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How To Paint Exterior Walls

Painting of exterior walls is a value adding task which can be done by any competent DIYer. So if you’re confident enough to pick up a brush and roller, then all you need to do is to follow the instruction in this step by step guide and you’d be glad you did. Painting your exterior walls yourself can save you lots of money that would rather have been spent on hiring the services of a professional painter and decorator. However, if you don’t feel confident enough to pull this off, then it’s advisable to call in a reliable painting specialist who can guarantee the best results for help. Here, we’ll take you through the needed steps to complete the painting of your exterior walls.

✓ Surface Preparation. This involves protecting all fencing and exterior wall component that’s not to be painted with a drop cloth or masking tape. You’ll also need to completely wipe out any dust before you start to paint a plaster surface. If it’s a previously painted wall, you’ll also need degrease it and remove or scrape off any loose areas of the plaster.

✓ Priming. This involves preparing the primer as instructed in the manufacturer’s guide. Then start to prime the surface by using a brush or a small paint roller to prime the corners, little items as well as all surfaces that are difficult to reach. Once done, then you can tackle the larger surfaces using a larger paint roller.

✓ Painting. To start painting your exterior walls, you’d have to prepare the product first by missing it thoroughly as instructed in the manual. Once done, you can repeat the same process as given in the priming stage above using your paint this time. Once done, you can decide to apply a second layer within a minimum of 4 hours after applying the first layer.

Replacement of roof tiles that have fractured, cracked or is missing is vital to avoid roof leaks and ceiling damage once rain and wind appear. Countering the problem swiftly by yourself is probable as long as it's only a few tiles. Charges for tile replacement can be expensive and fluctuate conditional on the company you hire.

The steps to replacing a tile are:

Ensure you have the right replacement tile as there are numerous different roof tiles on the market.

The most common types of roof tiles are concrete and terracotta. You must confirm that the tile is identical to your earlier tile or it may not work and can result in impairment even though you've tried to repair it. If you don't know what the tile is, ask the suggestion of a roofing supplier and they should be able to match it for you.

Get onto the roof.

It is only advisable to do this if the safety is guaranteed, using a steady ladder and maybe even using climbing ropes to protect you in case of a fall. If you don't possess a head for altitudes or you're sceptical about how safe it is for you to get on the roof, call in a professional.

Once you have securely gotten to the cracked tile, you'll want to somewhat lift the tiles that overlay the one to be detached. Do this by means of two pieces of timber to hold them up. Lift the broken tile over the baton with a brick trowel and gently slide it down.

Place your new tile on top of the brick trowel and inverse the steps to remove the tile.

Be certain to place the overlying tiles back into place.

Conduct a fast check across the roof to review any other possible damage. It is always advised to keep update on how the roof is holding out to keep an eye out for other tiles that might need replacing.

Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Our gardens are often our pride and joy, so we want them to look their best. If you notice that your garden is uneven, you’ll probably want to do something about it. But how do you level your garden or lawn? A gardener can help you do this and will get the best finish, but if you want to have a go at doing it yourself there are a few steps you can take. Before you start, make sure you’ve got all the following equipment to hand:

• String line
• 4 rods & string
• Tape measure
• Flat shovel
• Water sprinkler or watering can
• A rake
• Earthmoving and compacting equipment
• Spirit level
• 2 x 4 piece of wood
• Wheelbarrow
• Protective gloves and shoes

Then, you can get ready to level your garden.

