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Whether you need toughened glass in your windows depends on where the windows are in your home or business. Toughened glass is sometimes referred to as tempered or safety glass, and it just means it’s stronger than the standard glass that’s usually offered with double glazed windows. So how do you know if you need it?

Toughened glass is useful in areas of your home where you might come into contact with the windows if you were to trip and fall. If you put your hands out to steady yourself on standard glass the chances are it would break into large sharp pieces with jagged edges. Of course, this means that you could seriously cut yourself if this were to happen. With toughened glass, the structure of the glass is changed so that if it breaks it shatters into lots of tiny pieces, minimising the risk to you if you were to fall on it.

You might want to use toughened glass in patio doors, low windows or frames next to doors. It just means that you will be safer if the unlikely happens and you or a family member falls through the glass. There are certain requirements through Building Regulations with windows at a certain level, but any reputable window installer should be able to go through these with you if you need to replace your windows with toughened glass. The regulations will only apply to new windows – there's no need to switch your windows to toughened glass early, but when you do come to replace them you’ll need to make sure they meet the standard.

Well, just like many other team work, a bricklayer is only as good as his supporting cast. And a hard-working labourer should be able to keep three bricklayer gangs happy. But even when he gets to serve just one bricklayer, the site conditions and nature of the wall can also play a huge role in determining the number of bricks that can be laid within 24 hours.

With the best possible site condition, hard-working labourer and best scenario with no pillars, no face brick, long straight wall and no wall ties, a well trained bricklayer should be able to lay within a range of 800 to 1100 bricks all day long. However, you rarely get walls like this as there is always going to be some corner or curve somewhere which usually takes some time to get right. Furthermore, once the bricklayer has laid up to 5 feet, there’ll be a need to get some lift. From that point onwards, the job understandably gets slower and tougher - meaning there’ll most definitely be a face brick.

In addition, there are multiple other factors that can affect the number of bricks that can be laid in a day. Sometimes its the complex designs or weather that’ll determine the daily rate.

With the aforementioned factors and more realistically, on a good day and great site, an expert bricklayer should be able to lay about 500 to 800 bricks in a day. This is generally a very good target, but of course you never can tell with the reasons above and other factors that are simply beyond the control of the bricklayer. If you have a project and want it completed as soon as possible, you can pay the bricklayers based on the number of bricks laid to increase their efficiency.

Are you worried about blocked drains? Yes, you probably should! As a homeowner ( with a detached, semi detached or terraced house), all plumbing and drainage issues within your home or even within your property boundary is your responsibility. Hence, you’d might want to consider getting a Homeserve plumbing and drainage cover to help keep your home running smoothly and putting your mind at ease. The only exception here is if the drain in question is a lateral drain which is a common feature in flats. In this situation, it’s only the building managers that would be responsible for the maintenance of the drainage as it’s shared between several homes. Before 2011, the various flats or houses that shares the lateral drain are responsible for its maintenance.

Working with top utility companies for over 2 decades, Homeserve has positioned itself as one of the leading home assistance providers in the United Kingdom. With their top notch services, they’ve been able to make their client’s lives a lot easier and stress free through the provision of a wide array of repair solutions such as drainage, plumbing, heating, electrics and a lot more.

As a homeowner with the responsibility of maintaining the drains and ensuring there’s no block or damage, it’s simply a no brainer to go for a plumbing and drainage cover and more importantly, get good cover. Homeserve are one of the providers but there are a number of others which offer great service at competitive prices. Without an insurance in place, you may just have to break the bank just to have an engineer or plumber to fix any plumbing or drainage issue you might have. So why not give yourself a peace of mind and get a cover today?

One of one of the most unfortunate parts of a woodworm invasion is that the signs of the issue are just visible at the end of the woodworm's lifecycle. This is when the woodworm beetle breaks free from within the wood to proceed its breeding.

Sign 1: Departure Holes in Wood

The signs to watch out for are what we call exit holes. When determining if you have energetic woodworm in your residential or commercial property one extremely aesthetic sign is the holes produced by the woodworm as they leave the wood. The dimension of the holes varies relying on the types of woodworm but generally they are between 2mm and also 5mm. If the woodworm trouble is energetic the holes will have a 'clean' or 'fresh' appearance. They can often just be identified up close, unless there is a huge problem as well as many departure holes with each other. Take a look at our examples below of different kinds of exit holes:

Sign 2: Presence of Bore dust

Another sign that you have an online woodworm invasion in your property is the presence of frass being left by the beetle when it chews its means with the timber. Frass is a dirt developed by woodworm. The frass or woodworm dirt is light in colour and looks virtually like very fine wood shavings. This frass is essentially woodworm waste and also it can be this waste that can aid us identify what kind of woodworm beetle is present. As an example ... the frass created by the wood-boring weevil is 'sticky' to the touch as a result of there being moisture present. The pictures below offer an indicator of what to watch out for:.

Sign 3: Tunnels within the timber brought on by woodworm.

Although this is an apparent sign that you have a woodworm issue it is additionally one of the least noticeable. The tunnels are developed by the woodworm as it makes it method via the wood.

Sign 4: Harmed wood

Damage timber is a clear sign that woodworm are causing damage to your residential or commercial property. Damage can range from weakened floorboards through to crumbling skirting boards. It is very important not to puzzle woodworm damage with the damages triggered by completely dry rot or damp rot. If you are unclear which of these home care problems are creating the damage then it is essential to speak to a hardwood expert to evaluate the lumber to prevent unnecessary treatments that might not be appropriate.

