Building work | Sound Proofing
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Ruth B
Start Date: Immediate
Sweeping of flue to wood burning stove.
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Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Ruth B
Start Date: Immediate
Sweeping of flue to wood burning stove.
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Paul W
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
customer visited the mydrivewayprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: detached, property owner: owner, work description: repair a small section of joint driveway between our neigh...
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Jan S
Start Date: Immediate
80m2 mineral wool/sheep’s wool loft insulation 100mm thickness roll width doesn’t matter. thanks are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace how many bedrooms do you ...
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Mike G
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 property age: 1970-2000 what is your current source of heating for the renewable incentive:...
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Carlos S
Start Date: Immediate
i have a dripping pipe under the kitchen sink Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Kim G
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Soundproofing a party wall. 2 sections: 2x3.5m and 1.2x3.5 (approx). Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint Please call to appoint
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Sue A
Start Date: Immediate
leak in roof. Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint
Lostwithiel - PL22
Enquiry from: Ruth H
Start Date: Immediate
Chalet type holiday home on site that has garage at present
Fowey - PL23
Enquiry from: Matthew G
Start Date: Immediate
Repair or replace casement windows
Wadebridge - PL27
Enquiry from: Vivian L
Start Date: Immediate
New build starting Summer 2025 require price for external insulation and render.Plans available
Liskeard - PL14
Enquiry from: Andrew A
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation is already in place but needs to be brought up to modern code standards (270 mm)
Bodmin - PL30
Enquiry from: Jacqueline A
Start Date: Immediate
In need of cavity wall insulation for a double garage with a studio flat above and possibly insulation for the floor of the flat.
Wadebridge - PL27
Enquiry from: Brenda D
Start Date: Immediate
Loft boarded out for storage
St. Austell - PL25
Enquiry from: Lionel H
Start Date: Immediate
large commercial building requiring wall insulation
Bodmin - PL30
Enquiry from: Angie C
Start Date: Immediate
Current render seems to be letting in water/causing damp, not sure if needs repairing or replacing, also considering plastic render? In addition, brick walls are missing mortar in places so might nee...
St. Austell - PL25
Enquiry from: Lisa B
Start Date: Immediate
We have a small extension approx 27 SQM requiring Monocouche rendering . Would you be able to quote please? Can send pictures if required .
St. Austell - PL25
Enquiry from: Brett C
Start Date: Immediate
initial price estimate (appreciate a site survey will be required to firm this up) for application of Weber monocouche rendering to a new single storey extension. The dimensions of the extension ar...
St. Austell - PL26
Enquiry from: Kate L
Start Date: Immediate
We have a house and the front of the house the render is cracked and needs repairing and repainting. I have attached a photo of the front of the house. Could you call discuss a quote? My number is ***...
Par - PL24
Enquiry from: Nicole S
Start Date: Immediate
I need some external wall insulation for one section of a concrete block extension and possible insulated rendering of another 2 storey section of the extension.
St. Austell - PL25
Enquiry from: Jake J
Start Date: Immediate
customer in st. austell areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for house extension.confirmed interest via email at 12/02/2024 20:01.please call to arrange app...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceIf you’re currently experiencing some structural issues with your building or property and you’ve heard a thing or two about the several benefits associated with getting underpinning done, you may be wondering if underpinning might just be the answer to your worries. Well, one thing you should when it comes to underpinning is the fact that, while there are some structural issues that may actually warrant an underpinning job, there are also some situations that can not be fixed by underpinning. In this post, we’re going to consider the events whereby underpinning of your house will be required. Let’s take a look!
First and foremost, you should know that underpinning isn’t required for issues related to slab heave. Footing movements which are likely to reverse normally occur when the content of the soil moisture changes unevenly which gives rise to slab heave. This movement results for a reversible effect.
Generally, underpinning is done to remedy problems related with the movement of the footings of a building or property, but as stated above – not all movements require underpinning. So, when is underpinning required? More often than not, a situation that’s resolved by underpinning is the event whereby the footings of a building or structure drops or subside as a result of some reasons that are irreversible. For example, footing movements caused by a footing set on a soft or loose soil which may be irreversible.
In the event whereby the footings of your house haven’t been installed as deep as required during the initial construction, then you will need to have your building underpinned to make it more stable. If you’re also looking to increase the load on your foundation like adding another storey, you may also need to have your house underpinned to support the extra weight added.
Rendering of a house is one of those projects that can greatly improve the visual appeal of your home, enhance it’s energy efficiency, protect the brickwork from the elements and ultimately, add value to your home. Generally, the cost of rendering a house normally costs within the range of £25 to £70 per metre square, while the average cost house rendering costs stands at about £40 per square metre. Therefore, a 3 bedroom semi detached house will cost within the range of £4000 to about £5000.
The total cost of rendering a house is determined by a wide range of factors. These factors includes the following:
✓ Type of the rendering. There are three main types of rendering which includes sand and cement rendering, monocouche rendering as well as acrylic or silicone rendering. However, re-rendering applies to sand and cement sooner and it’ll also have to be painted every 3 to 6 years. Consequently, longer term cost can be higher when compared to the other types.
✓ Ease of access. Where your contractor will have to work around obstacles like shrubs or conservatory, this can make the cost a bit higher as it’ll take longer time to complete.
✓ Prep work. If the contractor needs to fill some cracks or perhaps an old mortar requires tuck pointing before rendering can be started, this will also affect the cost.
