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When it comes to the electric vehicles world, one of the most common questions that’s usually asked is - how to charge my electric car? If you’ve carried out some research, you’d would have seen terms like level 1, level 2 or level 3 being thrown around. In this post, we’re going to consider the meaning of an ev fast charger to give you more insight into the electric vehicles world. Let’s take a look!

As the name suggests, fast charger is an electric vehicle charger that’s a lot faster than the average ev charger. These incredibly powerful units can have your vehicle charged to 80 percent within an hour depending on the model and capacity of your car while also being highly convenient for those who are always on the go. So what’s the difference between rapid and fast car chargers?

Generally, fast car chargers are available in two varieties which includes - the 7kW which is the most popular option used in homes, or 22kW which is commonly used in supermarkets as well as shopping centres. While 7kW takes up within 4 - 6 hours to charge an ev battery to 100 percent, 22kW will take about 1 - 2 hours to do the same. Most fast devices will be AC, there are also some DC ones available as well. What’s more? A large majority of fast car chargers are untethered. This implies that the cable isn’t connected to the device allowing you to make use of your own. This can, at times, make it a lot more convenient than rapid chargers which makes use of tethered cables.

Have you being considering the options available to you for removing the conifers around your home? Or perhaps you’re just planning to raise some structures in an area where you have lots of conifer trees. Regardless of your reason for wanting to remove a conifer tree, you’ve come to the right place!

There are multiple options to remove a conifer tree based on the one that best suits your needs. Some individuals are okay with felling the tree and leaving the stumps behind, while others don’t just want both the tree and the stumps so they poison the tree and subject the stumps to a quick rotting process.

lThe Physical Method

This basically involves felling the trees with the help of powerful machines and other tools. Let’s take a look!

• Early preparation. Get your chainsaw ready alongside your pruning tools as well as other equipments that can prove to be useful.

• Determine the direction you want the tree to fall. You must ensure there’s no passerby risk or risk of damage to any property whatsoever.

• Cut down the trunk. Put your chainsaw to use. First cut doen the branches and twigs before felling the tree.

• Choose your cutting technique depending on the tree’s size, slope and chainsaw available.

• Check for possible infestation before removing the conifer tree.

• Remove the conifer stumps by grinding the stumps out (use a grinder) and setting fire to consume the stumps.

lThe Chemical Method

To carry out this process, you need to first cut down the large tree branches using a chainsaw. Once done, cut off a portion around the circumference of the trunk below the lower branches, close to the root. Leave the bark’s strips connected to the conifer tree to expose the inner tissue.

Mix the chemicals and apply into the conifer tree directly until the whole surface is covered. This will make the conifer tree to die off gradually for a couple of weeks.

How Often Should You Service An Oil Boiler?

If you have an oil boiler, you probably know the importance of having it serviced to ensure its proper functioning, prolong its useful life as well as ensuring the safety of your home. However, the question that most frequently arises is how often would one need to service the prized hating system? If you’re also looking for the answer to this same question, then you’ve come to the right place. To make sure your oil boiler is running smoothly, safely and efficiently, it should be serviced as often as once in a year. You certainly do want to know the numerous disadvantages of failing to service your boiler. Not only will neglecting your oil boiler service result in possible faults as well as higher energy bill caused by its inefficiency, but can also lead to your warranty ending early.

Therefore, you should ensure your oil boiler is serviced by a qualified heating engineer on an annual basis to make sure it’s running just as it should. This will give you peace of mind knowing you wouldn’t be spending huge bucks on possible repairs and in some cases, replacements.

As a landlord in the UK, it’s a legal requirement to make sure that your oil boiler and flue system is services on a yearly basis in your rental property.

Unlike a gas and oil boiler, an electric boiler do not require the same level of maintenance or servicing. However, it’ll be a nice move to ensure that it’s also checked once in a while.

Overall, it’s important to note that failure to service your oil boiler on a yearly basis can give rise to multiple risks. These includes a rise in energy bills, carbon monoxide leak, fault that can cause boiler breakdown as well as an expensive repair or replacement bill.

Does your old TV aerial cable have a cut or tear in line? Well, good news is, you don’t have to discard it. When such problems occur, they can lead to loss of conductivity or interference which results in weak or poor reception or even none at all. With a few easily accessible coaxial repair tools which can be obtained from local stores, repairing your aerial cable can require a much less effort than you think. In this post, we’re going to take you through the TV aerial cable repairing process. Let’s take a look!

