Find a Window Installer you can trust in Uxbridge.

To install one small double glazed window, it will take anywhere between two hours and half a day. It will depend on whether one installer is fitting your window or two. And if you’re doing it yourself and don’t have any professional experience, it will take even longer.

When the window fitters arrive, they will make sure they’ve got safe access to the window and move any heavy furniture if they need to. Any good installer will lay down a dust sheet, but it’s a good idea to check that they’ve got one laid down before they start.

The first step any window installer will take is to double check the measurements of the new frame against your existing one. Hopefully it should match up, so then they’ll take the old window out. Then, they’ll insert the new frame into the aperture and bolt it into the concrete. They'll check it with a spirit level to ensure it’s even before moving onto the glass sealed unit.

The installer will place the glass into the aperture, then fit the beads to secure the glass in the frame. They’ll then use silicone and trim on the inside and outside to ensure the window looks perfect. You won’t be able to see where they’ve used sealants or trims because they’ll colour match them so it’s not noticeable. Then, they’ll tidy up all of their tools and the working area and let you know what needs to be done in terms of proving that the window meets building regulations. Most good installers are registered with a self-certification scheme, so will be able to issue a certification once the work is complete.

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.

• Impact from a stone or other object smashing the glass in a ‘bullseye’ effect
• The result of a break-in
• Extreme weather or changes in pressure causing a crack
• The sealed unit being ‘blown’, meaning that it’s no longer energy efficient due to air leaking out

There are so many benefits that comes with building a porch in your home premises. It’s an extra space where a lot can be achieved such as drying a dripping wet dog, taking off your dirty shoes or boot and lots more. So if you’re considering to construct a porch, it’s definitely going to be a wise decision. However, before you get started, there’s a need to determine if you’ll need planning permission for a porch. It’s important to take note that planning laws are dynamic and can be updated at any point, so be sure only to use trusted sources only as your guide. If you’re the homeowner or landlord, it’s entirely your responsibility to obtain the right approval for any development project you wish to carry out within your premises.

A Porch can not be termed as an extension and neither is it a conservatory, they’re basically built to the home’s front covering the main entrance using a stone base or a brick. As a result, a porch does not need planning permission due to the fact that it’s covered by the permitted development rights if the specific guidelines for porches are complied with. Below are the instances where you WILL need planning permission for a porch.

✓ If the floor space is more than 3sqm (the wall inclusive).

✓ The highest point has a height of more than 3 metres.

✓ If the porch is situated within 2 metres of a boundary directly facing on to the road.

You may need planning permission if the house is a listed building, designated area or falls under an Article 4 Direction.

In order to build a porch without planning permission, you need to consider all the criteria stated above. You can also visit the Planning Portal website to get more detailed information before getting started.

1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.

These days, buyers expect homes to have double glazing. People recognise the benefits of installing double glazing, so if you don’t have it installed you should consider it. You’ll increase your property’s value and give it a better chance of selling faster, since single glazed properties are also more likely to have problems with damp and mould which could put buyers off.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.