Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Ongar.

Is your garage door a bit old and outdated? Are you planning to make some renovations? Or perhaps you just want a newer and more stylish garage door, that’s safer and easier to operate, installed. Fitting a garage door can be a bit tricky but it’s not as difficult as you might think. If you’re without proper training or experience, it’s advisable to get in touch with a reliable professional for help in order to guarantee the best results while also saving you both time and money. This guide offers you step by step instructions to assist you in the installation of a new door on our garage.

To get started, the obvious first step is to remove the old garage door. Carefully go through the manufacturer’s instructions to achieve this. Here, you’d basically have to unlatch the door, take apart the door’s panel and unscrew the tracks.

lMeasure, Fit The Hinges & Handles

• Take a measurement of the area in which the door will be fitted

• From the top of opening to ceiling should include a space of about 10 to 12.

• For the length of the garage, you should have the door’s height with about 18 or more space.

• Once done, attach stops to the sides of the opening

• Lay out the bottom piece of the door and include the weather stripping (if you deem fit) using the sawhorses.

lPut The Bottom Piece In Position

• Fit the bottom piece into door frame using a level

• Hit nails partway into each jamb

• Bend the nails slight to secure their position.

• Assemble the vertical, curved and horizontal pieces of the track using the manufacturer’s instruction

lFit The Remaining Panels

• Put the second panel on the first panel

• Use a hammer to hit nails into it

• Fit the hinges.

• Repeat the process for the number of panels required and achor individual piece into the door jamb.

lInstall Rollers

• Fit the rollers in the section’s supports

• Put the rollers in the assembled track and make sure they’re not pressed to tightly against the track to prevent friction.

lSecure Tracks & Fit The Springs

• Fit the curved and horizontal pieces

• Assemble the springs following the manufacturer’s instructions

• Ensure that the tracks are level and parallel by lifting the door to about half length

• Lift the door to cover the distance left and fit the springs to the pulley system

Many examples of asbestos will not need removing, for example if it is present in artex that is in good condition. However, if you are carrying out building work on or near the asbestos it should be carefully removed before the building work starts to make sure it is not accidentally disturbed.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

Most companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.

A clogged sewer line, when left untreated, can lead to a wide range of serious problems. If the issues arises from a toilet or kitchen sink pipe, then it’s highly likely that it just might be a clogged drain. However, if every flush results in a build up of sewage in your home, then the problem is likely to be in the main sewer line. If you’re looking for ways in which you can unclog your main sewer line without a snake, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to show you just how to go about it. Let’s take a look!

1. Boiling water. If you want a quick and easy fix of your blocked sewer pipe, then this is for you. Simply pour some quantity of boiling water into the drain. In several cases, this will cause the particles causing the blockage to dissolve or loosen without having to resort to more drastic measures. However, it’s advisable to only use this method on either metal or ceramic pipes. Use hot and not boiling water on PVC pipes to prevent heat from loosing its joints.
2. DIY Natural Cleaner. To use this method, simple create a DIY cleaner by incorporating bicarb soda (baking soda) and white vinegar. Pour the baking soda into the sewer pipe and follow it with the vinegar. Once done, cover the sewer pipe to ensure the mixture does not bubble out of the pipe. In some cases, you may need to repeat the process a number of times to make sure that the blockage is properly removed. After completion, simply flush your sewer pipes down with hot water.
3. Plunger. This is a very common option that home owners use in clearing their blocked drains. Firstly, cover all overflow spouts before you start to plunge to get a strong seal. The strong up and down pressure produced by the plunger can go a long way to clear any blockages to ensure your pipes flow uninterruptedly again.

If you are planning to invest in a new satellite dish, then you’d probably want to know the most suitable receiver to incorporate. If you have this same concern, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into the world of satellite dish receivers in order to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, it must be stated that there happens to be a plethora of LNB types, makes and models available in the market today and picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs.

The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

Does House Insurance Cover Locksmith?

If you happen to be accidentally locked out of your home for whatever reason, it may be costly to hire the services of a reliable and professional locksmith for help. To mitigate this risk, is home insurance the answer?

The financial coverage provided when you get locked out of your home to cover the costs associated with hiring the services of a locksmith is called home lockout protection assistance. However, it’s very rare that this type of perk is covered by a homeowner’s insurance policy. In the common cases where it’s not included, you can file a claim for reimbursement of the costs associated with hiring a professional locksmith to re-key your lock or let you into your home. Without raising your hopes, it should however, be stated that using a house’s insurance to provide coverage for lockout will hardly work in your favour.

In order to file a claim under homeowner’s insurance coverage, it’s a must to pay your deductible upfront. This can be very costly depending on a number of factors. And to state the interesting part of it all, the locksmith services in association with being locked out of your home is, at most times, even lesser than the deductible amount you’re expected to pay to file a claim. As a result, it’s simply a no brainer to pay for the home lock out from your pocket than to use the home lockout protection assistance.

There’s however an option of getting a home lock out protection via auto club membership such as AAA. They’re known to re-imburse their premium members with a good amount of money towards the costs associated with a home lockout.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.