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Roofing is one of the most significant portions of your household. Not only does it protect the inhabitants from the elements, but it also plays a vital role in the architectural appeal. When people reflect of roofing, they consider various types of tile for the job.

Metal Tiles

When we talk of metal roofs, most of the people think of roofs made of metal panels which are joined together by joints or raised seams. This is often not the case as there are several numbers of obtainable metal roofing products.

Ceramic Tiles

Another popular choice of roofing material is ceramic. Clay tiles are incombustible and fairly sturdy, necessitating scarcer repairs or substitutions than asphalt roofs.

Concrete Tiles

For those that like the look of ceramic tiles, as well as their fire resistance, this may not be the choice, but those who want something a little tougher and less susceptible to cracking when having work done on the roof, there are the best tiles.

Bituminous Tiles

For those that want a lightweight, supple tile that’s easier to fit, there’s the bituminous tile. These types of tiles are made from cellulose fibre or using fibreglass allowing them to be flexible.

Polymer-Sand Tiles

A new-fangled substitute for ceramic tiles is the polymer-sand tile. Created from a combination of sand bound together with polymers, these are very rigid, sturdy tiles are shaped in a mould.

Copper Tile

Copper roofs can be a great choice for many due to their long lifespan. Copper tiles have the ability to last over a century before needing replacement.

Composite Tile

Another newer roofing tile is the composite. This is a multi-layered tile that is made using metal, acrylic and stone granules.

Stone Tiles

This is one of the oldest forms of roofing tiles that you can get out there. It is also one of the longest-lasting tiles on the market as well, with some roofs lasting well over 100 years.

This is an individual who is trained in the art of working with concrete blocks or bricks, clay bricks as well as other kinds of mortar building materials. In a combination of these materials and good bricklaying skills, a bricklayer can build and repair veneer as well as full brick construction, arches, partitions and other structures.

Contrary to many beliefs, a bricklayer actually does more than laying of bricks. There’s more to being a bricklayer than you can probably think of. A single bricklaying projects requires a wide array of skills. Let’s have a look at these skills!

• Using damp resistant materials to seal foundations.

• Spreading mortar between joints and applying them to serve as a thick layer binding the bricks together in rows.

• Reading and working from specifications as well as plans.

• Working with brick-cutting machines.

• Taking charge and caring for cement blocks or bricks, clay bricks and the likes.

• Construction of scaffolding - subject to possession of some licenses in some states.

A bricklayer mostly works outdoors, in the field and may also work at heights. Depending on the job, a bricklayer can work as part of a team or be in contact with the public. They are mostly recruited by building and construction companies and bricklaying sub contractors. However, they can also set up their own private construction firm or become a self employed tradesperson.

A bricklaying qualification is one of just two construction trades which can continue to become a registered builder. And regardless of the form a bricklaying employment takes, there are certain qualities that makes a really good bricklayer. These includes:

• Ability to work at heights and outdoors

• Enjoy practical work

• Technical aptitude

• Good hand-eye coordination

• Independent and yet a team player too

• Top physical fitness

• Attitude and attendance.

There’s no doubt that weeds coming through your block paving can be unsightly and annoying. But, it’s relatively easy to get rid of weeds that are growing in the joints between your block paving. To start, pull out the larger weeds, and then you can use a pressure washer or firm bristled brush to remove the smaller weeds and debris from the joints in your block paving. It’s best to then refill the joints with additional sand to ensure your block paving remains level. Regularly brushing your block paving and treating with weed killer will help to prevent the weeds from reoccurring.

If you want to connect solar panels to a battery, it’s likely that it’s because you want to make sure that you don’t waste any electricity when your solar panels are generating energy but you’re not around to use it. Batteries are particularly useful for homeowners that have solar panels but are out during daylight hours; with a solar battery system, your solar panels will feed the electricity they generate into the battery for you to use when you get home.

If you want to connect your solar panels to a battery, the best thing to do is to get in touch with an MCS-registered company who can talk you through your options. There are different size batteries and the size that’s suitable for you will depend on how much electricity you plan to store and how large your solar panel system is. Some of the top brands of battery storage system include Tesla, SunPower and SolarEdge. If you want to be able to take advantage of selling electricity back to the grid through the Smart Export Guarantee (SEG), it’s worth getting an MCS-registered company to install your battery for you, as you may not be eligible for payments if you connect your solar panels to a battery yourself.

You should also consider whether your solar panel system is a ‘storage ready’ solar system. Today, most systems will be, since battery storage is becoming much more common. This means that your solar panel system will have an inverter that can easily integrate a battery. If this is the case, you should be able to purchase the battery you want and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install it.

However, it’s worth bearing in mind that electricity is extremely dangerous when handled incorrectly. If something goes wrong, you could electrocute yourself or cause a fire. If your solar panels and battery cause a fire, it’s unlikely that your home insurance company would pay out if you connect the battery yourself. That's why it’s best to ask a reputable installer with all the correct qualifications to connect your solar panels to a battery for you.

If your artex ceiling is looking tired or you just fancy a change, you can try plastering over your artex. You have two options when it comes to plastering over your artex: plasterboard or skimming.

Covering your ceiling with plasterboard is a good option if you suspect the artex may contain asbestos. If done carefully, it doesn’t involve disturbing the artex, reducing the risk of asbestos exposure.

You also have the option to skim over your ceiling. The first steps to this involve removing loose and flaking parts, cutting off stipples and sanding your ceiling down. So, if there’s a chance your artex ceiling may contain asbestos, this isn’t the right solution for you. However, if you’re sure there’s no asbestos in your ceiling, then sanding down and skimming over your ceiling can be a great way to create an attractive result.

It’s worth noting that both putting up plasterboard and skimming plaster can be difficult jobs. Although possible to DIY, you’re likely to get much better results if you hire a professional.

If you’re going through new constructions or renovations and looking to change your old front door and install a brand new composite door, then you’re at the right place. Composite door fitting can be a DIY project but it’s essential to have the necessary training and experience before commencement. If not, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save yourself some time and money.Here, we’ll give a good insight into the composite door fitting process.

To get started, here are some of the tools that may be required - tape measure, hammer, stanley knife, crowbar, chisel, saw. Silicone sealant gun, spirit levels, electric drill ( including the hammer section), rubber mallet and 6mm socket spanner.

lPreparation

• Remove the existing door by rounding up the door frame firstly with a knife to reduce the possible damage to the wall.

• Cut through the door jambs.

• Remove each in two separate sections.

• Ensure the opening is level without any screws, mastic and filler.

lAlign Your Composite Door

• Ensure the sill of the door is level and flat.

• Make sure the frame is square and plumb in both planes.

• Bridge the cavity of the wall and cover the DPC

• Ensure that the frame is square. If not, your composite door won’t function as it should.

lInstall Your Composite Door

• Place the door in the frame.

• Hold the frame firmly in position with wedge packers

• Make sure the packers are positioned close to where the fixing will be placed.

• Make sure the jams are square and plumb in all planes by using a long spirit level.

• Secure the frame to the brickwork with the use of a drill.

• Place the fixings at the top and bottom of each hinge as well as each of the lock keep.

• Top fixings should be fitted 150mm and 250mm from each corner.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.