✓ Scaffolding. In the event whereby the job requires the use of scaffolding and you’ll have to hire one as a different cost, then the price will be higher.
✓ Your location. Due to the high standards of living and higher demands in areas like London or the Southeast, prices in these regions are usually higher than that of the other regions like Midlands and North.
Sand is a very important element in bricklaying as far as a mortar mix is concerned. Generally, the quality of the sand is the major factor determining the quality of a plaster mix or mortar mix. It’s recommended that the sand should have enough ‘fines’ (- 75 micron material) to get a good plastic mix with a water content that’s less than 350 litres/m3. Generally, a mortar mix or plaster mix is made within the range of one bag of cement to 200 to 300 litres of damp sand.
Apart from experience the next best indicator of the quality of sand is a field test. In other words, if you do not have the required training or experience in bricklaying, the best bet to determine the amount of sand for a good quality mix is by carrying out a field test. Let’s have a look!
• Get about 50kg of sand and air dry it.
• Scoop 25kg of the sand, 5 kg of cement as well as litres of water ( with 1 litre and 1.5 litres of the water in different containers).
• Mix the cement and sand to form a smooth, uniform and consistent colour.
• One after the other, mix the the sand - cement mixture in the three quantities of water. Do this until you’re able to achieve a mix that’s workable enough to use as plaster.
With that done, you should take note that if 5 litres of water is sufficient then the quality and quantity of the sand is perfect. If you’d require 6 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then both the quality and quantity of the sand is average. However, if you’d need 7 litres of water to get a mix workable as a plaster, then the quality of the sand is poor. Any requirement of water above 7 litres implies a very poor quality of sand.
The importance of underpinning a house cannot be overemphasized. Firstly, what is underpinning? Well, underpinning is simply the act of reinforcing, repairing, strengthening or improving the depth of an existing foundation by lowering the footing to ensure that it rests more on more reliable and supportive soil. Not only does this method help to strengthen your building and preserve its structural integrity, but it also does increase your property’s value and gives you peace of mind knowing your property is safe. If you’re thinking about underpinning your house, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a reputable structural engineer. The latter is more advisable as the method involves a lot of specialized knowledge, skills and tools to guarantee a successful outcome. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process involved in underpinning a house. Let’s take a look!
To get started, you should know that concrete underpinning features excavating pier footings around the building at about 2 to 3 metres distance between each other. In some cases, underpins can be installed from within the house. The footings of the underpin should go very deep into the underlying soil in such a way that fully supports the weight of the building or structure. Once done, now proceed to attaching the new footing to the building. You can achieve this by excavating underneath the existing footing to make for a stronger prop. Individual prop and pier arrangement is then strengthened using strong steel bars. Once completed, the concrete is then poured.
A professional underpinning contractor will make sure there’s sufficient space left between the existing footings and the new underpins as this space will ensure that the new underpins can be easily used to jack up the house and level it once the poured concrete cures.
Wall rendering is basically a process which involves the application of sand, cement or polymer covering to a home’s exterior in such a way that enhances its look while also offering an improved stability. The process is a perfect solution for several exterior concerns mainly due to the support its able to provide. It’s highly beneficial for older homes whose walls may suffer from poor quality because of wear over time, while it’s also greatly advantageous for newer homes as it increases their stability while also enhancing their visual appeal.
Knowing how to apply render is a great skill to have with your home’s upkeep in mind. The project can be done quite easily by any competent and confident DIYer. However if you lack any of those attributes, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the wall rendering process.
✓ Prepare the walls. This involves examining the wall, repairing any structural defects as well as stabilizing any movements to prevent the render finish from failing.
✓ External details. This includes the removal of bargeboards, rainwater, soil pipes, alarm boxes and all other external details.
✓ Insulation. In the event whereby external wall insulation is to be fitted, this is the stage to do so.
✓ Developing a foundation for the render to fix to. Apply a render mesh over the insulation, bedded into the first base coat layer of render.
✓ Building up the render.
✓ Render finishes. There are a wide range of colour options as well as various finishes available from very smooth to textured. However, you should note that thin coat render systems are usually designed to be self coloured.
✓ Final finishes. This involves the re-application of the external rainwater, soil pipes and the other external details.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
When its impossible to build out and create more space sideways, why can’t you look upwards? As more and more homeowners in the UK are carrying out their loft conversion project, one question that keeps popping up is the amount of value the loft conversion can add to their homes. However, this is a question that is impossible to provide a single and precise answer to. This is because the value that’ll be generated by a loft conversion is largely dependent on a wide range of influencing factors. To give you a vague idea of the loft conversion value to a property, we’ve put forward a research carried out by industry experts so you can know what you’re in for.
Nationwide carried out a research which shows clearly that a loft conversion including an additional bedroom as part of the building plan will increase a house’s value by up to 21 percent. Since the number of rooms a house has is one of the main metrics for house valuations, loft conversion comes in pretty handy as it’s a great and easy way to convert your house from a 4 bedroom house to a 5 bedroom house prior to sale.
Apart from the financial value aspect, loft conversion also adds more value to your lifestyle which is very unlike nearly other financial investments you can make. More space in your house automatically means more storage or a new room as you wish. A new room can be for a growing family or probably to serve as a guest room. It can also be used as a study space or even an office especially with the rapidly growing rate of people working from home. With loft conversion, the possibilities in terms of value are simply endless!
With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.
An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.
In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.
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