Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Benfleet.

How Much Does It Cost To Have A Loft Boarded?

More often than not, several homeowners fail to realize there’s so much value sitting right under their roof - the loft. When a loft is boarded, there are so many juicy benefits that can be derived. It can be used as a storage room, spare bathroom, home office and several more functions. Therefore, if you really wish to maximize the space under your home’s roof, you’d have to considering boarding it. So how much would it cost to have your loft boarded? Here, you’ll discover the cost of boarding your lofts so you that you can set a budget and start to plan.

The cost of boarding a loft is actually affordable for several individuals, simply because you’re allowed to floor as much or as little as you require. And while you’re up there flooring and fitting the loft boards, you can as well decide to upgrade the insulation of the loft too. This way, you be able to prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the house which helps improve energy efficiency and ultimately, save you some money on heating bills.

If you’d prefer to make it a DIY project, the cost of 18mm chipboard is about £8 to £10 per sheet sized 2400m x 600m. Meanwhile the insulation boards should range between £18 to £22 for a sheet.

For a professional service, you’ll be provided with a quote for both the materials and labour. The amount will be based on the number of boarding required as well as the method selected. For an average storage space needs, flooring size of about 15m2 is suitable. The price for this quantity would be between the range of £50 to £700 for the counter barren method or above £1000 for a more sophisticated method.

Intruder alarm systems work in various ways and all with one goal in mind - ensuring the safety of both the building and valuables. Whether it’s a small or big home or property, there is a wide range of systems that can be installed to guarantee adequate protection from unwanted visitors. They work with various applications and you get to determine the action to be made in the event whereby the protected zone is violated and system triggered.

Intruder Alarm Systems come in three main types which includes:

• The Bells-Only Intruder Alarm System - Whenever there is a violation, the only action would be to trigger the alarm, nothing more.

• The Communicators - These alarm systems are basically speech dialers which automatically sends a message to various selected number whenever there is an intrusion.

• Monitored Systems - Here, the monitoring centre would be alerted once there is a breach in security.

However, irrespective of the type, most intruder alarm systems operate following a similar series of steps.

lSensing of motion. The systems usually feature door and window sensors which detects any contact of the door/window in the frame when shut. There are also the motion sensors which can be strategically stationed across the property to detect any motion and possible breach of security.

lTriggering of the control panel. The system is interconnected, and all components are linked to a control panel where all detectors’ and sensors’ generated informations are relayed. The alarm countdown is activated in the event whereby a contact is made and circuit impacted.

lSounding of the alarm - Once the alarm countdown has been initiated, failure to insert an abort code will ultimately sound the alarm. The external sounder that comes with the system produces a loud sound to notify people about the security breach or intrusion. There is also an interior sounder which works to bring the presence of an intruder to the awareness of the occupants.

lDeactivating the alarm. With the control panel, users can easily activate/deactivate the alarm system via a fob, code or selected smartphone apps. Click on the link to learn more about intruder alarm systems - https://alarm.quotatis.co.uk/3-ways-home-security-systems-keep-safe/

Overseeding your lawn is an essential part of keeping your lawn looking its best. It’s also known as reseeding, and helps to repair damaged areas that might have been caused by a harsh summer or winter. It’s best to overseed your lawn during the spring or autumn, when the temperature is mild but there’s still a fair amount of rainy days to help the grass seed grow. To prepare your lawn for overseeding, you should do the following things around 1-2 weeks beforehand:

• Weed the lawn by hand or using a weedkiller (make sure you leave enough time to do this according to the instructions)
• Remove stones and large twigs
• Scarify your lawn to remove moss and loosen soil
• Fertilise the soil with a quick-release fertiliser

Once you’ve taken these steps, you’re ready to start overseeding your lawn.

1. Mow your lawn to around 25mm in length.
2. Water the soil so it’s moist but not too damp.
3. Sprinkle your new grass seed evenly over the lawn, but apply more in patchy or thin areas. Generally gardeners say to use 35g per square metre, but up to 50g on thin areas.

When you’re finished, give your lawn a final water, and do this every day until the new grass is established – particularly if it’s not rained. Just make sure you don’t overwater it. It’s also a good idea not to walk on your lawn for around 2-3 weeks after you’ve overseeded it.

Some paving projects require you to cut paving slabs to make them fit into a smaller space. To do this, firstly you need to measure the slab and draw a line in pencil or chalk where you want to cut.

There are then several different ways you can cut the slab – you or your professional can choose the one you or they are most happy with. A hammer and chisel can work well, or a handheld saw. You can also use an angle grinder fitted with a stone-cutting disc.

This is a very sensible question to ask especially before making any decision. However, the answer is not always straightforward without conducting a proper survey of the site in question. In a stark contrast to many beliefs, a “standard garage door does not exist. And as a result of the great variety in specifications, there’s usually a need for garage door to be made to order.

Roller garage door are gradually becoming more and more accepted by homeowners across the country and reasonably so. The fact is, they’re the only type of garage door that features an electric motor as a standard rather than an optional extra. Therefore, if you’re considering the installation of a new garage door and wish to know more about the cost of getting a roller garage door, we’ve got you fully covered!

One thing you should take note is that the prices can vary due to garage door manufactures, price increases as well as the size and type of the garage door you want installed. However, here are the mostly likely price ( including both VAT and installation) you’ll pay to get a roller garage door in the UK.

• For an insulated roller garage door with a single garage door size, the price will range between £1099 to £1800.

• For an insulated garage door with a double garage door size, the price will range between £1400 to £3000.

• For an electric and insulated roller shutter garage door with a single garage door size, the price ( without VAT & installation) will range between £250 to £300.

• For an electric and insulated roller shutter garage door with a double garage door size, the price ( without VAT & installation) will range between £350 to £400.

If you’re considering getting an awning for the outside of your home or business, it’s vital to make sure it’s the correct size. This will help you get the right amount of shelter or shade you need, and ensure it looks great.

To get the best results, get your awning from a company who comes out to your property to measure. They’ll be experienced at doing this accurately, and will be able to add clearance distances where required. They might also be able to suggest the best designs to suit your property and needs.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

Soffits and fascias sit along the sides of your property, over the join between your walls and your roof. The fascia attaches to the end of your roof rafters, hiding and protecting them. The soffit fixes on the bottom of the fascia, bridging the gap between your fascia and wall. Your guttering attaches to the fascia, which also joins to the bargeboard on your gable end, if you have one.