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Do You Need Felt Under Roof Tiles?

Before now, roofing felt were mainly incorporated to serve as a temporary waterproof roof on a building which would later on be changed for the permanent solid tiles or slate roof. This is due to the fact that rebuilding a roof can be time consuming taking a few number of days, the roofing felt would be used to protect the structure as well as the property it contains by acting as a barrier between the house and the harsh elements such as rain, wind, snow, sleet and more, while also providing minimal insulation until the structure is complete.

However those are in the olden days, in recent times, roofing felt ( also referred to as breathable roofing membrane or breathable felt) is now being used to create a safe and waterproof roof which is long lasting and will protect your house, properties as well as other outbuildings for a long period of time while also complying with the Building Regulations. So to answer the question - yes, you’re going to need felt under roof tiles as it has been made mandatory by building regulations.

Now let’s take a look at the different functions served by felt.

✓ You’ll need felt under roof tiles to prevent the roof space from being exposed.

✓ Roofing felt protects homes where a roof has not yet been installed to serve as a temporary protective layer against the elements.

✓ Roofing felt is particularly crucial for modern homes which are constructed to be more energy efficient and work to hold warm air from escaping the house. This is great to reduce your heating bills while also keeping both you and your loved ones cosy all throughout the year.

✓ Overall, building regulations imply that an underlay underneath the slate or tiles is now a compulsory requirement.

How To Replace A Broken Roof Tile?

If you have a broken roof tile on your property, the next logical step to take is having it replaced as soon as you can. However, this is not the simplest of tasks so you might need some guidance if you wish to do it yourself. If you lack the confidence needed to pull this off as it involves working at height, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable roofing contractor or company who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through the processes involved in the replacement of broken tiles. Let’s have a look!

✓ Match your roof tiles perfectly. The most frequently used roof tiles are concrete and terracotta. They may look all similar but they can actually vary in shapes, length as well as thickness. To replace a broken tile, you must first make sure that it’s the same type of tile so it doesn’t interfere with the flow of your roof which can lead to further damage.

✓ Climb on to the roof. Make use of a strong and stable ladder to do this. If you’re not comfortable with heights, simply call in a professional. Falling of the roof would be more expensive.

✓ Remove the broken tile. Lift up the overlapping tile next to the broken tile in such a way to enable an easy removal of the broken one. If you’re not able to life them, then they probably have nails securing them in place. Remove these nails to proceed.

✓ Replace the broken tile with the new one. To do this, simply lift up the bottom tiles from the above row and then slide the new tile back in place. If the tiles have been nailed, make sure you also drive a nail through the hole in the new tile into the timber roof batten.

Most Sun Tunnel Kits are available in sizes from 250mm Diameter to 550mm Diameter. This gives you a good range to choose from depending on the size of the room you are trying to brighten.

• 250mm Sun Tube – Perfect for room sizes up to 10m2. (Hallways, Small Bathrooms)
• 350 – 450mm Sun Tubes – Perfect for rooms 10 to 15m2. Larger Hallways, Stairwells and Bathrooms.
• 550mm Sun Tube – Ideal for rooms 15 – 22m2. Kitchens, Bedrooms, Living Rooms.

Yes, it’s a dirty job, but every homeowner out there has got to do it! Your gutter needs to be free of dead leaves, birds’ nest and other debris as well as being through clean in order to perform its functions effectively. It’s just a part of the responsibilities that comes with owning a home. Dry leaves, tree branches and other materials build up in your gutters overtime especially during the dry summer and you won’t notice until the point where your gutters start overflowing during the first main rain of the season.

In the event whereby your dirty and clogged gutter is left unattended to, this can lead to several issues like a leaky gutter and mold, leaky roof and basements,cracked foundation, driveway and yard damage and several more which will definitely make you incur more unnecessary expenses. So the question is, how often should the gutters be cleaned? The answer is, it depends. According to several experts, gutters should be cleaned at least twice a year - which is once in the late spring and once in the late summer or early fall. However, there are a couple of factors that may make you have a rethink.