Sign 5: Actual beetles

Dead woodworm beetles might be seen near lumbers that are contaminated. Similarly, throughout the beetle 'flight period' between May and October, you could see real-time beetles as they arise from the woods. Learn more concerning the woodworm lifecycle right here.

Doors can be bought in a range of materials, such as wood, aluminium or uPVC. There are also more modern composite doors which use a variety of different materials for toughness and durability. Doors are also available in glass reinforced plastic (GRP), and engineered timber.

A roof is one of the most significant portions of any property and they’re also the single part of a structure most vulnerable to impairment from the elements. If your roof suffers substantial damage over time, maintenances and re-roofing charges can be expensive, time-consuming, and stressful which is why it is imperative to keep your roof in sound structural and aesthetic order.

If a tile has fallen off from the top of your roof – you can expect to pay around £70-£100 to replace it including a different tile fitted in its place. Replacing a hip roof will cost between £4,250 and £7,250, the cost varies if you have a single valley or a double valley on your roof. For a new gable roof, you should expect to pay around £3,250 to £5,250.

What does it cost to replace my roof?

The charge of substituting your roof for a new one will be subject to the age and condition that it’s in, but usually, the cost of a new roof on an average property is around £5,500.

Some of the key factors to keep in mind when calculating the cost of re-roofing your house include:

• size of your roof

• type and size of the materials used

• shape and style of the roof

• If structural changes are required or not

• the roofing company hired

Tiled roof repair costs

If you are trying to prevent water from leaking inside your house for one or two tiles, then you can expect to pay between £100 to £200 to fix them and seal the leaks.

Flat roof repair costs

Minor jobs such as repairing flat roofs as well as sheds and garages or mending blisters can usually cost around £300.

Roofing job Price range

Replacing six ridge tiles £135-£260

Replacing six broken or missing tiles £55-£105

Cleanout of your gutter £35-£80

Replacing one right tile on rooftop £70-£100

The cost of a full re-roofing job can amount to around £3,250 to £7,250 depending on the size of your property.

Hip roof Cost range Length of time

Semi-detached home £4,250-£4,750 3-4 days

Detached home £5,250-£5,750 4-5 days

2 valleys – semi-detached home £5,750-£6,250 5-6 days

2-valleys detached home £6,750-£7,250 6-7 days

Gable roof Cost range Length of time

Standard £3,250-£3,750 2-3 days

2-valley £4,750-£5,250 4-5 days

One major problem several home and property owners in the UK and across the globe would rather prefer to avoid is blocked sewer pipes or drains. These blockages can spring up when you least expect and if left untreated, can result in water leakages from your sewer pipes which is capable of damaging your home or business facility. In extreme cases with severe blockages, it can lead to burst pipes which will be even more expensive to repair. If you’re looking for safe and effective ways to clear a blocked sewer pipe, here are some of the primary options that are available to you.

• Boiling water. If you want a quick and easy fix of your blocked sewer pipe, then this is for you. Simply pour some quantity of boiling water into the drain. In several cases, this will cause the particles causing the blockage to dissolve or loosen without having to resort to more drastic measures. However, it’s advisable to only use this method on either metal or ceramic pipes. Use hot and not boiling water on PVC pipes to prevent heat from loosing its joints.
• DIY Natural Cleaner. To use this method, simple create a DIY cleaner by incorporating bicarb soda (baking soda) and white vinegar. Pour the baking soda into the sewer pipe and follow it with the vinegar. Once done, cover the sewer pipe to ensure the mixture does not bubble out of the pipe. In some cases, you may need to repeat the process a number of times to make sure that the blockage is properly removed. After completion, simply flush your sewer pipes down with hot water.
• Plunger. This is a very common option that home owners use in clearing their blocked drains. Firstly, cover all overflow spouts before you start to plunge to get a strong seal. The strong up and down pressure produced by the plunger can go a long way to clear any blockages to ensure your pipes flow uninterruptedly again.

Shower screens are available today in various range of shapes and sizes and also hinged and folding designs. They’re primarily designed for use in straights bathrooms as the prevent water from splashing onto the bathroom floor when having a shower. They’re also able to offer a great alternative to shower curtains which can appear dated over time and are also considered not to be as hygienic as shower screens. If you’re looking to have a shower screen installed, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a professional. The latter which is more advisable as professionals are able to guarantee a clean and top-quality job the first time. In this post, we’re going to take you through the shower screen installation process to enable you make a hassle and error free installation. Let’s take a look!

1. Examine the area for pipework. Firstly, you’d have to turn off the water at the mains before starting the task. Determine whether the wall you’ll be fitting to is solid or plasterboard, then use a multi-purpose detector to discover any pipes near to where you’ll be drilling.
2. Place the u-channel. Position the shower screen u-channel against the wall at 40mm depth from the shower’s edge. The u-channel should sit flush with the shower – use a spirit level to ensure that it’s level.
3. Mark the screw holes’ spots once the u-channel is level.
4. Drill the holes into the tiles where the marks have been made then put in the plugs.
5. Secure the u-channel with a sealant along the back of the u-channel.
6. Further secure the u-channel using screws and fixings. Once done, proceed to seal the channel’s bottom to the shower using a sealant.
7. Put the shower screen into the u-channel after placing the rubber seal along the glass screen’s bottom.
8. Secure the shower screen by drilling holes into the frame and using screws with cover caps to finish it off.
9. Seal the outer edges of the shower screen.