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How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

Asbestos fibres are very small, so they’re not possible to identify with the naked eye. However, they’re common in particular materials of a certain age, so you can work out if there are any parts of a building that are likely to contain asbestos.

Start by checking the date that the material you suspect contains asbestos was installed. If it was in 2000 or after then you don’t need to worry, it definitely doesn’t contain asbestos. However, if it was fitted before 2000 it may contain asbestos, particularly if this was between 1940 and 1980.

Materials that used to commonly contain asbestos include ceiling tiles, guttering, soffits, fascia, external cladding and facades, vinyl flooring, artex, cement roofs and insulation.

With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.

Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.

External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.

Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.

To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.

Moving house doesn’t have to be a strenuous tasks. Follow up the guidelines I have compiled containing the ultimate moving guide featuring 12 tips to successfully move house, the main do's and don'ts to remember, and a room by room packing guide are simply below;

1. Declutter Your Belongings

Tidying is an essential task every now and then while considering moving house. Before even attempting to pack, you should decide what to sell, donate or throw out. By decluttering, you'll also keep your house removal costs down as there’ll be fewer boxes to move.

2. Book a Removal Company

Once you’ve tidy your physical possessions, you should book your removals company. You could attempt DIY if moving fewer belongings or moving within town but it would be a lot of added stress and time.

3. Create an Inventory

Creating an inventory helps to keep an eye on all your belongings to make sure nothing is lost throughout the process of packing.

4. Pack as Early as Possible

Once you compare surveyors, get conveyancing quotes, and set your moving date, then it's time to start packing.

5. Start By Packing Least Used Rooms

A good starting point will be rooms that are least used.The spare bedroom, garage  are usually easy places to start.

6. Arrange Your Utilities Early

It’s important to set up your utilities such as council tax, gas and home insurance early when moving house. Not only will this save you a lot of stress once you’re moved in, but you will have more time to settle in and relax in your new home.

7. Label Properly

You should label on boxes going to a particular room and a brief summary of what’s inside so there’s no confusion when you’re unpacking. If you don’t want to write a short novella on the boxes you can as well use tag to differentiate each boxes and where it belongs to.

8. Pack a Survival Box

Pack the things you need most every day and night in a separate bag and keep this with you at all times. Items such as medicine, face cream, toothbrush, toilet roll, change of clothes, phone chargers etc will all come in handy.

9. Visit Your New Area

You'll know your new home inside and out after you have carefully survey round the new environment, but what about the neighbourhood? Once the removal company is booked and you’ve started packing, go and spend the weekend in your new area, checking out the local pubs and shops.

10. Update Your Address

It’s a good idea to change your address with companies or organisations like the bank, the doctor’s surgery, car insurance company, local authority and post office 2 weeks before you move.

11. Check Council Tax Band

Many people will forget about taking care of their council tax when moving house. If you’re moving to a new area, there will be a need to set up new address. Check with your local authority for more details about your council tax band.

12. Register to Vote

Another important factor when moving house is staying on the electoral register. You will have to update your address and ensure you’re still able to vote. Luckily, it’s a fairly simple process and can be done through the government website.

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.

To ensure that your boiler is safe and operating efficiently, it’s essential to have it serviced on a regular basis.

Generally, a boiler service will deliver a wide array of benefits which includes the opportunity to identify safety issues like a possible leak of carbon monoxide, efficient use of energy and reduction in energy bills, prevention of breakdowns, a valid warranty when the boiler is serviced regularly by a qualified engineer as well as an extended lifespan. So what exactly does a boiler service cover? This guide will give you a good insight as to what happens during that service.

Before we get started, it’s very important to note that the work done is always as good as the engineer you employ. Therefore, it’s advisable to make sure your preferred engineer is qualified before proceeding with the service. Below are some of the basic practices the engineer may perform during their visit.

• Thorough Inspection

During the visit, the engineer will carry out a detailed examination of your boiler to ensure it still meets the current standards while also making sure that there are no leaks or corrosion. What’s more? They’ll also examine the boiler’s flame for any faults.

• Boiler Casing Removal

The boiler casing will be detached to check all components and ensure they’re free from all forms of dirt and see to it that they’re all working just as they should. This will include examination of the heat exchanger, main injector, burner and spark probe.

• Flue Examination

The engineer will inspect the flue terminals to make sure there are no form of obstructions and it’s also safely installed.

• Gas Pressure Examination

This is done to make sure the heating system is operating at the right pressure.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, just like other new extensions, you must have a foundation done for your lean to conservatory. In order to transfer the building’s weight to the floor safely, there’s a need to construct a foundation. Without it, the structural integrity of the extension would be heavily compromised. What’s more? While there’s no minimum depth requirement for a lean to conservatory, there are multiple factors that can affect the depth as well as type of the foundation. Let’s take a look!

• The nearby trees. What trees do is to absorb water from the soil which can affect the foundation significantly. When water is absorbed from the soil, the soil shrinks which affects the foundation’s strength. The size as well as type of the tree will determine the extent of the water absorption from the ground.
• The soil’s suitability. The weight that each soil can withstand varies and even more so, when environmental factors have more effect on certain types of soils than others. For instance, chalk is able to drain water away relatively easily which means that nearby trees will only have a little effect on its quality. Clay, on the other hand, shrinks when drying and also retains a lot of water. This means that nearby trees will have huge impact on clay soil which will compromise the structural integrity of the lean to conservatory. Therefore, since changes to clay mostly occur to about 0.75m depth, foundations on the soil should be constructed deeper to compensate.
• Undisturbed ground. Before the foundations are laid, there’s a need to identify grounds that hasn’t been built on and this usually takes a depth of about 1m (this figure may vary especially in regions where drains have been laid).