your electrician will have to complete the contractor consultancy form once the installation is done.
• Inspection. The inspection should be inspected by your municipality or Technical Safety BC.
• Apply for a rebate.

How Often Do Flat Roofs Need Replacing?

When a flat roof needs to be replaced is determined by a number of factors which includes the roof’s exposure to the weather, the condition and age of the roofing materials as well as the construction of the roof. However, with proper maintenance and regular inspection, they should be used for nothing less than 50 years. There are some commonly used types of flat roofs which includes Felt flat roof as well as a GRP flat roof.

Felt Flat Roof

The lifespan of a felt flat roof also varies depending on the quality and grade of the felt roof incorporated. This can make the roof last within the range of 2 to 20 years. More often than not, felt flat roofs are usually installed in such a way to keep the costs down which implies the grades of felts that are mostly used are the economical ones implying a very short lifespan.

In the event whereby a premium grade of felt is incorporated in constructing a roof by professional contractors, will be guaranteed by the manufacturer to last between 10 to 20 years.

One of the major causes of a short lifespan in felts is leaks which should be regularly inspected and repaired once identified. If not, the roof will gradually deteriorate and become a lot weaker due to the action of the sun. However, when a felt roof starts to leak, it’s usually a sign that’s approaching the end of its lifespan and a replacement should be taken into account.

GRP Flat Roof

The GRP flat roof or fibreglass flat roof usually comes with a manufacturer’s guarantee of 20 years and is expected to have a lifespan of a minimum of an additional 10 years.

Unlike felt roofs, they’re more resistant to leaks. However, they should also be regularly inspected for leaks which are caused mostly as a result of installation error rather than the GRP roofing approaching the end of its useful life. If the GRP roof repair does not totally resolve the leak, you should start considering a replacement.

Double glazing is made up of two layers of glass, with a layer of argon gas in between. This type of glass can be used in Aluminium windows. The gas is a poor insulator, helping heat to stay in your home and making your windows more efficient. As well as trapping the argon gas, the second layer of glass reduces the amount of noise that enters your property, and helps to make your windows stronger and more secure.

How Much Is A Boiler Service?

A broken boiler can be a huge pain and even more so if it occurs during the winter months. A cold house and cold shower is not a situation to be handled with levity especially when there are older people or more vulnerable members in the house. To ensure your boiler keeps functioning the way it should for a lengthy period of time, it’s crucial to ensure that you have your boiler serviced on a yearly basis. But while the summer or warmer months happen to be the most cost effective time to have the boiler servicing done, doing it during the depths of winter can go a long way to ensure that you and your loved ones get through the cold without any unwanted occurrence or boiler issues.

Generally, to have your boiler serviced will cost anything within the range of £80 to about £120, but at times, this can even be more depending on a plethora of factors. The servicing cost will be based on the particular company you choose, the type of boiler you possess, as well as your location in the UK. For instance, if you happen to live in London where demands are higher than the other regions, then you’ll most likely have to pay more money to have your boiler serviced than other homeowners facing similar issues but staying in the other lower demand regions.

Asides from hiring a professional to service your boiler on an annual basis, you should also try to help maintain its efficiency and health in between those services. This will not be a substitute to the regular servicing or even make the servicing a lot simpler, but will surely help keep it at a maximum efficiency while also keeping the cost of your heating bills down.