If you happen to have a pine tree growing above your house, it’ll be wise to consider inspecting your gutters every 3 months. This is because pine trees shed needles year-round and they usually have a lot of these needles to shed. In the situation whereby you’re located at a higher elevation, ice is will most likely be your greatest source of concern. Making sure that your gutters remain clean throughout the winter can be quite a headache, but damage to your roof cause by ice can be an even greater pain. Prevention is always better than cure.

Commercial roofing simply refers to any roofing work, including installation and repair, that is done to commercial buildings. This might include office roofs, shop roofs or commercial unit roofs. Every building needs a roof to keep out the rain!

Since looks aren’t usually the first priority with commercial buildings, lots of commercial properties have flat roofs. These are often made from felt, EDPM rubber or fibreglass. Felt is the cheapest commercial roofing material, while fibreglass tends to be the most expensive. In felt roofs, roofers use an adhesive to stick roofing felt onto a frame. EDPM rubber roofs have a rubber membrane that is laid down and glued onto the roof and coated with a contact adhesive, while fibreglass uses a cut glass fibre mat that is pressed on before a resin and topcoat are applied.

Not all roofing companies will offer commercial roofing services, because generally the buildings tend to be bigger. Small companies won’t have enough tradespeople to work on a roof without making it very expensive for you. Commercial buildings also tend to need more scaffolding to make it safe for the professionals to work, so some smaller roofing companies won’t offer commercial services. Make sure you check a company’s website or social media if you’re looking for commercial roofing – on the Quotatis Directory, our roofers will show whether they do commercial roofing to make your search easier.

To keep water away from your house, the importance of gutters cannot be overemphasized. However, in order to enable them do their job the proper way, the clogging dirt and debris must be thoroughly wiped out and fortunately there are a number of ways to get the job done by yourself. However, it must be stated that cleaning of gutters can be a very dangerous task as it deals with working at heights. As a result, if you are not confident enough to this pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the job effectively and also in a safe manner. In this guide, we’re going to look at some of the ways in which you get rid of dirt and debris on your gutter by yourself.

• Clean the gutter with a leaf blower. Several leaf blowers feature a nozzle attachment which is made to release a narrow stream of air which is suitable for cleaning of gutters. All you have to do is simply to position your ladder to enable you work slowly towards the downspout and getting rid of all dirt and obstructions on the gutter as you go. The final step would be to remove any lingering leaves or twigs using a hose. If don’t want to stand on a ladder to do all these, a specialized attachment is available to add to the blower’s reach.
• Clean the gutter with a wet or dry vacuum. For heavier debris, you can try out a wet or dry vacuum. To reach the obstructed gutters while standing on the ground, simply get curved attachments and hoses at a local home improvement store. You may, however, need to moisten some stubborn dirt before it can be properly vacuumed or removed.after completing the vacuuming process, simply flush the gutters with garden hose waters.

In the UK, fireplaces are a very common addition to homes and property and reasonably so. Not only do they represent a great source of heat, but they’re also quite timeless in their beauty, thereby adding more value to your property. Now every fireplace possesses some sort of chimney, asides from the ones that are ventless. And while you might not be aware, every chimney poses a number of dangers which includes being a fire hazard and can also lead to carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of improper or lack maintenance.

Since your chimney will be clogged up over time with all sorts of soot and often cleaned from the top of the roof, cleaning of a chimney comes with a huge amount of risk. As a result, you run the risk of falling off if you decide to clean one by yourself. And even if you’re the type that’s comfortable being on high level places, you should know cleaning a chimney is not the most pleasant of jobs. It can be quite messy as accumulated creosote and soot can drop into your home causing a cloud which covers both the floor, furniture and any other thing you have in the room. Furthermore, chimney cleaning requires specialized skills and knowledge which professionals have acquired after several practices. For instance, missing out on a spot can result in an unchecked chimney fire or a masonry crack.

The simple answer to this question is, therefore, a big NO - you should leave the cleaning to the professionals.  Professionals are not just limited to chimney cleaning; they’re trained to identify any structural issues while also being able to carry out a close analysis of the chimney. They’ll fix minor issues on site and give you a peace mind for any future wood burning activities.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.