Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Moor Row.

Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

Double glazing frames don’t just have to come in uPVC and are available in other materials including aluminium and wood too. Wooden or timber windows are more suited to properties with a traditional look and are often the frame of choice for listed buildings and homes in conservation areas. When properly maintained wooden windows can last well for years but can be up to three times more expensive than uPVC.Aluminium is the strongest and most durable option. As a metal it is highly resistant to the UK’s changing weather conditions and won’t rust, warp, crack or peel. Aluminium offers a modern appeal and is available in a range of colours.

Do Bifold Doors Fold Back Flat?

Bifold doors, also referred to as folding doors, have grown to become a great alternative to the conventional sliding doors. It has become a necessity rather than a luxury for most home and property owners especially in the south east who are in need of more space and a memorable focal point. However, before installing the impressive bifold doors in your home’s doorways, it’s always a wise decision to learn more about bifold doors. In this article, we’ll let you whether or not bifold doors fold back flat.

Generally, bifold doors consists of 3 to 8 door panels, bifold slides and fold back against one another in such a way that they sit flat against one or both walls. However, this depends on how they’re designed, whether they’ve been designed to open either from the side or from the middle. They basically work on what’s popularly referred to as a concertina principle. This style fold principle works in a way that allows the door panels to smoothly fold back flat which totally opens up the room into an open plan masterpiece.

So now that you know that bifold doors fold back flat, you may also be curious to know whether they also open in or out. Depending on your specific requirements, bifold doors can actually open inwards and outwards independently. However, due to the fact that opening bifold doors can take up some essential space, several home and property owners do prefer installing their bifold doors in such a way that allows it to be opened outwards. What’s more? It’s also essential to take into account that opening bifold doors inwards have the potential to drip water onto internal flooring especially for the wet regions.

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

In the UK, gutters are normally made from uPVC. It’s a hardy plastic that won’t rot, warp or tarnish very easily, which is why it’s so popular. It’s the same material that’s used for most homes’ windows these days; they don’t have to be the standard white as they can be made into a range of colours. Expect to pay an average of £500 for the supply and installation of uPVC guttering, and more if you require scaffolding.

Other materials that are popular for gutters include copper, aluminium and cast iron. These are much more expensive – you might be looking at around £1500 or more for the supply and installation – but they give a more polished look and are often used on period properties or those in a conservation area. If you're considering these types of gutters, make sure you get a few quotes from different roofline companies so you can compare the different materials.

In the past, gutters were made from wood, asbestos concrete or stone. They were often lined with lead to stop the water from seeping through. When it was discovered that asbestos was seriously harmful, it of course stopped being used. Wood was prone to rotting, even with lead lining, and stone is heavy and expensive. So when uPVC came along, it became an affordable and easy material to use for gutters so homeowners could be confident that rainwater will be kept away from the foundations of their properties. It’s important to keep gutters clear from leaves and debris, because if they become blocked, they can make water to fall against your property’s walls, causing damp.

If you’re not an expert floor installer who would take wall tile installation as merely being a vertical floor, you are advised to be very cautious when tackling the project. The installation of wall tiles follow some set of rules which you’d better not break if you really wish to protect your investment. And worst of all, a wall tile done wrong is a lifetime penalty of having to look at it. So how can you get it right? Well, probably by reaching out to a wall tile installation professional for a good quality solution that’ll save you time, money and effort. However, we’ve put together this guide to help give you an insight of how it works and also to help you avoid some unnecessary expenses. Let’s have a look!

• Hang a batten board

✓ Start your rows of tiles or bottom-most course with a batten board which works to prevent spillage of tiles.

✓ Position the batten board at 3/4 of the tiles’ height. Ensure not to start at the floor.

• Form A Pyramid Shape With The Tiles

✓ If you’ve reached the bottom row of tile, then arrange the tile in a pyramid shape. To achieve this, you’d have to install the tiles one through four as instructed. Each following row will be draped over the pyramid.

• Examine The Floor For Level & Walls For Plumb

✓ If your floor level or plumb is off by a maximum of a half-inch over the course of 8 feet, add extra baseboards and trim to cover up the problem.

• The Least Size Of Tiles To Be Used Is Half-Wide

✓ Ensure that no “silvers (tiles that are lower than half the width of the tile in question) are incorporated in the project.

Yes. Modern condensing oil boilers are ‘A’ rated and therefore as efficient as comparable gas boilers. They come with the same controls as gas central heating systems, so you can still use a thermostat to control your heating efficiently. Also, oil is more efficient as a fuel source than gas, so you will get more energy per unit of oil. Oil prices can fluctuate, however, so ensure that you find a good supplier.