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Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!

• Clear out all clutter. This involves taking out all the rubbish and clutter from the loft. In order to work effectively, you’ll need a totally clear and empty loft space.
• Ensure that there’s sufficient insulation. The importance of a good ventilation cannot be overstated. Poor ventilation will result in forming of condensation and this condensation can make the roof timbers rot and compromise the structural integrity of the entire roof. If there are no roof windows which is the easiest way to provide a loft ventilation, the next best option would be to follow the loft floor along to the point where the roof comes down to meet it. There should be a gap at this point, also referred to as the eaves, between the outside wall and the underside of the roof.
• Measure your loft area. Take a measurement of the loft space in order to calculate the amount of insulation as well as the type you need. If you’re not sure, always get more that it’s required as skimming on the amount you use will only back fire in form of increased energy costs
• Check for water pipes.

To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.

A patio is an outdoor space which can be used for a variety of stuffs which includes fun time with family and friends, reading time or just relaxing as the fresh breeze blows. With all these benefits and more, it’s becomes more obvious that there’s a need to keep your patio in a tip top condition at all times. If otherwise, you may not be able to enjoy your patio to your satisfaction and probably, for as long as you would want. You simply have to provide it with a regular maintenance which involves inspecting and identifying the damages that needs to be repaired before it gets out of hand. Fortunately, the minor repairs can be done by yourself if you’re confident enough. However, for bigger damages it’s advisable to call in a professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the patio reparation process.

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing the problem piece gently and carefully. If there’s a piece you think can still be useful, store it in the re-use pile or you can start a new one. Once you’re done removing the pieces, the next thing to do would be to start removing anything that’s unwanted from the damaged area like debris, unwanted soil etc, and start sand fitting with some fresh sand. This should be levelled out to ensure there’s no bumps.

✓ With the sand down, you can start by putting the pieces back in together. This should be done gently to avoid any further damage. Do this until your patio

✓

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.

Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.

For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.

There are two main types of cladding. The first is material cladding, which refers to layers of a material that are attached to the external walls. The material used could be timber, PVC, stone, or other materials. The second type of cladding is rendering, where a coat of plaster is applied to the wall.

Insulating your loft roof comes with a wide range of benefits. Not only do you get to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house for longer, but you’ll also get to cut down on your heating bills. If you wish to insulate your loft roof, you’ve come to the right place! This process can be very tedious and time consuming especially if you don’t what you’re doing or lack the required confidence to pull it off. It’s advisable to hire the services of a reputable professional who can guarantee the best results for help and also save you some time and money that can come from potentially costly errors.

Before you start rolling out, you’d have to make sure that all cracks, gaps and holes in the ceiling are filled with either a standard filler or decorators caulk. You can also clean between between the gaps in the joists thoroughly. And finally, check for hazards that can cause you problems before getting stated.

• Remember to leave ventilation gaps as you start from the eaves. Then work towards the loft’s centre, starting from the point furthest from the hatch.
• Lay the first layer between the joists which should be 100 mm and then the subsequent layer should be 170 mm to make it up to the recommended 270 mm.
• Carry the electric cables above the insulation and work around visible light fittings.
• Cut the roll in the centre of the floor when rolling out from the eaves on both sides with the help of a craft knife. Ensure that there are no gaps between the insulation and the joists’ edges.
• Lag pipes as you go in order to prevent walking over the insulation to get back to them.
• Ensure that the loft is totally insulated
• Insulate the hatch.

Asides the questions relating to planning permission of a loft conversion as well as the total cost of completing a loft conversion project, this is perhaps the most common question on the loft conversion subject matter. Before making an investment decision, many homeowners will want to know just how disruptive a loft conversion is. Well, we’ve all heard the several horror stories when loft conversion builder with dirty boots tramples all over the fresh and just-acquired shag pile or the noise of the construction loud enough to annoy neighbours from four blocks away or an obvious shortage of teabags, sugar and lots more. Good news is, the disruption of loft conversion is not as bad as people make out. Let’s have a look at how it works!

Just like all other major building projects, a loft conversion is disruptive to your property. However, no two loft conversions are the same, therefore some are certain to be more drastic and invasive than others. In the long run, the project is worth the stress and inconveniences caused and in most cases, it’s usually a very good investment.

Normally, an average loft conversion is expected to last for about 9 to 12 weeks (depending on the complexity of the loft conversion project some might take longer). Some of the factors that affects the duration of a project includes the type of the loft, the design of the loft as well as the style of the property.

Generally, a loft conversion is a lot less disruptive than say completely moving a home. It all has to do with how you’re able to deal with it as a person. And besides, the effect it’s going to have to a large extent depends on the company you hire. A good company will always look to ensure to keep disruptions to a minimal when carrying out the loft conversion project.

Do you want your house to be built using brick? Or perhaps you just require the professional services of a bricklayer. Regardless of your bricklaying needs, the cost charged depends on each job as every job is unique. Bricklayers generally look at each task individually and charges based on the complexity of each. We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of the costs charged by bricklayers. Let’s have a look!

Generally, bricklayers charge either based on a daily rate or a fixed price for a particular amount of bricks ( usually a thousand bricks or 10 - 12 metres square). On the average, an experienced bricklayer can charge within a range of £150 to £200 daily rate and if a labour is needed for the job, an additional £60 to £100 may be included to get the job completed in a quick and fast manner. If the quoting is done based on the number of bricks to be incorporated, then a thousand bricks will be quoted in between £350 to £450 which should be completed in a couple of days.

You should however take note that most times, the bricklayer’s cost will depend on the amount of work involved in the project. As a result, a more tedious and challenging project will most definitely cost more than a simpler one. Examples of some difficult projects that’s likely to cost more are hard to reach areas, difficult sites as well as second storeys which are considered to be more challenging than single storey buildings. What’s more? The complexity of the project is also a great cost factor. While some projects are basically direct and straightforward, others involve curves and more complex designs which will ultimately make the cost jump up.