Find a Tiler you can trust in Worcester.

Are you interested in fitting tiles in your home or office? If yes, then you’d probably want to know the total cost of getting the project over the line. And being fully aware every job is unique, having a cost per square metre to work with will give you a more accurate price estimation for the overall project. 

First and foremost, the cost of a tiler depends on a wide range of factors such as the type of floor tiles and the size of the area. The cheapest of them all is the vinyl tiles which can be easily cut through and waterproof when properly sealed. As a result, making them a better fit for bathroom floors. Other kinds of tiles include ceramic tiles, mosaic tiles, quarry tiles and porcelain tiles. Each of the types have their own unique qualities including the quarry tiles’ durability and the afore-mentioned vinyl tiles’ waterproof qualities.

Having in mind that the major part of your tiles cost largely depends on the size of the area and the type of tile selected, you can then go ahead to contact your preferred tiling professional for an installation quote. The average price of bathroom tiles installation ranges about £20 to £25 per square metre. Meanwhile for a kitchen floor tiling project, the cost should range between £20 to £50 per square metre.

Finding a tiling professional you can rely on to complete your project and deliver a top quality job while also offering a very competitive price can be almost impossible. The professional you use greatly determines the price of your tiling effort, so there’s the need to review various professionals before making a decision.

Kitchen fitters are often trained carpenters and not all will offer tiling but many will know a tiler that they have worked with in the past. If you are looking to get your kitchen retiled without fitting a new kitchen when it's worth talking to tilers directly to get a range of prices.

It's useful to know in advance what tiles you like, a visit to your local tile store and either pick up a brochure or take some photos. It's probably better not to purchase the tiles at this moment though as often your appointed tiler may be able to get you a better price for the tiles or recommend alternatives. 

How To Tile A Kitchen Floor

Tiling your kitchen floor can seem a daunting task at first glance, but is a skill that can be mastered after a couple of practices. With this simple guide, you will find it easier to satisfy your kitchen floor tiling needs.

lPrepare The Subfloor

• Ensure the subfloor is very secure to support both the tile and the people working across it.

• If necessary, you can strengthen the kitchen floor with the help of a vinyl, heavy felt or any other good backer board.

• After successfully securing the floor, proceed to clear out all dust and dirt.

lMix The Mortar

• Mix a thinset mortar be referring to the instructions on the package. ( Mix only the quantity you can apply within 30 minutes).

• Once the mixture looks similar to the thickness of mayonnaise, allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before application.

lApply The Mortar

• Apply a thin layer of mortar

• Do not cover extensive areas as the mortar can become very dry.

• Spread the mortar with a trowel in curved patterns to make it flat on the floor.

lSet The Tile

• Set down the tile slowly, apply a little pressure until its holds firmly to the surface. ( Apply a consistent amount of pressure throughout to ensure equal heights for all the tiles)

• Continue with the process until all full tiles are well positioned

lCut The Tiles

• Once all the full tile pieces are in place, start cutting to cover the edges requiring smaller tile pieces.

• Take accurate measurements of the outer edges needing smaller tile pieces.

• Cut the tile pieces to fit the measurement taken with the help of a wet saw or hand tile cutter.

lGrouting

• Remove all spacers and mortar residues and lay the grout

• Apply the grout along the tiles’ seams with a grout float

• Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge after leaving it to dry for about 30 minutes

• Once the grout is fully dried, apply the sealer (the drying process normally takes within 3 to 4 days).

For the best results, it’s advisable to contact a tiling professional for help when it comes to kitchen floor tiling especially if you have no training or prior experience. This way, you can get the best quality and also avoid the regrettable mistakes and extra costs that’s very common with newbies.

How To Tile A Bathroom Wall With Large Tiles

It is crucial to make the walls of your bathroom waterproof, and a great way to do this is by installing tiles on them. And to make it more effective, less time consuming and a lot easier, you can make use of the large tiles in your shower. So how do you have them installed? With this brief guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the bathroom wall large tiles installation. Let’s have a look!

lGet The Appropriate Substrate

• Clean the surface on which the large tiles will be placed

• Make use of levelling spacers to ensure the large wall tiles are even.

• Get a cement-made backer board to install the tiles

• You made require a large format wall adhesive for the installation, if the large wall tiles are different

lSet The Layout

• You may need a dry layout for the tiles installation (installation without mortar or other bonding agents).

• Start with the first wall opposite the bathroom’s entrance

• Once completed, you can continue with the remaining parts of the bathroom wall.

• Place the first tile at the centre.

• Place the subsequent tiles on each side of the previous ones to have a more balanced installation.

There are three varying materials that can be utilized in installing heavy wall tiles. These includes thin set mortar, epoxy and mastic. However, you should always make use of epoxy for large format tile layout. To do this, simply place the tiles at your desired angle and gently twist them to hold firmly in place. Continue with this process till you have successfully covered the entire bathroom wall with the large tiles. Once done, leave the bathroom wall to dry.

It is advised that you hire the professional services of a tile installation company in order to get the best outcome especially if you lack the necessary experience, tools and knowledge to carry out the project. This will save you some time, effort and money.

