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The quick and simple answer to this question is yes, stairlifts can be fitted to almost any staircases, however there are some instances where this won’t be very easy. There are a number of factors that determines whether a stairlift will perfectly fit your home. In this post, we aim to provide you with a good insight on these factors. Let’s take a look!

• The staircase width. The primary factor that really determines whether or not you can have a stairlift fitted is the width of your staircase. In the event whereby your staircase happens to be too narrow, this can lead to safety issues - users can hit their knee s on the rail or wall or the stairlift could also become a potential trip hazard. Generally, the minimum width a staircase can be to allow for a stairlift to be fitted is about 29 and 32 inches.
• The staircase height. Before going for a stairlift, the height of your staircase also needs to be put into consideration. This is prevent any potential head knocks when the stairlift is in operation. Normally, this shouldn’t be an issue for people considering a stairlift for their home, but the vertical space is one that must be considered if you’re planning to get a perch stairlift. This is due to the fact that when the user stands up, more vertical space will be taken compared to when he’s seated.
• The curved stair case. The challenge here is the fact with a curved staircase, the fittings and fixtures of your new stairlift must be tailored to the area in which it’ll operate.

A front porch is a glorious addition that would be a blessing to have in any home. It gives you a good floor space to enjoy your neighbourhood as well as your surroundings in the cool atmosphere of the outside living space. The question however is, how do you build a porch? Constructing the structure can be a very challenging task but with proper guidance and lots of practice, you can also be a skilled porch builder. To protect your investment, it’s advisable to hire the services of a professional for help with your porch especially if you lack proper training and experience. This way, you’ll get to save time and money. This guide is prepared to give you some insight into the porch building process.

lAssess Your Location

• Consider the location before proceeding with the project. It’s essential to select a location that’ll reduce the sunlight coming in.

lPlan The Materials Required For Your Porch

• You’ll have to decide the type of porch you’ll be going for. For example, your porch can be built out of wood, composite decking or if it’s going to utilize some stone flooring, brick or even tile.

lBuild Your Porch Foundation

• Dig the foundations deep to ensure stability while also putting in mind any pipework or cabling

• Fit a damp proof course

• Add the subfloor - this can be concrete or timber

lStart To Lay The Brick And Floor

• Lay the bricks evenly up to the DPC level

• Lay the floor

• Add the flooring protection

• Once done, you can lay the bricks to the window level

• You can fit in a window sill if required before proceeding the brick and block work until it reaches the roof timber’s height

• Fit the linter when you get to the top of where the window will reach.

lConstruct The Roof

• Build a timber framework

• Fit a breathable roof membrane

• Install the roof battens and lay the roof tiles.

• Add gutters

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

In the UK, fireplaces are a very common addition to homes and property and reasonably so. Not only do they represent a great source of heat, but they’re also quite timeless in their beauty, thereby adding more value to your property. Now every fireplace possesses some sort of chimney, asides from the ones that are ventless. And while you might not be aware, every chimney poses a number of dangers which includes being a fire hazard and can also lead to carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of improper or lack maintenance.

Since your chimney will be clogged up over time with all sorts of soot and often cleaned from the top of the roof, cleaning of a chimney comes with a huge amount of risk. As a result, you run the risk of falling off if you decide to clean one by yourself. And even if you’re the type that’s comfortable being on high level places, you should know cleaning a chimney is not the most pleasant of jobs. It can be quite messy as accumulated creosote and soot can drop into your home causing a cloud which covers both the floor, furniture and any other thing you have in the room. Furthermore, chimney cleaning requires specialized skills and knowledge which professionals have acquired after several practices. For instance, missing out on a spot can result in an unchecked chimney fire or a masonry crack.

The simple answer to this question is, therefore, a big NO - you should leave the cleaning to the professionals.  Professionals are not just limited to chimney cleaning; they’re trained to identify any structural issues while also being able to carry out a close analysis of the chimney. They’ll fix minor issues on site and give you a peace mind for any future wood burning activities.

How To Tile A Floor

Are you interested in having a tiled floor in your residential or commercial space? There are so many benefits that comes with installing tiles and that’s why so many home or property owners are considering it. Not only do they increase the visual appeal of the property, but they’re also resistant to moisture helping to increase the durability of the house, whether it’s wall or floor tiles. So if you wish to lay tiles for your house, this guide will help put you in the right direction, ensuring you get it right, the first time.

Floor Tiles Installation Procedures

lFloor Preparation

• The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more.

• Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.

• Ensure the floor is dry and clean.

lPattern Layout

• Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.

• To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.

lAdhesive Preparation

• Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent).

• The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.

lTiles Placement

• Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel.

• Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.

• Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.

lTiles Cutting

• Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.

lGrout Application

• Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float.

• After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes.

• Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.

lGrout Sealing

• Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application.

• Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

Floor tiling can be a very tricky activity that can end up being disastrous, especially when done by a novice. Unless you have prior experience or well-trained, it would be advisable to employ the services of a seasoned professional - it’ll save you lots of time, money and guarantee a top quality job is done.

What Is The Best Security Alarm System For Home?

Do you know you do not have to break the bank to secure your home and achieve peace of mind? Conventional home security systems generally require costly pro installation alongside extensive contracts. However with the advent of the smart versions, you can save a lot of money through personal installation and opting out of a monitoring plan if you deem fit.

If you are thinking about installing the best security alarm system in your home, there are a couple of factors you should take into account. These includes the ability to control the system remotely, wired or wireless system, motion detectors and video cameras. Across the series of home security systems we’ve tested and reviewed, SimpliSafe happens to be the most easy-to-use and install, reliable, affordable and well detailed. What’s more? It doesn’t seek to tie you down with a monitoring plan as you can choose to opt in/out at anytime.

Discover The SimpliSafe Difference!

As a user-friendly DIY security alarm system, SimpliSafe is right on top of the lot with several amazing features designed to improve security while also enhancing your comfort. The add-ons include a doorbell camera, smart lock, interior video camera as well as sensors. The system offers a 24/7 live-monitoring fees that are affordable and also highly competitive. However, a con of the system includes the lack of self-monitoring options or outdoor cameras. This implies that if you’re not subscribed to any monitoring plan, the security alarm system will only be able to operate locally. Also, it can be used with August locks, which represents the only non-SimpliSafe device compatible with the system. Overall, SimpliSafe is simply the best option available in the market mainly due to its impressive selection of add-ons, affordability, as well as its simplicity.

How To Replace Roof Tiles

If your roof tiles is cracked, missing or damaged in one form or the other, you may want to read up to see if the replacement is something you can do by yourself. The answer is yes, roof tiles replacement can be done as a DIY project especially if you’re an experienced DIYer or confident enough to tackle the project. However, if you lack the confidence needed to take on this task, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a professional roofer who can guarantee the best results for help. In this article, we’ll show you how you can replace your roof tiles with relative ease. Let’s take a look!

✓ As you would have rightly guessed, the first step to replacing your roof tiles is to remove the existing damaged roof tile to create space for the new tile. In the event whereby the roof tile is nailed to down, you will have to pry the nails off before proceeding with the broken tile removal.

✓ Once the damaged tile has been removed, the next step is to replace the roof tile as there’ll now be a gap in the roofing area. Simply position the new tile rightly into the space that was formerly filled by the old damaged tile.

✓ After successfully placing the new tiles in spot of the removed tile, you’ll now have to replace the overlapping tiles to their correct position to secure them. To this with a hammer to lift the overlapping tiles a little bit, so you can pull them back into the appropriate place.

✓ This final step is not a necessary one. However, if you’d like to secure your roof tiles further, you can simply nail it into place with a hammer.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.