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Whether you’re liable for a leaking roof in a commercial property will depend on your ownership status and any contracts. Of course, if you own a standalone commercial property, it would make it your responsibility to repair to leaking roof. But if you own an office within a building, you should check your paperwork to see whether you are responsible for some or all of a leaking roof.

If you’re a tenant in a commercial property, things get a bit more complicated. Lots of commercial leases are FRI, or Full Repairing and Insuring leases, which means that the tenant is responsible for all external and internal maintenance and insuring the building. It means that it’s vital that you read through your tenancy agreement in full before signing it and seek legal advice if you think you need it. If your lease is an FRI lease, you are liable for a leaking roof in your commercial property.

It’s important to ensure that you have a schedule of condition for the property, which will mean that you only have to restore the commercial property back to the condition that it was in when you took over. It’s also worth getting the roof inspected before you sign the lease, as if there is any damage before you sign the landlord may be responsible.

The best way to avoid having to pay for a leaking roof in a commercial property is prevention. If you are liable for repairs and maintenance, make sure you have the roof inspected regularly by a reputable company to avoid having to pay for costly repairs when disaster strikes.

How To Replace A Flat Roof

Is it high time you replaced your flat roof with a new one? If it’s time, then you probably shouldn’t waste another minute! Flat roofs come with multiple upsides and happens to be a lot more affordable than many other options (especially for starters). Not only do they add to your home’s curb appeal and requires a relatively low labour costs as there are minimal risks involved, but they’re also more accessible for maintenance purposes and aren’t as exposed to damage as a pitched roof. However, we’re not here to discuss the various benefits of installing a flat roof, but rather tell you how to install one. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a trustworthy professional that can guarantee the best results.

• Wipe the entire roof system clean.

• Detach and replace rotted roof sheathings.

• Detach and replace rotted fascia

• Hire a qualified air conditioning professional to disconnect the existing AC units.

• Introduce new aluminium air conditioning stands and secure against the deck.

• Let you qualified air conditioning professional reconnect the existing AC units.

• Put in place the new air conditioning quick disconnects.

• Attach EPS fanfold insulation in such a way to cover the surface of the entire roof and secure it firmly in place.

• Attach the tie-in roof materials where necessary.

• Attach roofing membrane to cover the entire area of the roofing.

• Attach membrane to the entire roof’s perimeter.

• Attach new perimeter flashings (fascia bar, fascia cap and drip edge), secured on the centre at 6. Make use of a good sealant to secure the fascia bar or fascia cap’s top flange.

• Attach boots on plumbing seal and stacks.

• Identify the existing vent stacks and seal, and put curbs

• Put safety walk pad network from the access point of the roof to the air conditioning units.

• Attach rooftop signs for roof traffic personnel

• Tidy up and clear out the debris

How much a flat roof costs to repair depends on a few factors. Is your flat roof on a garage or an extension? What is the flat roof made from? It’s always best to get a few quotes to compare prices, but we’ll give you a rough idea here. If your flat roof was installed in the 1990s or earlier, it’s likely that you’ll see some leaks or damage soon. Felt flat roofs used to be installed completely flat, which meant that water couldn’t run off. That means that water pools and can create moss and damp. Sun exposure can also damage the felt, causing damage and eventually holes that lead to leaks. If you’re lucky enough to have got away with just needing a flat roof repair, this should set you back an average of £100 per square metre. If your roof is sagging due to the weight of it putting pressure on the timber frame, you might need additional joists – which could cost anywhere between £1,000 and £2,000, depending on how many you need. But if the problem is due to the internal part of the roof system becoming waterlogged, you could be looking at over £5,000. If your roof is severely leaking or the timber joists are rotting, it might be more cost effective to replace your flat roof. If you keep forking out for repairs, it will eventually be cheaper just to replace the whole thing, which could cost around £2,000.

A pitched roof is a type of roof that is defined to have a sloping surface that has an angle that is greater than 20 degrees. Pitched roofs offer a more classical appearance. They remain the most communal and effective answer in wet and cold weathers to guarantee all-out protection.

Eaves

In the roof, the lower part of the inclined roof which is prominent outside the external face of the wall. The chief purpose of eaves is to pour the rainwater from the roof straight on the exterior wall. It also provides protection from sunlight. Eaves are sometimes decorated to an architectural beauty.

Gable

The Three-sided higher part of the wall at the end of a ridge roof.

Flashing

A band of impermeable material, typically metal, used to eliminate water from the intersection between a roof covering and another part of the structure. Flashings are provided to stop moisture from inflowing the wall and roof through joints in copings, parapet wall, and other infiltrations through the roof plane.

Hip

The Hip is defined as the exterior angle, which is generally greater than 180 degrees, which is formed at the inclined ridge of the roof slopes.

Ridge

The ridge is defined as the horizontal intersection made by the rising roof surfaces that are inclined in opposite directions.

Purlins

Purlins are the horizontal members which are laid on the principal rafters which help to support the common rafter of a roof. This is usually done when the span is large. Purlins are made from wood or steel. The top surfaces of the purlins intend to be unvarying and plane.

