Find a Landscaper you can trust in Waterlooville.

When it comes to landscaping issues, lawn mushrooms are a very common occurrence. If you’re one of the several home and property owners who simply loves to have a great looking grass, finding mushrooms in your lawn can be a truly frustrating experience. However, with the right skills and knowledge the problem of mushroom growing in lawns can be resolved. If you don’t have the confidence required to carry out this task, then we’d recommend you call in a professional landscaper for help in order to avoid costly errors and unnecessary expenses. In this post, we’re going to put you through the processes involved in lawn mushroom removal.

First and foremost, let’s consider why mushrooms grow on lawns. To determine why mushrooms are growing on your lawn, simply examine the state of your lawn. Lawn mushrooms thrive in damp, shaded and organic waste rich environments. Figure out if you have drainage problems with supports the mushroom challenge, organic waste to be removed or perhaps you have areas on your yard that happens to be very shady.

In order to get rid of mushroom in your lawn, you’ll have to resolve your yard problems. If your lawn is very wet, try to find out if there are things you can do to minimize the moisture. You can reduce the decaying organic materials in your yard by raking your grass clippings, replacing existing mulch or detaching your lawn. If your yard happens to be quite shady, check if some targeted pruning can help to enable the access of more light to your yard. Also, you can apply a fungicide to eliminate the existing lawn mushrooms.

Overseeding your lawn is an essential part of keeping your lawn looking its best. It’s also known as reseeding, and helps to repair damaged areas that might have been caused by a harsh summer or winter. It’s best to overseed your lawn during the spring or autumn, when the temperature is mild but there’s still a fair amount of rainy days to help the grass seed grow. To prepare your lawn for overseeding, you should do the following things around 1-2 weeks beforehand:

• Weed the lawn by hand or using a weedkiller (make sure you leave enough time to do this according to the instructions)
• Remove stones and large twigs
• Scarify your lawn to remove moss and loosen soil
• Fertilise the soil with a quick-release fertiliser

Once you’ve taken these steps, you’re ready to start overseeding your lawn.

1. Mow your lawn to around 25mm in length.
2. Water the soil so it’s moist but not too damp.
3. Sprinkle your new grass seed evenly over the lawn, but apply more in patchy or thin areas. Generally gardeners say to use 35g per square metre, but up to 50g on thin areas.

When you’re finished, give your lawn a final water, and do this every day until the new grass is established – particularly if it’s not rained. Just make sure you don’t overwater it. It’s also a good idea not to walk on your lawn for around 2-3 weeks after you’ve overseeded it.

If there’s a fence dividing yours and your neighbour’s properties that needs maintaining or replacing, you’ll want to know who owns it. Start by checking your deeds to see if there’s an existing boundary agreement. If there isn’t, have a chat with them to see if you can come to an arrangement yourselves.

There are a number of reasons why disputes can arise between neighbours – all of which can be quite frustrating and challenging. In some cases, this can even cause serious friction and lead to an all-out war. When it comes to the topic of fencing, one of the most common questions that arises is whether or not you can attach something to your neighbour’s fence. If you’re having the same concern, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into this to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is no, you can’t attach anything to your neighbour’s fence. If your neighbour owns the fence and you’ve not obtained any permission to do so, then you’re not allowed to attach anything to the fence. Otherwise, you can get into serious trouble with your neighbour as well as the law. If you want to attach something or have the wall on your side painted using another colour, then there’s the need to get a permission from the owner. And while doing so, make sure you’re provided with a written permission so as to avoid problems later in the future.

Another question that mostly arises is what if your neighbour declines your request, is there anything you can do about it? Well, the answer to this is no, there’s nothing you can do about it unless you’re able to convince your neighbour otherwise. And you should know starting a neighbour war or being spiteful can only make matters worse for you.

There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.

There are quite a few different types of garden fencing that are readily available, so you’ll have plenty to choose from. If you’ve got a strict budget, waney edge panel fencing is a good option. It’s made up of horizontal wood strips and is generally the cheapest type of fencing. Another good option is closed feather-edge panels. These are a really strong type of fence, made up of concrete posts and panels of vertical strips of wood.You can also get more decorative types of fencing with combinations of vertical and horizontal wood strips.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar