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How Much Is A New Flat Roof

What is a home without a roof to keep out the elements? Being the first line of defence against intense sun, rain, wind and more, implies they require enough care and attention to keep them in a top condition. Therefore, whether you need a new flat roof or just to replace some tiles, you’d be interested in knowing how much it would cost you to get a new roof before you start making the necessary plans. Here, we’ll give you an idea on the cost of a new flat roof and how you can estimate yours based on your unique requirements.

The size of your roof as well as the material to be used are the two main determinants of any flat roof project’s cost. For instance, a four bedroom detached home’s slate roof will be more expensive than a felted flat roof for a small or standard garage. Generally, in the UK, the average cost for replacing a flat roof will range between £5000 to £6000. However, if you’re on a tight budget and looking for the cheapest possible option, you’ll get a felt flat roof only on a garage at about £1000 to £1500. Meanwhile if you want to replace the entire slate tiles of a large family home, the cost can jump up to a range of £11000 to £13000.

Other factors that plays a key role in the determination of a new flat roof’s cost includes the location, labour as well as materials. For instance, a new flat roof price is likely to be higher in London and the south east than the other regions of the country. Also, labour may cost you around £150 to £250 per worker on a daily basis.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

In the UK, fireplaces are a very common addition to homes and property and reasonably so. Not only do they represent a great source of heat, but they’re also quite timeless in their beauty, thereby adding more value to your property. Now every fireplace possesses some sort of chimney, asides from the ones that are ventless. And while you might not be aware, every chimney poses a number of dangers which includes being a fire hazard and can also lead to carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of improper or lack maintenance.

Since your chimney will be clogged up over time with all sorts of soot and often cleaned from the top of the roof, cleaning of a chimney comes with a huge amount of risk. As a result, you run the risk of falling off if you decide to clean one by yourself. And even if you’re the type that’s comfortable being on high level places, you should know cleaning a chimney is not the most pleasant of jobs. It can be quite messy as accumulated creosote and soot can drop into your home causing a cloud which covers both the floor, furniture and any other thing you have in the room. Furthermore, chimney cleaning requires specialized skills and knowledge which professionals have acquired after several practices. For instance, missing out on a spot can result in an unchecked chimney fire or a masonry crack.

The simple answer to this question is, therefore, a big NO - you should leave the cleaning to the professionals.  Professionals are not just limited to chimney cleaning; they’re trained to identify any structural issues while also being able to carry out a close analysis of the chimney. They’ll fix minor issues on site and give you a peace mind for any future wood burning activities.

How to repair a hole in a flat roof depends on what material your flat roof is made from. If you have an asphalt, felt or EDPM rubber roof, the repairs are quite simple, whereas it’s a bit more tricky if you have a fibreglass flat roof. How to repair a hole in an asphalt flat roof If you’ve got a small hole in your asphalt flat roof, you might get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin. It’s best to use this as a temporary measure to tide you over until you can get in touch with a professional. If the hole is on the flashing, you can add heat-applied flashing tape to it, or use a patch of torched-on roofing felt. There are liquid systems you can use, but usually they’re only available to the trade. Repairing a hole in a felt flat roof It's a similar process to asphalt roofing if you want to repair a hole in a felt flat roof. Use a paint-on fix for a temporary solution, but the best way to repair a hole is to use a torched-on piece of roofing felt to cover the hole and make it watertight again. How to fix a hole in an EDPM rubber flat roof If the hole in a rubber flat roof is small, you may be able to get away with applying some lap sealant to the hole. Only use a small amount, as if you go for a more permanent repair later down the line all of this will need to be scraped off. You can also use a malleable piece of self-adhesive flashing – clean the area, add EDPM primer and stick the patch on from the centre outwards. Add sealant to the edges if you want to give it more water protection. How to fix pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof If you find pin holes in your fibreglass roof, it usually means there wasn’t enough resin used at installation. To repair the holes, you’ll need to sand down the entire roof back to the clear resin. Then clean the area with acetone and apply GRP roofing resin – the acetone ensures that the resin sticks. You might need two coats of resin to get rid of all the holes.

As long as you can access them safely, it’s fairly easy to clean soffits and fascias. Using a sponge and warm water to scrub them is a good way to get off most types of dirt. You might want to add detergent or bleach to the water to make it more effective.

Once you’ve scrubbed your soffits and fascias, rinse them with clean water to make sure you’ve got all of the dirt and detergent off.

In general, no – you don’t need planning permission for a Velux window. The Planning Portal says that you don’t need to apply for planning permission to install a roof window if the following conditions are met:

• A roof window must not protrude more than 150 millimetres above the existing roof plane
No roof window or any other alteration can be higher than the highest part of the roof or stand out above the roof ridge
• Side-facing windows must have obscure glazing to protect privacy of neighbours and, if they open, they must be 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which they are installed

You don’t need to apply for planning permission for a roof window because they are covered under permitted development rights. However, if you’re a leaseholder or you live in a building where your local authority has made an Article 4 Direction, you will have to apply. Usually, an Article 4 Direction is made when you live in a conservation area where any external home improvements could affect the character and look of the area. Luckily, there are special Velux windows that are designed to be more likely to be accepted by your local planning authority. They’re called conservation windows and, although there’s still no guarantee that they will be accepted, they are designed to look more traditional. Even if you don’t need planning permission for your roof window, you still need to follow any relevant building regulations for your local authority. The most important parts for Velux windows are section J and section L of building regulations, which refer to energy efficiency, thermal insulation and fire protection.

How To Replace Flat Roof Felt

Also referred to as tar paper, roofing felt is installed underneath the roof’s shingles to help deny water access to your home. Installing the roofing felt in overlapping layers builds a water barrier in situations whereby the weather damages or blows away the shingles. Although the application of a roofing felt on a flat roof is relatively easier and safer than working on a peaked roof, it’s advisable to take enough care and precautions. If you lack proper training and experience for this task, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save you from further headaches especially in cases whereby unfortunate errors are made. This step by step guide will give you a good insight into the flat roof felt replacement process.

• Take a measurement of the width and length of the roof.

• Calculate the square footage by multiplying the numbers.

• Multiply the square footage gotten by three (it’s advisable to install three layers of roofing felt to create a really strong weather barrier).

• Use a claw hammer to remove the existing roofing felt.

• Use utility knife to cut the new felt to fit the length of the roof.

• Place the first piece along the roof’s edge and use a hammer tacker to tack the felt in place with staples or galvanized nails and hammer.

• Put the staples or nails at every 6 inches along the side touching the roof’s edge as well as down the short sides.

• Repeat the same process for the second piece, laying it out beside the first row of felt.

• Cut a piece of felt to the appropriate length using a utility knife to begin the second layer of roofing felt, and cutting it in half, lengthwise.

• Apply construction adhesive along the first row using a trowel.

• Press the first piece for the second layer onto the adhesive. Repeat this process until the roof is covered with a second layer

• Apply construction adhesive over the second layer to install the third layer. Begin with a full piece of felt without cutting it in half.

• Overlap each piece by 2 inches until you’ve completely installed the third layer.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.