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If you are planning to invest in a new satellite dish, then you’d probably want to know the most suitable receiver to incorporate. If you have this same concern, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into the world of satellite dish receivers in order to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, it must be stated that there happens to be a plethora of LNB types, makes and models available in the market today and picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs.

The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.

Also commonly referred to as brown rot, dry rot simply means a decay of the root as a result of fungi which may negatively impact the wooden structures in the interior or exterior of your home or property. When the dry rot happens, the fungi present breaks down the cellulose as well as hemicellulose – the components which are responsible for the strength and resilience of the wood. Consequently, the wood is left weakened and brittle while also appearing a bit blocky. Most often than not, dry rot affects damp timber, primarily with a moisture content that’s more than 20 percent. As a result of this, any dry rot eradication strategy should have the removal of the source of moisture to form the core of its activities. So, how can you identify dry rot? Let’s take a look!

• Examine the wood. At first, the fungus appears a lot similar to cotton wool and may also possess water droplets on its surface if there is a very humid surrounding.
• Look out for shrunken or sunken wood.
• Identify darkening and cracks in the structure of the wood.
• Identify affect wood that features flat skin-like grown that may appear like the exterior of a mushroom with shades of silver and grey. Most times, patterned with patches of light purple or yellow which easily peels.

Dry rot can be treated in a number of ways which includes epoxy treatments, commercial anti-freeze as well as copper compounds. The epoxy treatment simply means the act of filling in channels within the damaged wooden structure with an epoxy treatment to eliminate the rot and strengthen the structure of the wood. The commercial antifreeze is the treatment of the rot with antifreeze to kill the fungus and prevent further growth.

In the event whereby you’ve got big refurbishment ideas for your house but a small budget, then you know it’s time to be a bit more creative and apply some cheap and simple tricks. The best possible way to go about this is to invest time in acquiring new skills rather than trying to save up more money to pay a pro to deliver the results you want. After all, the most significant cost when it comes to house refurbishments is usually the labour cost.

The key to making cheap tricks a lot effective in the refurbishment process is by undertaking small tasks that’ll make a huge impact. A great way to start would be by taking it one task at a time rather than rushing to complete all at once. This way, you’ll have enough time to perfect your skills before moving on to the next.

✓ Paint the interior walls. Although this is a simple task but it’ll save you a lot of money if done as a DIY project. To get started, you’d have to text colour options by painting samplex on the wall first. Once done, you can go for the one that adds warmth, dynamism as well as energy to the room.

✓ Fix up your furniture. This involves re-upholstering and refinishing any piece of furniture that appears tired or overly worn (you can leave out the ones that you do not really like or unnecessary items).

✓ Spruce up small but important items used on a daily basis. This includes spray-painting inexpensive picture frames, recovering lampshades with a vibrant paper or patterned fabric, adding throw pillows to armchairs and couches and the likes.

✓ Fix all small things that are broken. This includes activities like patching the nail holes in the wall, repairing the latch on the kitchen cabinet, fixing the gutter, putting a new handle on the door and lots more.

If you’re planning to build a single story house extension, this is one of the first questions that usually comes to mind to help you set a budget and start to make plans. But as simple as it seems, a single accurate answer can not be provided due to the fact that there are several variables that can play a key role in influencing the price of a single story house extension. These variables includes the size, location, design or specification as well as the build route. In this guide, we’ll provide you with a rough estimate that you can work with to put you on the right path.

The main determinant of the cost of a single storey extension is the size of the build, while the next most relevant factor is the quality of the finish you opt for. For a small extension, you can expect to spend a sum within the range of £14,000 to £17,000. Meanwhile for a larger single storey extension, if you opt for a large wrap around the extension with a great amount of glass to be incorporated in both the walls and roof, you can expect to pay a sum within the range of £80,000 to £120,000.

Overall, the average cost of a single story house extension is usually within the range of £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK.

There are some additional costs you may also need to factor in to your extension budget. These includes surveys, architect fees, planning application fee (if needed), insurance and Party Wall Agreement (if needed).

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

If you’re not an expert floor installer who would take wall tile installation as merely being a vertical floor, you are advised to be very cautious when tackling the project. The installation of wall tiles follow some set of rules which you’d better not break if you really wish to protect your investment. And worst of all, a wall tile done wrong is a lifetime penalty of having to look at it. So how can you get it right? Well, probably by reaching out to a wall tile installation professional for a good quality solution that’ll save you time, money and effort. However, we’ve put together this guide to help give you an insight of how it works and also to help you avoid some unnecessary expenses. Let’s have a look!

1. Hang a batten board
2. Start your rows of tiles or bottom-most course with a batten board which works to prevent spillage of tiles.
3. Position the batten board at 3/4 of the tiles’ height. Ensure not to start at the floor.
4. Form A Pyramid Shape With The Tiles
5. If you’ve reached the bottom row of tile, then arrange the tile in a pyramid shape. To achieve this, you’d have to install the tiles one through four as instructed. Each following row will be draped over the pyramid.
6. Examine The Floor For Level & Walls For Plumb
7. If your floor level or plumb is off by a maximum of a half-inch over the course of 8 feet, add extra baseboards and trim to cover up the problem.
8. The Least Size Of Tiles To Be Used Is Half-Wide
9. Ensure that no “silvers (tiles that are lower than half the width of the tile in question) are incorporated in the project.

The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.