Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Pewsey.

First and foremost, it must be stated that replacing an existing electric shower is much easier than fitting one from new. This is primarily due to the fact that the main components required which includes the water pipes as well as electrical connections will have already been established. In this post, we’re going to assume that all these are already in place which means you’re replacing an existing electric shower with a new one. It’ll also be an advantage if the preferred electric shower features cable and pipe entry points at the top and bottom as well as the rear and side so as to allow for more flexibility when it gets to routing cables and pipes. If you’re not confident enough to pull off this task, then it’s strong advisable to call in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your electric shower:

• Disconnect the power supply as you probably know water and electricity aren’t particularly the best of friends. Once done, you’ll also need to turn off the water supply
• Remove the shower unit. Many shower units are secured with four screws which makes the removal rather straightforward.
• Examine the shower connection points to determine if they’re in the same place on the new unit as they were on the old one.
• Install the new shower unit. First, you’ll have to mark the position of the new units on the wall using a pencil. If the new units don’t possess the same silhouette as the old one, you’ll have to drill new ones preferably using a masonry drill bit.
• Check your installation at both the electrical and water supply to ensure the connection is made correctly.
• Test your new electric shower by turning the power and water supplies back on.

Yes - in the Summer many UK homes could benefit from air conditioning, particularly in southern and eastern areas and is global temperatures increase with longer, hotter, dryer Summer months. Also, most modern air conditioning units function as heat pumps, meaning they can be used in winter as part of a heating system.

Having a security gate installed on your property brings about a lot of benefits. However, to ensure these benefits are maximized, it’s important to make sure the gates are properly installed. The installation can be made a DIY task or professionally installed. If you wish to install your security gates by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in the installation of a security gate. Let’s take a look!

1. Go through the instructions carefully to get the best out of your installation and also a good understanding.
2. Dig holes for the posts. Don’t make holes round to make sure the posts do not turn or twist.
3. Get rid of any obstructions like uneven ground, rocks or any other obstacles that may impact the free opening of the gate.
4. Re-confirm the distance between the two poles to make sure that the gate can hang perfectly between them.
5. Get an adjustable hinge. Adjustable hinge will allow for extra customization while also enabling improved correction of errors.
6. Make sure that the measurement taken leaves sufficient space for vehicles such as emergency vehicles and package delivery trucks when opened.
7. If you have a fence that’ll be connected to the gate, you should install the gate at the back of the fencing pillars. If you later decide to automate the security gate, this will prove to be a smart move as it enables a free and unhindered function.
8. Make sure you go through the local laws before installation.

Also referred to as drywall, plasterboard is a panel that features an inner layer of gypsum and spread between facer as well as backer paper. It is mostly incorporated in the construction of both interior walls and ceilings. Plasterboard can be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant. Due to these reasons and also the fact that it’s very easy to install and very affordable, plasterboard is a very popular choice when it comes to interior walls and ceilings.

One of the major issues that most homeowners face when fitting plasterboard is the thickness required to make the project a long lasting one. But not to worry, we got you covered! If you’re about to install plasterboard for your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In general, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths.

Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

Plasterboards are a great noise insulators which can also reduce disturbances from other activities. As a result, for walls, size of plasterboards that’s considered appropriate for walls is 12.5 mm or 13 mm.

Finding a builder nearby can have enormous assistance when it comes to your build. Period on site, their familiarity of local planning permission, constructors’ dealers and other local trades are all vital bits of knowledge that you’ll welcome on site.

It is always wise to walk around in your local area or drive to a site where any construction work is going on. It’ll give you a proper impression of the constructors who are active nearby. You don’t have to like their style of work or the project they are currently carrying out – after all, a builder can only produce what’s on the plans in front of them.

Find a Builder Other Tradesmen Recommend

If you’ve had to call an electrician before or a local plumber and liked their work, you can always ask them if they have any builders whom they would recommend. Maximum tradesmen get used to seeing the similar acquainted names from one place to another in the sites they are working on and every so often has favourites for who they like to work with — and who they see as a good source of work.

Always Talk to Previous Customers

Once you’ve found a builder you would like to work with, ask them for a list of previous customers they have worked with; they ought to be glad to offer particulars if they’re self-assured they’ve done an effective job.