Fascia

This is the wooden board that is fixed to the feet of the common rafter at eaves. The Fascia helps the lowest ends of the roof covering material to rest on it.

Rafter

One of the major structural components of a pitched roof is a rafter. The rafter generally begins for the support of the roof to the ridge or hip. The purlin is supported by equally spaced rafters used side by side.

How To Replace Flat Roof Felt

Also referred to as tar paper, roofing felt is installed underneath the roof’s shingles to help deny water access to your home. Installing the roofing felt in overlapping layers builds a water barrier in situations whereby the weather damages or blows away the shingles. Although the application of a roofing felt on a flat roof is relatively easier and safer than working on a peaked roof, it’s advisable to take enough care and precautions. If you lack proper training and experience for this task, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save you from further headaches especially in cases whereby unfortunate errors are made. This step by step guide will give you a good insight into the flat roof felt replacement process.

• Take a measurement of the width and length of the roof.

• Calculate the square footage by multiplying the numbers.

• Multiply the square footage gotten by three (it’s advisable to install three layers of roofing felt to create a really strong weather barrier).

• Use a claw hammer to remove the existing roofing felt.

• Use utility knife to cut the new felt to fit the length of the roof.

• Place the first piece along the roof’s edge and use a hammer tacker to tack the felt in place with staples or galvanized nails and hammer.

• Put the staples or nails at every 6 inches along the side touching the roof’s edge as well as down the short sides.

• Repeat the same process for the second piece, laying it out beside the first row of felt.

• Cut a piece of felt to the appropriate length using a utility knife to begin the second layer of roofing felt, and cutting it in half, lengthwise.

• Apply construction adhesive along the first row using a trowel.

• Press the first piece for the second layer onto the adhesive. Repeat this process until the roof is covered with a second layer

• Apply construction adhesive over the second layer to install the third layer. Begin with a full piece of felt without cutting it in half.

• Overlap each piece by 2 inches until you’ve completely installed the third layer.

It is constantly important to consider your skill degree as well as your physical capacity when picking to tackle a Do It Yourself task. Generally, sun tunnel setup is not made to be tried by anybody without experience and training for the following reasons:

• You will likely need professional devices which may include scaffolding.
• It is really unsafe to deal with a roofing as a result of the danger of falling.
• Your sun tunnel have to be appropriately secured to avoid leaks as well as drafts coming through your roofing.
• This installment is not a straightforward, easy job. It involves eliminating roofing ceramic tiles, attaching a panel, thoroughly installing the passage and also even more.

In general, no – you don’t need planning permission for a Velux window. The Planning Portal says that you don’t need to apply for planning permission to install a roof window if the following conditions are met:

• A roof window must not protrude more than 150 millimetres above the existing roof plane
No roof window or any other alteration can be higher than the highest part of the roof or stand out above the roof ridge
• Side-facing windows must have obscure glazing to protect privacy of neighbours and, if they open, they must be 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which they are installed

You don’t need to apply for planning permission for a roof window because they are covered under permitted development rights. However, if you’re a leaseholder or you live in a building where your local authority has made an Article 4 Direction, you will have to apply. Usually, an Article 4 Direction is made when you live in a conservation area where any external home improvements could affect the character and look of the area. Luckily, there are special Velux windows that are designed to be more likely to be accepted by your local planning authority. They’re called conservation windows and, although there’s still no guarantee that they will be accepted, they are designed to look more traditional. Even if you don’t need planning permission for your roof window, you still need to follow any relevant building regulations for your local authority. The most important parts for Velux windows are section J and section L of building regulations, which refer to energy efficiency, thermal insulation and fire protection.

Velux windows actually refer to one brand of roof window, which are windows that sit in your roof space and allow light and ventilation into your loft. But how do you install a Velux window? If you’re a competent DIYer, it’s not as difficult as you might think.

You can normally install roof windows entirely from the inside, so you don’t need to get up on your roof or hire costly scaffolding. They come with detailed installation instructions, so as long as you follow them you shouldn’t have much trouble.

Before you start, you’ll need to read up on the Building Regulations and Planning Permission laws. Speak to your local Building Control department if you have any questions.

Firstly, prepare the opening by removing enough tiles or slates from the roof. There’s no need to go out on the roof – access them by cutting away the felt underneath which will give you access to the tiles and battens. Cut away one of the battens from under a tile, then you can slide all the tiles into the roof space. You’ll need to cut away the roof timbers to make the right size opening, then add more timbers to strengthen the ones that are left.

Next, remove the opening sash from the new roof window then fit the frame into the new opening using the brackets provided with the window. Then fit roof flashing between the new window and the roof so you don’t get any leaks. Then lay your tiles back in position around the new Velux window; you’ll probably have to cut some to shape which you can do with an angle grinder. Always cut them on the ground, not in position on the roof.

Lastly, fit the sash back onto the window and you’re done!

If this sounds like too much hard work, plenty of window installers will be able to help you fit a Velux window and will probably be able to provide a much cleaner finish.