1. Mark out the area Push 4 rods into the ground around the area you want to level out in a square or rectangle. Tie your string around the rods to connect them all together, ensuring that the string stays tight. Then use your string line to any of the 4 sides to check that it’s level. You’ll then need to measure the height from the ground to the string on all four sides to check how much you would need to adjust the ground to make it level. Make sure you take note of the high and low spots and measure the difference between these spots.
2. Water the ground to soften it If you want to level your lawn, or the part of your garden that you want to level has grass on it, you’ll need to uproot the ground underneath it. To make it easier to dig and lift out the grass, sprinkle some water over the area before you begin. It’s a good idea to do this over a few days to really soften it – but make sure you don’t do it so much that it becomes too heavy and soggy.
3. Remove the grass Push your flat shovel into the ground, around 3-6cm deep, then slide the shovel horizontally to lift out the soil and the grass on top. As you repeat this process around the entire area, make sure you try to lift out the soil evenly to avoid making your levelling task even harder.
4. Add soil Fill low spots with nutrient-rich soil and spread evenly over the area with a rake. If you’re levelling out a large area of your garden, consider renting earthmoving equipment to make it easier.
5. Flatten the soil Next you’ll want to compact the soil to protect it from erosion. If you’re working on a small garden or area of your garden, simply use your feet – get stomping on that ground! You could also use a rake, but for larger gardens consider hiring a compactor. Then, leave the soil to settle for around 3 weeks before doing anything. If you’re doing this in the summer, you can water it sparingly to keep it from drying out.
6. Adjust until you’re happy It might take you a few adjustments to get the level of your garden or lawn right. Use a spirit level along a long 2 x 4 piece of wood to see whether the ground is even, then adjust by adding a little more soil or removing soil until it’s at the level you want it.

That’s it. A gardener or landscaping company will be able to level your garden or lawn perfectly, so consider getting some quotes from local companies.

• Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
• Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
• Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth

• Step treads (the actual step themselves)
• Step risers
• Coach screws
• Deck screws
• Saw
• Drill

1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

How To Remove Tile From Wall

Have you stumbled on some stylish new tiles you wish to install in your home, be it bathroom, kitchen or living room? Or perhaps you just feel your old tiles have outstayed their welcome and need a to install a more modern and appealing wall tile. The first step before installation of the new tiles will be to remove the old ones which can be done by following these simple steps below:

lSafety

• To remove wall tiles, you’d have to chip them away and that implies shards of porcelain, ceramic or glass flying around. Hence, your safety should be a top priority.

• Use safety goggles and protective gloves to protect both your eyes and hands.

lCover Up

• With several sharp objects flying everywhere, all objects in the room are far from safe.

• Use a cardboard or old sheet to protect the room and valuable objects from damage.

lAssemble The Tools

• For wall tiles removal, you need just two tools - a hammer and a chisel that’s a bit thin.

• In the event whereby a chisel is not available, you can make use of a flat headed and large screwdriver.

lGet To Work

• Feel for a loose tile to start with and if successful, chip it out with a chisel.

• If you can’t find a loose tile, then break one by sticking the centre of a tile with a chisel and hit it hard with a hammer.

lRemove All Tiles

• Once you’ve been able to chip away or break the first tile, you can easily get access to other tiles.

lClean Up

• Try to get as much dried adhesive off the wall as you can by gently tapping it with the chisel and hammer so as not to damage the wall.

• Once done, put away the cardboard and dust sheet which should have collected much debris.

• Use a brush and dust pan to clean out the loose pieces (if any).

Wall tiles removal can be a very dangerous process which should be left to a professional especially if you lack a proper training or experience. This is not only to prevent anybody being hurt, but also to avoid any possible damages to the wall or any valuable object which can result in additional cost on repair or replacement.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Are you interested in installing an air source heat pump in your home or property? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much this is going to cost. Well, so are many other potential investors in the unit and we aim to answer this question once and for all. In this post, you’re going to discover the price range at which your new air source heat pump will fall in.

As simple as it seems, the cost of an air source heat pump can’t be accurate and straightforward as there are a number of factors that greatly influences the price. These influencing factors include the size of the heat pump, the system’s complexity, your personal preference - whether simple or advanced controls, and lots more. However, according to Energy Saving Trust, an air-to-water heat pump should fall within the range of £7000 to about £11000. What’s more? You’ll also need to put into consideration the cost of upgrading your radiators or fitting underfloor heating which can also cost you thousands of pounds.

In general, the main cost of a heat pump is the upfront cost of making a purchase as well as installing it. The heat pump will consume a little amount of electricity and the running costs are also relatively low. The amount your air source heat pump will cost largely depends on your home’s size, the temperature you want your home or property to be as well as how properly insulated your home is.

The period of time it’ll take to recoup your investment in the system in energy savings will also depend on a wide range of factors including the price you pay for electricity, how efficiently the system works, how you use the heat generated and more.