Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Rochford.

Moss, mushrooms and weeds are all problems that many homeowners face on their lawns. Luckily, with a bit of maintenance, there are ways you can get rid of these unwanted organisms and prevent them from coming back. Getting rid of moss A simple way to remove moss from your lawn is by scarification. This basically means that you vigorously rake your lawn, but only do this in the autumn when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. However, you can also use specific weedkillers to control moss on your lawn, and most of these should be applied when the moss is actively growing. Apply in fine weather by hand or with a push-along spreader, making sure not to apply too much as you could kill off the grass too. Check the instructions, as some will require watering after 48 hours if it’s not rained. Then, get into a scarification routine to help prevent moss growth. Removing mushrooms from your lawn If you’ve got mushrooms in your lawn, it usually means that your lawn is damp and shaded, so it never dries out, and is organic waste-rich. There could be a drainage problem with your lawn that is encouraging mushroom growth, so it’s important to investigate why the mushrooms are growing to prevent them from returning once you’ve removed them. To get rid of mushrooms in your lawn, make sure you scarify your lawn and get rid of all the moss, thatch and dead grass that comes up. If you leave it, this is heaven for mushrooms to grow in. If your lawn is shaded, try to prune and thin surrounding trees to offer it more light. If you do all of these things, it will prevent mushrooms from growing in the future, and then it might be worth using a fungicide to get rid of the mushrooms that are there. But if you just do this step, it’s likely the mushrooms will just come back. How to get rid of weeds To get rid of weeds from your lawn, you can use selective weedkillers that will just kill the weeds and leave your grass alone. But if you’d rather not use weedkiller, you can get rid of weeds from your lawn manually. For large, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions or plantains, use a trowel to lever them out, ensuring that you get the whole plant including its roots. Then use compost to fill the hole it leaves behind, pushing it deeply into the hole. Sprinkle with fresh grass seed, cover with extra compost and water. Make sure you keep the area damp until the seed has germinated. To prevent moss, mushrooms or weeds from returning, the best things to do are:

• Scarify your lawn in the autumn, and lightly in the spring if necessary
• Seed your lawn in the autumn if you need to
• Try to keep trees trimmed and pruned as much as possible to reduce shade
• Use a pre-emergent weedkiller in the spring to catch them before they grow and handpick any that come through
• Mow your lawn regularly in the spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time, then before winter give it one last mow and a fertilisation treatment

More often than not, when we think about replacing our old or existing door with a new unit, we tend to get a bit creative. We think about the panel to use, but often forget about the door’s frame which is just as important. The frame is way beyond an ordinary trimming that serves as a boundary for the slabs, it also ensures the door opens with ease and also sees that heat are being locked in and security is tight. There are a variety of frame options available when fitting a new door, and putting a composite door in a uPVC frame is one. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of the great effects of composite door and uPVC frame combination and help you make informed decision about the best setup that’ll perfectly satisfy all your doorway needs and budget.

Putting a composite door in a uPVC frame or a uPVC door in a composite frame is without a doubt the most popular door/frame combinations. In fact, you’d be shocked just how well a composite door and uPVC frame complements and supports each other in either alteration. If you’re the type that likes the unmatched levels of insulation, visual appeal as well as security that’s provided by composite doors, fitting this in a UPVC frame is really one that’ll set you apart. This combination is the most loved and for a good reason. You’ll get to open your door with ease while it also remains weathertight, save some money using the usually less costly uPVC frames and ultimately, combine the strengths of both materials incorporated. What’s more? It’s an opportunity for you to make a striking impression on all your visitors.

Generally the process for having plans produced will only take a month or two. Major works or new builds can take upto ten months to produce. This will depend on the requirements of your project and the number of technical drawings you need produced. An architect will always advise you based on the project how long these will realistically take.

This is a very sensible question to ask especially before making any decision. However, the answer is not always straightforward without conducting a proper survey of the site in question. In a stark contrast to many beliefs, a “standard garage door does not exist. And as a result of the great variety in specifications, there’s usually a need for garage door to be made to order.

Roller garage door are gradually becoming more and more accepted by homeowners across the country and reasonably so. The fact is, they’re the only type of garage door that features an electric motor as a standard rather than an optional extra. Therefore, if you’re considering the installation of a new garage door and wish to know more about the cost of getting a roller garage door, we’ve got you fully covered!

One thing you should take note is that the prices can vary due to garage door manufactures, price increases as well as the size and type of the garage door you want installed. However, here are the mostly likely price ( including both VAT and installation) you’ll pay to get a roller garage door in the UK.

• For an insulated roller garage door with a single garage door size, the price will range between £1099 to £1800.

• For an insulated garage door with a double garage door size, the price will range between £1400 to £3000.

