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Are you having weed problems on your carefully picked out block pavings? After spending huge bucks to install the block pavings, the last thing any homeowner would want to discover is weed taking over the prized asset. Fortunately, this is a problem that can be effectively handled in a few simple steps provided in this article.

Basically, sealing of block paving is all about prevention of weed growth in the area by total weed removal, putting of sand between the block paving joints and sealing with a good quality sealant. This is a task that’s best left for a reliable professional to guarantee the best results especially if you lack proper training and experience. This guide will give a good insight into the process.

Here are the equipment you’ll need to get started: pressure washer, weed killer, bin bag, broom, small brush, protective gear, sealing roller, spueegee, jointing sand and sealer and DIY sprayer.

lRemove The Weed

• Put on a protective clothing and gloves

• Get a weed disposal bag to clean while you go.

• Apply the selected weed killer on both areas where weeds are present and the absent ones to prevent any growing.

lPressure Washing

• Angle your pressure washer between the gaps. This is done to remove all weeds and debris that are still lying around as well as removing all possible chemical residues to create a thorough clean between the paving slab.

• Leave the washed area to dry.

l Sand The Joints

• Check the weather forecast to ensure there’s about 24 to 48 hours of dryness as its important for both sand and sealant to do a perfect job.

• Put sand between the gaps and push it down with your small brush until its levelled.

lSeal The Gaps

• The sealing process should be done immediately and sanding.

• Clean up the patio

• Perform a test using a small area

• Apply the sealant

• Apply the second of sealant

• Leave to dry for about 2 to 3 hours.

No, pattern imprinted concrete shouldn’t be slippery. Most good driveway installers will add a special anti-slip agent to the sealant before they brush it onto your driveway, so it will stop it from being slippery.

It’s important to ask a driveway company how they will seal your driveway when you get a quote from them. If an untrustworthy company seals your driveway badly, it can cause a thick and extremely slippery surface, so it’s vital that you ask any contractor what their procedure is before you engage them.

It’s also important to remember that pattern imprinted concrete isn’t a ‘non-slip’ surface – it’s just not slippery. You could still slip over on a concrete driveway, just like you could on tarmac or a block paved driveway. Also, once you’ve walked and driven over your driveway for a few months, its skid and slip resistance will increase as it weathers and builds up tiny specs of dirt on it. Pattern imprinted concrete is often used in high footfall areas in places like shops, fast food restaurants and theme parks, so if there was a significant slip risk these businesses wouldn’t use it.

You might think that you could ask your contractor not to seal the driveway to make it less slippery, but it could actually do the opposite. By sealing pattern imprinted concrete, it means that moss and algae is much less likely to grow, which can be extremely slippery to walk on if it’s left to its own devices. If moss does form on your driveway, the sealed surface is much easier to clean as you can simply pressure wash it away; this is not as easy to do on a non-sealed surface.

Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.

Do you want to know the level of thickness a driveway concrete slab should be? Well, you are not alone! So many other home owners ask this question on a regular basis and reasonably so. In order to prevent cracks on your concrete over time, it’s crucial to ensure an even thickness across your driveway concrete. To determine the necessary thickness of your driveway concrete, there are some questions that must be answered. These includes:

• What’s the number of vehicles you expect to have on your driveway?

• Do you plan on parking heavy, industrial vehicles on it?

For a standard passenger vehicle driveway, you’d have a driveway spanning 8 to 9 feet in width as well as 15 to 18 feet for double width. The thickness for this type of driveway concrete is usually 4 inches of non-reinforced pavement. Ultimately, this enables you to park everyday family cars on it without having to worry about it cracking due to the car’s weight. Also in order to prevent cracks, it’s expected that the driveway should be sloped towards the street as this would make sure that there’s a run off of water especially for areas that experience lots of flooding. In addition, there’s also the need to install joints to prevent cracking. For the standard 4 inch thick driveway, these joints should be positioned about 10 feet apart.

Finally for parking heavy industrial vehicles, your concrete driveway is expected to be thicker in order to cope with the added weight. Typically, the concrete driveway will require a thickness of about 5 inches. The additional one inch may not sound much, but the fact is this can increase the load carrying capacity of the concrete driveway by up to 50 percent.

Generally, a paved driveway is always subjected to regular usage and yours isn’t likely to be an exception, otherwise you won’t be here. Regular usage automatically necessitates regular maintenance of the driveway in order to extend its lifespan, make your property safer and add more value to it. This maintenance will involve a frequent inspection of the paved driveway so as to identify and repair divots, cracks as well as rutting. Paved driveways usually have a lifespan ranging between 15 to 20 years, but this can only be guaranteed when backed by regular maintenance activities. Failure to provide your paved driveway with a regular maintenance will lead to a rapid deterioration within just a couple of years after installation.

The issues commonly faced by paved driveways is usually different based on several factors such as the weather, your location, your property’s sub base as well as some other elements. The ability to identify the problems and solve or repair them on time is key to success while it’s also save you some time and money. In this article we’re going to look at how to go about do-it-yourself tasks that involves minor cracks. More intense damages are advised to be handled only by professionals.

✓ Prepare the area. Clear the debris, weed the plants or vegetation (if any).

✓ Use a strong spray from a garden hose to wash clean the cracks

✓ In the event whereby the crack is deep, simply fill it until it reach about a quarter inch of the surface with sand.

✓ Tamp down the sand to make it more compact.

✓ Apply a patching compound to the surface of the cracked paved driveway.

✓ Leave it for some time to cure.

✓ Once cured, you can then apply your sealant.

• Where in the country you live
• What colour you choose
• What pattern you choose
• Whether you choose a standard or a higher-quality concrete

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.