Question 1

Do I need planning permission for a shed?

Accepted Answer

Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission: The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden It’s not in front of your house The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high There’s no veranda or balcony The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions: If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.

Question 2

How to build a shed base?

Accepted Answer

You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout Building a shed base from concrete Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2 Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.

Question 3

How to build decking on a slope?

Accepted Answer

You might think that building decking on a slope is a no-go, but it’s actually a great way to help you make use of your garden when the ground is sloping. It will provide you with a level surface that you can BBQ on as well as dine alfresco without finding that your meal is rolling down the table. But how do you build decking on a slope? Our guide in the FAQ above, ‘How to build a raised deck’, is the perfect solution – but we’ll break it down here if you just want to get an idea of what’s involved. Dig out the area If you’re laying on soil or turf, you’ll need to dig it out. Dig down and remove all the turf from the area and ensure that there are no weeds or stones in the area you’re going to build your decking on. Since you’re building on a slope, it will be hard to get it level, but dig out to a depth of 50mm and lay weed-control fabric with gravel over the top. Add posts and set with concrete Make holes for posts and add them in, ensuring they’re longer than you need. Make sure they’re level, then fill the holes with a concrete mix to set them in place. Build the outer frame Make sure you always work at the top of the slope when you’re building your decking, and measure where the highest point of the decking will be. Secure the 4 sides of the outer frame and factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Add joists Secure joists along your frame at 400mm intervals. If you get to the last joist and there will be more than a 400mm gap left at the end, add in an extra one for support. Lay your deck boards Screw your deck boards to the joists, ensuring that the deck boards are running in the opposite direction to the joists. For timber boards, you need to make sure you leave an expansion gap of 5-8mm. These steps should give you an idea of whether you want to have a go at building decking on a slope, or whether you want to leave it to the pros.

Question 4

Where should I put my garden shed?

Accepted Answer

Try to put your shed in open space, away from trees, bushes and other buildings. This will help to protect it from falling branches and sap. It will also mean that you can access all sides of the shed for repair and maintenance purposes. Make sure you take a look at garden shed planning rules before you pick a final spot for your shed.

Question 5

How much is decking?

Accepted Answer

How much decking costs depends on the type of material you go for, how big you want your decking to be and where you live in the country. But typically, the cost of decking is between £1,200 - £1,800. The most popular material for decking is pre-treated softwood, which will set you back around £1,000 for 15m2. Hardwood is more expensive but is more durable, and will cost approximately £2,000 for the same amount. Homeowners are also beginning to choose composite decking, which is made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, and is low-maintenance and eco-friendly. This will cost around £1,600 for 15m2, while uPVC which is also a low-maintenance option costs around £600. People tend to choose composite over uPVC because it looks more like natural timber. If you’re a competent DIYer, you might want to have a go at laying decking yourself which will set you back around £1,000 for a standard softwood timber deck. We think it’s worth paying the extra £600 for a professional to lay your decking, since they will be able to do it much more quickly. If you do want to try it yourself, we recommend leaving at least a whole weekend open to do it, but it’s likely to take you longer. Factor in the possibility of having to take time off work to complete it and it might be more cost-effective to leave it to the pros.

Question 6

How to build a deck frame?

Accepted Answer

Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need: Decking joists Coach screws Coach bolts Combi drill Socket set A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber Pencil Decking preservative Sandpaper or sander Build your subframe Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame. IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.

Question 7

How to insulate a shed?

Accepted Answer

If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.

Question 8

How much decking do I need?

Accepted Answer

How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2 Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2 Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short. If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.

Carpenter job	Carpenter cost in 2025
Kitchen Fitting in Kingsbridge	£975-£2,495
Carpenters and joiners in Kingsbridge	£375-£575
Plasterboard dry lining in Kingsbridge	£638-£978
Wood flooring in Kingsbridge	£750-£1,150
Wooden decking in Kingsbridge	£1,125-£1,725
Garden shed in Kingsbridge	£450-£690
Wooden window repair in Kingsbridge	£320-£480

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