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If you’ve decided to construct a porch to your property and now looking to figure out the cost required to complete the project, then you’re at the right place!

There are many factors that comes to play when determining the price of building a porch. These factors includes the size of the porch, the number of windows, the style of the roof as well as the type of the porch selected. Now let’s take a look at these factors one after the other.

• The Porch’s Size

As you would have correctly imagined, a large porch will definitely cost more money than a smaller one. A rough estimate of a porch’s cost per square metre is approximately £1,400.

• The Number Of Windows

Just like in the scenario above, the more the number of windows to be incorporated, the more money you’ll have to pay to complete your porch. A porch window will generally cost you within a range of £300 to £1,000

• The Style Of The Roof

There are two popular styles of porch’s roof which includes a tiled rood and a rubber flat roof. Generally, roof tiles are costlier than a rubber flat roof. A tiled roof would cost you between £0.80 to £1.80 per roof tile, while a rubber roofing will cost your between £70 to £90 per metre squared.

• Type Of The Porch

Another huge determinant of a porch’s price is type of material incorporated. For instance, if your preferred type is a lean-to, the price of a uPVC would be between £2,300 to £2,700. Meanwhile, a flat gable roof porch should cost within a range of £3,300 to £3,800.

Kindly note that the costs quoted in this article are only rough estimates, for a more accurate estimate you can contact a porch building professional within your local area.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

On the grand scale of things there isn’t a huge difference between B-rated windows and A-rated windows. Consumer watchdog Which? have calculated an extra 6.5% would be saved on energy bills with A rather than B rated panes. Be aware that A rated windows are slightly more expensive, however.

Coloured double glazing windows are more expensive than white ones, in general. uPVC is the cheapest material to use for double glazing, and white is the standard colour. But there are endless possibilities in terms of colours you can have, and they do come at additional cost.

Some people choose to have coloured double glazing that matches or opposes the colour of the exterior of their house. Another popular option is a woodgrain effect, which from a distance looks just like more expensive timber windows. The best thing about a wood effect is that you can have the stylish look of wooden windows without the maintenance, and they should last longer.

While coloured double glazing is more expensive than white ones, it doesn’t have to break the bank. The best thing to do is get in touch with a range of window companies and ask them to come round to give you a quote. They should be able to offer you brochures or links to websites of different brands of windows that offer coloured frames. From there, you can decide on the installers you liked most and the brand you preferred.

It’s worth bearing in mind that it’s not always best to go with the cheapest coloured windows. While there lots of good, inexpensive options out there, sometimes very cheap windows won’t be good quality and may not last as long as other slightly more expensive brands. Speak to your installer about guarantees that may come with the windows and how long they would expect them to last before making your final decision.

Double glazing frames don’t just have to come in uPVC and are available in other materials including aluminium and wood too. Wooden or timber windows are more suited to properties with a traditional look and are often the frame of choice for listed buildings and homes in conservation areas. When properly maintained wooden windows can last well for years but can be up to three times more expensive than uPVC.Aluminium is the strongest and most durable option. As a metal it is highly resistant to the UK’s changing weather conditions and won’t rust, warp, crack or peel. Aluminium offers a modern appeal and is available in a range of colours.

After fitting your new windows, your installer should take away and dispose of your old windows. If you want to keep them, just let your installer know before they start work. The UPVC frames are melted down and used on the unseen parts of new windows. Aluminium frames are re-smelted and wooden are broken down and used as chipboard.

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.

1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.