Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Burnham-on-crouch.

If you’re going through new constructions or renovations and looking to change your old front door and install a brand new composite door, then you’re at the right place. Composite door fitting can be a DIY project but it’s essential to have the necessary training and experience before commencement. If not, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save yourself some time and money.Here, we’ll give a good insight into the composite door fitting process.

To get started, here are some of the tools that may be required - tape measure, hammer, stanley knife, crowbar, chisel, saw. Silicone sealant gun, spirit levels, electric drill ( including the hammer section), rubber mallet and 6mm socket spanner.

lPreparation

• Remove the existing door by rounding up the door frame firstly with a knife to reduce the possible damage to the wall.

• Cut through the door jambs.

• Remove each in two separate sections.

• Ensure the opening is level without any screws, mastic and filler.

lAlign Your Composite Door

• Ensure the sill of the door is level and flat.

• Make sure the frame is square and plumb in both planes.

• Bridge the cavity of the wall and cover the DPC

• Ensure that the frame is square. If not, your composite door won’t function as it should.

lInstall Your Composite Door

• Place the door in the frame.

• Hold the frame firmly in position with wedge packers

• Make sure the packers are positioned close to where the fixing will be placed.

• Make sure the jams are square and plumb in all planes by using a long spirit level.

• Secure the frame to the brickwork with the use of a drill.

• Place the fixings at the top and bottom of each hinge as well as each of the lock keep.

• Top fixings should be fitted 150mm and 250mm from each corner.

How To Install Bifold Doors

If you’re looking to install a bifold door in your home or property, then you’re at the right place! In reality some jobs are better left to the professionals and one of such jobs is bifold door installation especially if you lack proper training and experience that’ll guarantee the best result the first time. If otherwise, hiring a professional installer will do you lots of good like saving you time and extra money that could result from costly errors. In this step by step guide, we’ll take you through the bifold doors installation process.

The first step to take when it comes to bifold door installation is to take the measurement of the door opening and get a kit in the appropriate size. For a better accuracy, do note that the combined measurement of both doors should be about an inch less than the opening’s total width while also being two inches less than the door frame’s height.

• Install the top rails in such a way that the rail’s end makes contact with the door frame’s side using the screws.

• Fit the bottom rail in the same fashion as the top ensuring the rail’s end makes contact with the same side of the door frame.

• Insert dowels into the predrilled holes in the door panels’ top.

• Place the dowel with the adjustment screw near the bottom’s side wall. While placing the fixed dowels in the door panel’s top and bottom on the side farthest away from the hinge. Once done, put the dowel and spring assembly into the door panel’s top, closest to the side wall.

• Fit the door panels into rail’s top and bottom while also adjusting the screws to centre the doors.

• Ensure the doors open and close like they should. If positive, tighten all hardware and fit the pulls or knobs of the door.

What Is Better, Steel Or Aluminium For A Front Door?

If you’re extending or refurbishing your home or property or constructing a new one, you’ll, sooner or later, get to the point when you’d have to determine the type of door material you want to use. The most common choices include steel, aluminium, wood and PVC. However, in this article we’ll only be looking at steel and aluminium to discuss which is better for a front door. Let’s take a look!

✓ Home security. Intruders and unwanted visitors are always a concern regardless of where you live. If this is your biggest concern when going for a front door then steel doors are your best bet as they happen to be one of the sturdiest and strongest materials that can be used to manufacture a door. Not only do they not crack or warp, but they also offer some high security models that features a large number of locks as well as hinges with various style designs. However, this does not mean aluminium are left behind on this subject either as there are also some high security doors that uses aluminium as the primary metal component.

✓ Thermal insulations. Both door presentations are not completely made of steel or aluminium. For a better insulation, they’ll feature other materials such as foam,wood, polystryene foam, or fibreglass core to prevent the escape of heat. As a result, both doors can do a great job when it comes to thermal insulation like keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter for a better energy efficiency.

✓ Aesthetics. If this is your primary criteria for a front door, then aluminium has a wide range of colours and styles to match the style of your home.

