Paving & Driveway | Block
Ullapool - IV26
Enquiry from: Jonathan S
Start Date: Immediate
Block paving in driveway
Block paving can look good as a driveway. It is a stylish and functional solution to your driveway and will give your home great kerb appeal. Whether you want a classic herringbone design or something a little different, there are plenty of block paving materials and options available to you. The bricks found in block paving are manufactured from clay commonly, but some are made up of different composite materials. One of the main benefits to block paving is that if a few of the bricks get broken over time, they can easily be replaced. In addition, it means that it's easier to carry out work under the top of paving without leaving a mark. The most frequent pattern that driveway companies lay is the herringbone pattern since it has the strongest interlock, which makes it a fantastic choice for driveways. The herringbone pattern is established by the tradesperson by setting the blocks at 45 degrees or 90 degrees to the perpendicular. Both types of herringbone design create an elegant and appealing look for your driveway that can make your home look fantastic to potential buyers. Fill out our online form to speak to up to 4 driveway companies who can provide you with a quote for a block-paved driveway.
The typical cost for a block paving project is about £4,000. For smaller areas of paving, or if you live in a cheaper area of the country, expect to pay approximately £3,000, but for larger areas or within the London area, costs may be as much as £4,600-£5,000.
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£4700
£3525
£2350
£1175
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Labour cost | £2,800 | |
Material cost | £1,000 | |
Waste removal | £200 |
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Ullapool is a town of around 1,500 occupants in Ross and Cromarty, Scottish Highlands, located around 45 miles (72 kilometres) north-west of Inverness. In spite of its small dimension it is the biggest negotiation for several miles about, and a vital port and also tourist location. The North Atlantic Drift passes Ullapool, regulating the temperature. A few Cordyline australis (New Zealand cabbage trees) are expanded in the community and also are typically mistaken for hand trees. The town pushes Loch Broom, on the A835 road from Inverness. The Ullapool River moves through the village. On the east coast of Loch Broom, Ullapool was founded in 1788 as a herring port by the British Fisheries Society. It was developed by Thomas Telford. Prior to then the community was only an irrelevant hamlet of simply over 20 households. The harbour is still the side of the town, used as an angling port, yacht haven, as well as ferryboat port. Ferries cruise to Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides. The village was historically in Cromartyshire, a region made up of many separate territories scattered across northern Ross-shire. Cromartyshire was eliminated and also combined with surrounding Ross-shire in 1890. A lot of the pivotal explorations of the Victorian era that contributed to the advancement of the principle of plate tectonics were made in this area, and there are still routine international geological seminars. It is referred to as the top geological hotspot in Scotland. Parliament granted permission in the 1890s for a railway from Ullapool to the primary Highland network at Garve, yet the scheme was abandoned as a result of not enough funds. The name is perhaps stemmed from the Norse for "Wool farm" or "Ulli's farm".
Ullapool - IV26
Enquiry from: Jonathan S
Start Date: Immediate
Block paving in driveway
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Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.
The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.
Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.
Are you having weed problems on your carefully picked out block pavings? After spending huge bucks to install the block pavings, the last thing any homeowner would want to discover is weed taking over the prized asset. Fortunately, this is a problem that can be effectively handled in a few simple steps provided in this article.
Basically, sealing of block paving is all about prevention of weed growth in the area by total weed removal, putting of sand between the block paving joints and sealing with a good quality sealant. This is a task that’s best left for a reliable professional to guarantee the best results especially if you lack proper training and experience. This guide will give a good insight into the process.
Here are the equipment you’ll need to get started: pressure washer, weed killer, bin bag, broom, small brush, protective gear, sealing roller, spueegee, jointing sand and sealer and DIY sprayer.
lRemove The Weed
• Put on a protective clothing and gloves
• Get a weed disposal bag to clean while you go.
• Apply the selected weed killer on both areas where weeds are present and the absent ones to prevent any growing.
lPressure Washing
• Angle your pressure washer between the gaps. This is done to remove all weeds and debris that are still lying around as well as removing all possible chemical residues to create a thorough clean between the paving slab.
• Leave the washed area to dry.
l Sand The Joints
• Check the weather forecast to ensure there’s about 24 to 48 hours of dryness as its important for both sand and sealant to do a perfect job.
• Put sand between the gaps and push it down with your small brush until its levelled.
lSeal The Gaps
• The sealing process should be done immediately and sanding.
• Clean up the patio
• Perform a test using a small area
• Apply the sealant
• Apply the second of sealant
• Leave to dry for about 2 to 3 hours.
Your contractor should have access to your driveway and a power source. If they have these things, you don’t need to be there while they’re working on your driveway. However, it’s worth being around if you can so you can clarify details and answer any questions.
How To Lay Block Paving
Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.
lDesign
• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.
• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.
lExcavation
• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.
• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.
• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level
• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.
lEdge Restraints
• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.
• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.
• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.
• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.
lSubbase
• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.
• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level
lScreeding
• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.
• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.
• Level the second layer to the correct falls.
lInstallation Of Paving
• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.
• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.
• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.
lFinishing Touches
• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.
• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.
• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.
• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again
• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.
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