• For an electric and insulated roller shutter garage door with a single garage door size, the price ( without VAT & installation) will range between £250 to £300.

• For an electric and insulated roller shutter garage door with a double garage door size, the price ( without VAT & installation) will range between £350 to £400.

If you’re about to fit a new bathroom in your home, then you’d probably be wondering how much would be the labour cost of getting it done. Unfortunately, a single accurate answer can not be provided to this question as there are many influencing factors that can determine the labour cost to fit a new bathroom. In this guide, we’ll give you a good insight on the labour cost of installing a new bathroom.

While you can obtain a good evaluation when planning the work on your bathroom, the final cost can largely vary. For small jobs such as fitting a pedestal basin with taps, professional installers can charge within the range of £170 to £250. Meanwhile, bigger projects such as tiling an entire bathroom can cost an average fee of about £70 to £90 per square metre. Generally, the overall average cost of fitting a new bathroom is about £6,500 in the UK. But in an event whereby you’ll be switching to a bathroom suite that’s exactly like the old one which wouldn’t require extra flooring as well as tiling, there’s a high chance you may be able to complete the project for a significantly lesser price.

The main reason why the labour costs vary is due to the fact that each individual job will have to be priced based on its own particular requirements and circumstances. Other influencing factors that’ll affect how easy a job is to complete, how much material will be incorporated and the duration of the project includes the size of the bathroom in question as well as the shape. However, there can be unforeseen complications like damaged piping which will also raise the price of the project and more.

Fitting a wall hung toilet in your home or property bring about a plethora of benefits. Not only are they a feat of modern washroom design, but they’re also able to offer a wealth of practical benefits. Given the fact that the cistern and pipework are all going to be concealed within a duct system, the areas that’ll be exposed is significantly reduced. This, ultimately, protects them from accidental damage and tampering, and also leaves a flush, easy to clean surface which goes a long way to improve the hygiene in your washroom.

Fitting a wall hung toilet can be a tricky and time consuming task especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, it’s advisable to hire the services of a plumber who can guarantee the best results for help. So how do you fit a wall hung toilet?

• Complete the 1st fix plumbing works. This should be done before the installation of the IPS panels and cubicles.
• Fit the stainless steel frame to the wall. High Pressure Laminate and solid grade Laminate IPS panels usually comes with pre-clipped metal DUCT set framing. Simply unclip the panels and number them on the back. Fix Unistrut to the back wall of where the new IPS DUCT will be positioned. Once done, you can then fit the stainless steel framework and fix the frame with M10 bolts to where it makes contact with the wall and floor.
• Wall hung pan support frame. This involves bolting the frame into the floor and back wall of the newly created void
• Lining up your toilet. Make sure that your toilet pan are marked out even and spaced before hanging it to enable cubicle enclosures that’ll be fitted later on.
• Cisterns, flush kits and cut outs. This invloves cutting out holes on the solid grade laminate IPS panels to allow for you push butoon or sensor flush control, waste outlet, flush cone and fixing rods. Once done, clip back the IPS panels to the stainless steel DUCT set frame.
• Second fixing your wall hung toilet pan and controls.

How To Install A Gas Cooktop In An Island

Are you thinking about installing a gas cooktop in your kitchen island? If yes, then you must know that there are clearance requirements that must be met (before you proceed) between the cut out and the countertop’s edge. Basically, there are incremental requirements for island installation due to the fact that it does not make an assumption that the product is going to be fitted against a rear wall that acts to protect the back of the unit. As a result, while doing an island install we must put the safety of the product into consideration much more that we do a standard install. What’s more? This island clearance requirement develops from a third-party agency and is a standard with all brands. So how do you install a gas cooktop in an island having the aforementioned requirements in mind?

• Use a foil tape to line the inside edges of the cut out. The function of this is to prevent heat damage as well as countertop’s discolouration. Put the cooktop top on a secured surface.

• Identify the pipe coming out of the cooktop’s side or bottom and brush onto the threads of the manifold entrance.

• Pass the pressure regulator onto the entrance of the manifold and make use of a wrench to tighten it.

• Brush the pipe joint compound onto one of the flare union adaptor’s threads and pass it into the regulator’s open end. Make it slightly tight with a full turn of the wrench.

• Connect the flare union adaptor’s open end with the flexible appliance connector hose, upon brushing on pipe joint compound.

• Put foam tape on the cooktop underside’s edges, if your cooktop comes with a glass burner plate.

• Turn the cooktop to set it into the cutout.

• Apply pipe-joint compound onto the flare union adaptor left and secure it firmly into the gas shutout valve.

• Connect the flexible hose connector’s free end with the flare union adaptor.

Speaking to the owners of the neighbouring properties is recommended. If you are still unsure, you may need to check the original deeds to the property. Generally the rule is that you are responsible for the fence at the right hand side of your property.