Look for a builder online

A decent place to start looking for builders online is on sites like the ours so that you can find quality tradespeople and see genuine reviews from previous customers. Not all online review sites can be trusted to display real reviews.

Are you thinking about converting your garage into a new space? Be it a new bedroom, gym, library or playroom, one thing you’ll have to consider before getting started is whether or not you’re going to require a planning permission. Unlike extensions that needs additional space, garage conversion is all about changing the existing structure of a space that’s already available to you - your garage. As a result, these projects are mostly covered by a planning policy that’s a bit different.

For a garage conversion, it’s very unlikely that you’ll need a planning permission. As a matter of fact, only 10 percent of garage conversions has been estimated to need a full planning permission, with the others coming under the permitted development rights. The permitted development rights, however, only provides coverage for home improvements that’s internal which implies that so far you’re not trying to enlarge your garage, you’ll not require a planning permission. But if otherwise, you’ll have to submit an application before commencing your project.

If you’re looking to comply with the permitted development rights, then your project must comply with some specific guidelines. These rules include the following:

• The work should be internal. No plans to enlarge or extend the existing garage.

• You should make sure that the materials used in carrying out the garage conversion is the same with the materials used in building the existing house.

• The building should not be extended.

You may, however, require a planning permission if you’re going to change a detached garage into a living space which could be a bedroom, small annexe or a living room.

Some houses excluded from the permitted development rights include flats, listed buildings, some new developments and most homes in a conservation area.

Can You Plaster Over Tiles?

Yes, it’s absolutely possible to plaster over tiles but just because is possible doesn’t mean you should. Plastering over tiles is an option but it’s not recommended by experts due to several reasons. A good example is the fact that a tiled environment is in no way a suitable environment that can serve as a good bonding surface for a plaster. For the success of a plastering project, there’s the need for the surface to be able to bond to the PVA base coat. Due to fact that most tiles are slippery in nature and also lack of the ability to be able to absorb moisture, the PVA base coat layer will not be able to bond to the tiled surface, which will ultimately make for a weak surface upon the application of the plaster. Consequently, the plaster will easily flake and fall from the wall.

The inability to drill into the tiled wall surface after plastering is one of the major disadvantages that also arises when you decide to plaster over tiled surfaces. Most tiled surfaces are found in kitchens and bathrooms which are going to need appliances such as sinks, lavatories, kitchen counters and lots more. These appliances are designed to be installed on solid surfaces which would not be an easy task to carry out on tiles knowing there would definitely be great cracks or damages.

The best tip you’ll get if you’re considering to plaster on a tiled surface, is that detaching tiles from a surface can easily be done with a hammer and chisel, and that would save you a host of problems later in the future. However, if you still wish to plaster on your tiled walls, then you best bet would be to get a Blue Grit bonding agent. It works better than PVA and only needs one coat.

Fibreglass, or GRP, flat roofs are very durable and should last you years, but over time they can become brittle and you might see some cracks or holes forming. Luckily, you can repair a fibreglass flat roof and it doesn’t have to be too difficult. Cracks in a fibreglass flat roof If you notice long cracks in your fibreglass roof, you can often use a fibreglass crack sealant. Simply clean the area, squeeze the sealant into the crack, then smooth it off. If you want it to look neater, you could coat the entire roof with a restorative coating which will make it look new again. Hole in a fibreglass roof If you notice a hole in your fibreglass flat roof, you’ll want to get this repaired as soon as possible to avoid any rainwater getting into your home. There are lots of fibreglass roof hole repair kits on the market, both online and in DIY stores, so you shouldn’t have trouble picking one up. They usually contain a mouldable UV cured patch that you can stick onto the hole. It will harden and become instantly weatherproof, so is the perfect emergency repair solution. Fixing pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof Unfortunately, if you find pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof it’s often because the installer didn’t use enough resin during the fibreglassing process. Luckily, if you can’t get back in touch with the installer or you only notice after a few years, you can fix this yourself. Sand down the roof back to the clear resin layer. Clean the entire roof with acetone and reapply some GRP roofing resin. Ensure that all the pinholes are filled – you might need two coats.