How To Remove Tile Adhesive From Wall

Do you feel your tile design choices are outdated and want to replace it with a more stylish one? Or perhaps you’re just struggling to remove the old tile adhesive from your wall. Putting on a new wallpaper or repainting your wall might be a cup of tea, but retiling is surely a different experience altogether. After detaching every single piece of tile from the wall, you’ll still have the strongly glued adhesive to battle with. If not done properly, you may as well damage the wall which will trigger a new additional cost for repair. We’d recommend you get a professional helping hand for the best results if you’re without a proper training or experience. However, this guide will teach you everything you need to know about the process. Let’s get started!

Materials Required

• Steamer

• Protective sheets

• 4-inch scraper

• Clean cloth

• Protective gear - face mask, eye goggles, gloves.

Tile Adhesive Removal Process

• Cover The Floor

Ensure that the floor is well covered to collect the residues falling off from the wall with some protective sheets.

• Heat Up The Adhesive

Using the wallpaper steamer, heat up the adhesive to make it a bit loose and softer. Do this by slowly moving the steamer around and ensure not to stay on one spot for too long.

• Scrape Off The Mortar

When you can tell the adhesive is properly softened, use the 4 inch scraper to wipe it off the wall. Do this until all the adhesive has been completely removed.

• Clear Out The Fallen Residue

Clean up any mortar that has fallen on the floor.

After the tile adhesive removal, your wall may need to be skimmed depending on its state. This is to put the surface in a good and flat condition before installing the new tiles. The wall may also need to be re-plastered if the adhesive is extremely strong.

Do you wish to have your residential or commercial space tiled? With a plethora of benefits that comes with a tiled floor, it’s little surprise more and more home and property owners are going for this special flooring type. Not only are they able to improve the curb appeal of any property, but they’re also resistant to moisture helping to increase the durability of the house – be it wall or floor tiles.

Tiling a floor is not the simplest of tasks and should be done with utmost care and attention to details. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend you hire a reputable professional who can guarantee the best outcome the first time.  In this guide, you’ll find processes involved in floor tiling to help put you in the right direction.

Floor Tiles Installation Procedures

1. Floor Preparation
   The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more. Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.
2. Ensure the floor is dry and clean.
3. Pattern Layout
   Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.
4. Adhesive Preparation
   Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent). The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.
5. Tiles Placement
   Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel. Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.
   
   Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.
6. Tiles Cutting
   Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.
7. Grout Application
   Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float. After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes. Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.
8. Grout Sealing
   Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application. Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

How To Lay Wall Tiles

Laying of wall tiles is a task that should be done with great caution, especially if you’re working on a tight budget. It is guided by its own unique set of rules which you do not dare to break if you wish to get it right the first time, and also to avoid incurring some additional costs. If you do not have a proper training or experience, laying of wall tiles is better left to a skilled professional for the best possible outcome. However, this guide will walk you through the various steps in the process to help improve your knowledge. Let’s get started!

lPrepare The Wall Surface

• Make sure the surface is clean, dry and smooth

• In wet areas, wall tiles should be fitted over a backer board

• If it’s a painted wall, ensure to sand the surface before installation.

lCreate The Layout

• Locate the centre of the wall

• Create an intersecting vertical and horizontal layout lines using a level

• Ensure to include spaces for grout joints when creating the layout.

lApply The Adhesive

• For wet areas, makes use of thin-set adhesive that’s cement-based.

• For dry areas, you can use pre-mixed mastic adhesive

• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to prepare the adhesive

• Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive (hold the trowel at about 45 degrees angle)

• Ensure not to cover the layout lines with the adhesive

lInstall The Tiles

• Follow the layout lines to install the wall tiles

• Place the full tiles firmly on the adhesive and twist slight and gently to make them fit.

• Use tile spacers to ensure constant gaps for grout joints.

lCut The Tiles

• After installation of the full tiles, there’ll most likely be a need to cut some tiles to fit.

• Cut the tiles with a wet saw or manual tile cutter

lGrout The Tile

• Ensure the adhesive is well dried and remove the tile spacers.

• Prepare the grout as instructed by the manufacturer.

• Use a rubber gloat to apply the grout.

• Remove the excess grout from the tile surfaces

• Wipe the tiles and joints gently using a grout sponge and clean water.

Some floor tiles are so lovely you just can’t help but wonder if it’s safe to be used on the walls as well. If you’re also thinking along the same line, you’re not alone! Several other home and property owners are busy finding answers to this particular question. Now let’s look at the possibilities.

Generally, any tile designed as a floor tile by the tile manufacturer can also be laid on the wall (vertical surfaces) as well as countertops. Due to the fact that the floors are usually subjected to greater use than the walls in terms of foot traffic, the durability required is also considerably greater. Therefore, a floor tile with Abrasion Resistance values ranging from I - V is suitable for wall installation. However, you should take note that exterior wall applications must be different from its interior counterparts and must only be incorporated on tiles that are frost resistant.

There are two other factors that must be taken into consideration before you install a floor tile on your walls which includes the weight of your tiles per m2 as well as the strength of the surface in which the tile is to be installed. If you don’t want your tiles falling off, the combined weight of the tiles with the adhesive and grout should not be more than the maximum weight required per m2 (20kg to 35kg depending on the wall substrates).

Now that you have an idea of the possibilities of installing floor tiles on walls, it must, however, be said that reverse is the case when it comes to installing walls tiles on the floor. Wall tiles are, generally, not suitable to be laid on the floor as they are mostly non-vitreous ( cannot withstand excessive impact, abrasion or thaw cycling).