Also commonly referred to as brown rot, dry rot simply means a decay of the root as a result of fungi which may negatively impact the wooden structures in the interior or exterior of your home or property. When the dry rot happens, the fungi present breaks down the cellulose as well as hemicellulose – the components which are responsible for the strength and resilience of the wood. Consequently, the wood is left weakened and brittle while also appearing a bit blocky. Most often than not, dry rot affects damp timber, primarily with a moisture content that’s more than 20 percent. As a result of this, any dry rot eradication strategy should have the removal of the source of moisture to form the core of its activities. So, how can you identify dry rot? Let’s take a look!

• Examine the wood. At first, the fungus appears a lot similar to cotton wool and may also possess water droplets on its surface if there is a very humid surrounding.
• Look out for shrunken or sunken wood.
• Identify darkening and cracks in the structure of the wood.
• Identify affect wood that features flat skin-like grown that may appear like the exterior of a mushroom with shades of silver and grey. Most times, patterned with patches of light purple or yellow which easily peels.

Dry rot can be treated in a number of ways which includes epoxy treatments, commercial anti-freeze as well as copper compounds. The epoxy treatment simply means the act of filling in channels within the damaged wooden structure with an epoxy treatment to eliminate the rot and strengthen the structure of the wood. The commercial antifreeze is the treatment of the rot with antifreeze to kill the fungus and prevent further growth.

One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.

There are a number of reasons why disputes can arise between neighbours – all of which can be quite frustrating and challenging. In some cases, this can even cause serious friction and lead to an all-out war. When it comes to the topic of fencing, one of the most common questions that arises is whether or not you can attach something to your neighbour’s fence. If you’re having the same concern, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into this to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is no, you can’t attach anything to your neighbour’s fence. If your neighbour owns the fence and you’ve not obtained any permission to do so, then you’re not allowed to attach anything to the fence. Otherwise, you can get into serious trouble with your neighbour as well as the law. If you want to attach something or have the wall on your side painted using another colour, then there’s the need to get a permission from the owner. And while doing so, make sure you’re provided with a written permission so as to avoid problems later in the future.

Another question that mostly arises is what if your neighbour declines your request, is there anything you can do about it? Well, the answer to this is no, there’s nothing you can do about it unless you’re able to convince your neighbour otherwise. And you should know starting a neighbour war or being spiteful can only make matters worse for you.

Artex is a type of interior surface coating, similar to plaster. It’s used to create decorative textured finishes on ceilings and walls, so it takes longer to dry than plaster.

Artex is actually a brand name, but it’s used to refer to similar products made by other manufacturers too. It was particularly popular in the 1970s, but is still used to create attractive wall and ceiling finishes today.

With summer fast approaching, most business owners are getting ready to battle the great heat that often comes with it. One of the most important tasks would be to make sure that the commercial HVAC system is in top condition to run efficiently and smoothly through to help lessen or cancel out the effect of the summer’s heat in the work environment. Air conditioning systems when not properly maintained can take up to 30 percent energy which is capable of sending your utility bills through the roof during the season that calls for a heavy usage. In this post, we’re going to consider some top tips you can implement to prepare your commercial unit for summer air conditioning. Let’s take a look!

• Filter cleaning and maintenance. When the filter is clogged the cooling is decrease and more energy is consumed (implying higher electricity bills) as the unit works harder to have your work environment cooled. The filter accumulate dust, dirt and other particles pretty easily which also affects the indoor air quality since they’ll get pushed out with the cool air distributed. Therefore, there’s a need to ensure that the filters are washed regularly and also changed (at least once a month during summer).
• Air flow leaks and obstructions. If the blower components aren’t properly adjusted, this can lead to a 15 percent drop in the system’s efficiency. Also, gaps and obstructions in duct work can lower air flow in the HVAC unit. Therefore, you’ll need to check the ducts and connectors for loose spots or damages, also check walls, doors and windows for cracks and leaks which can allow the outside warmth to draft in and the cool air to flow out.