• Identify the part of your coaxial cable that needs to be repaired. Incorporate wire cutters to make a clean cut across the damaged cable portion.
• Close the RG-6 labeled groove of the crimping tool an inch down the cable and make a complete cut around the exterior part of the cable.
• Cut the exposed aluminum braiding around the insulation to leave the copper filament above the cut portion which is usually surrounded by a white PVC insulation.
• Using the part of the stripping tool labeled “inner, cut between the insulation down to around 1/3 inch. Once done, twist the stripper around the section to get a clean cut and take off the portion that is cut.
• Identify the copper filament positioned at the middle of the cable and surrounded by insulation and thread it through the twist-on connector’s base.
• Strip the damaged coax cable’s other end and add a twist-on connector to it.
• Use a coupler to connect the two repaired cables. To do this, simply screw one end of the first cable to one side of the cable coupler and do the same to the second cable to the other side of the coupler

How Much Is A Septic Tank?

If you’re living in the rural area, then you’d have a better idea of the septic tank concept and know that it’s installation is a very common job due to difficulty in accessing the mains sewage system. The system takes care of all the scum, sludge and waste water coming from the pipes all around the house in rooms like showers, sinks, toilets, laundry room and more. There are a lot of factors that you’ll have to consider as they all affect the price of replacing or installing a septic tank system. These influencing factors include the drainage systems, the underground or overground location, material, your location as well as labour.

However, generally, the average cost of material for a medium sized septic tank would typically cost within the range of £600 to about £800, while a large septic tank would be around £1000 to about £1,200. What’s more? The average cost to install a septic tank system with the material cost,labour cost and waste removal cost at heart normally ranges between £1,500 to about £2,000.

The material used is also a very common price determinant. Concrete happens to be the most common choice for many homeowners due to the fact that it’s very affordable and also durable ( can last u to 30 years). Generally, the cost for concrete septic tanks should range between £600 to £1,200.

Another pocket friendly option is plastic septic tanks because of its light material. Although, it’s made of plastic but they’re not vulnerable to cracks. They may, however, be affected by soil pressure in harsh conditions. They price usually ranges between £700 to £1,500.

Finally, the more expensive option which is the fibreglass which comes with a number of benefits. They won’t deteriorate or crack underground and can last up to 50 years. This type normally cost within the range of £1,000 to £2,000.

• Tongue and groove timber boards
• Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
• Nails
• Hammer
• Saws, including a circular saw
• Chisel
• Mallet

1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.

Most material warranties come from the waterproofing layer manufacturers, and can last between 5 and 20 years. If your roofing contractor is on the manufacturer’s installer list, it might cover their work. It’s important that you always read through all the information given to you about your warranty so you know exactly what is included.

There are several benefits that can be derived from insulating your garage door. Not only can it reduce your energy bills and protect your garage’s content from elements, but can also go a long way to increase the return on your property’s value, reduce noise, increase the garage door’s strength and deliver a more convenient garage and home. Insulating your garage is a task you can actually take on by yourself. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you leave it for a reliable professional who can ensure the project is done right, the first time - saving you both time and money. This guide will give you a good insight on how you can go about the project.

To insulate your garage, you’ll need a fibreglass insulation, garage door insulation, expanding foam, drywall, gloves and long sleeves, wood, sharp utility knife as well as a staple gun and staples. Now let’s take a look at the garage door insulation process!

lClear The Walls

• Remove the drywall (if present)

• Clean out the dirt and stud cavities.

• Wipe out any chemicals in the garage like gasoline.

lIdentify Gaps & Cracks In The Wall

• Shake your expanding foam vigorously for about a minute.

• Attach the straw to the can and use it to spray the wall openings.

• Fill the gaps until its 50% full

• Leave the foam to fill the openings completely in about 5 to 15 minutes. It should be hardened or completely cured within 6 to 8 hours.

lInstall Fibreglass Insulation

• Staple the insulation’s paper face to the side of the stud and not the face.

• Place a piece of wwod on the insulation’s top to act as a guide to properly cut the insulation to size.

• Cut the excess insulation with a utility knife.

• Tuck in the insulation to make for easier stapling.

• Staple the insulation down to the stud’s side.

lUse Drywall To Cover The Insulation

• Screw and glue the drywall to the stud.

• Do not leave the insulation’s paper exposed.