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How much energy a solar panel produces depends on its manufacturer and exposure to the sun. A good-quality solar panel typically has a power output of about 300 watts per hour, but this can vary from about 240 to 360 watts. How much energy your solar panel will produce per day depends on how many hours of unshaded daylight it’s exposed to.

Here’s an idea of how much energy you could expect a large commercial solar panel installation to produce in a year.

Solar panel system size, No. of solar panels, Annual electricity output

11kW, 44, 9,350kW

20kW, 80, 17,000kW

30kW, 120, 25,500kW

40kW, 160, 34,000kW

50kW, 200, 42,500kW

The bigger the ground source heat pump, the better right? Wrong! And you’ll definitely be sorry to make such a huge mistake. When planning to install a heat pump, determining the size of the ground source heat pump is not as direct and straightforward as many homeowners would think. Here, you’ve got only a small margin for error. When the pump is too small, the heat pump will make use of the backup heater too often and in the event whereby the heat pump is too big, it’s going to short cycle. Both situations are preferably avoided as they’ll both leave you with an expensive and inefficient system.

To get the accurate size of a heat pump, there’s usually the need to hire the services of an expert and licensed heat pump installer who possesses a top notch design calculation software. In reality, the majority of inefficient systems are caused by a lack or poor understanding of the suitable design software.

There are many factors that can influence the calculation of a home’s heat pumps size. These includes

✓ Radiators and underfloor heating sizes

✓ Insulation, property fabric as well as heat loss

✓ The number of rooms in the property

✓ The types of rooms and their uses.

✓ The desired indoor temperature for varying rooms

✓ Seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Generally, a bigger house will require a bigger ground source heat pump. With an eye on the age of the property, heat loss as well as the types of the rooms, a house of about 100 square metre can require up to 4kW ground source heat pump. And for a house that’s about 200 square metre, the ground source heat pump also doubles to 8kW.

In some cases, it’s possible to convert a basement into an apartment. This can be a great way to incorporate an additional dwelling into your property and increase its value. However, converting a basement into an apartment can be quite expensive and time-consuming.

As with any type of dwelling, you’ll need to think about basic things like access, damp proofing, ventilation, insulation, heating, electrics, plumbing, lighting and décor. If you’re planning on extending your basement, then you’ll also need to ensure that your property is sufficiently supported.

It’s a good idea to consult a professional, like a basement conversion building specialist, to find out how feasible your project is before you go ahead with it.

A bathroom is not only a pretty big investment, but also one that requires thorough planning and consideration before the work can be kick started. This is a task all homeowners will all have to go through at least once and even more so when things break or become worn too terribly to consider repair. As a result, when it comes to fitting a shower you can be sure to dig a bit deep into your pocket to start and get the project over the line. In general, the cost of your new bathroom tend to vary based on the shower installation company or plumber you choose to hire, your location, the materials required, the type of shower and other furnishings chosen and more. In this post, we aim to give you a good insight into the shower fitting pricing so as to help you help you make informed decisions moving forward.

Generally, a standard shower usually costs within the range of £100 to £120 for installation and this usually takes about 3 hours to complete. For an electric shower, you should expect to incur within the range of £100 to £150 on the plumber and a similar price range for the electrician as well. And for the shower enclosure, you can expect to pay within the range of £150 to £250 for the labour and it’ll take up to 4 hours to complete. You’ll also factor in the taps,tiling, underfloor heating, extractor fan, bath, basin and toilet.

Overall, for a complete renovation of your shower, you can expect to incur within the range of £3000 to £5000 with the average duration of the job being 10 days. Meanwhile for a standard installation (only for bathroom fixtures), this will often cost within the range of £2000 to £2500 with an average job length of around 5 days.

LNB or Low Noise Block simply refers to the feature present at the end of a satellite dish which is attached to the coaxial cables feeding the satellite receiver. There are varying types of LNB which all works in their own special way, however a general function they all provide is to serve as the satellite broadcast signal amplifier and oscillate the signal to a lower frequency band which can be contained by the coaxial cable without too much loss of the cable and the greater the frequency the better the cable resistance and the quicker you’ll lose signal as a result of the cable strength. It should, however, be noted that most LNBs (and not all), oscillate the signal down to the satellite intermediate frequency band ranging from 950Mhz to 2150Mhz.

With the availability of a wide range of LNB types, makes and models, picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs. The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

It may be shocking a whole lot of people would not be able to point out fascias and soffits on a building despite the fact that they’re an essential part of the roof. To give you an idea, they’re simply used to cover the roof beams’ ends that comes out of the wall from underneath of the roof. The board that runs vertically just below the roofline is the fascia board, which is also the long length of UPVC. Therefore if you look at the gutters located in the front of house, the board behind is called the fascia board. However, soffits runs horizontally from behind the gutters to the wall of a building, so if you walk close to a house and look up, you’ll identify the soffits. They’re done to cover the gaps between the wall house and the gutters. The main function of both soffit and fascia is to divert water away from your roof as well as walls.

Fascias and soffits were usually made of wood before UPVC came along. And as a result, they only require little maintenance, no more warping, painting or cracks unlike the wooden ones. However they also can’t last an eternity, so when the time comes and you need to replace your soffit and fascia, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’s going to cost.

Unfortunately, there’s no way to calculate an accurate cost for fascias and soffits as there are too many variables to put into consideration. These includes the type of fascia and soffit you choose as well as the size of your property. However the average cost to replace a three bed semi-detached house’s fascias and soffits is within the range of £1200 to £1500 or even more if you’re staying in London or in a larger detached building.

Plasterboard or drywall is simply gypsum plaster covered from both sides by thick paper layers. It’s known to be a highly versatile product used on both interior walls and ceiling as a result of its numerous advantages. This popular material in residential buildings can be designed to be fire resistant, humidity resistant and noise resistant. They have a low impact on the environment, while also being quite easy to repair and perfect to hide stuffs from plain sight. Most home and property owners in the UK have this material installed in their space as despite the multiple benefits, they’re also quite affordable. However, if you’re thinking about installing a plasterboard on your ceiling, one challenge you’re likely to face is determining the appropriate plasterboard thickness to incorporate as this make or mar your entire project. In this post, we’re going to take a look at the right plasterboard thickness for ceiling so as to help you make an informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, let’s consider the size of the plasterboard sheet. The standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

If you want your tarmac driveway or outdoor area to last as long as possible, it’s important to look after it. This means giving it a good clean every so often.

If there are any greasy or oily stains on your tarmac, you won’t get these off only using water. Get a degreaser and follow the instructions. You’ll then need to use a pressure washer or hose to rinse off the detergent and clean the rest of your tarmac or asphalt area.

Avoid getting your pressure washer too close to your outdoor surface or pointing it directly at it. You should also avoid cleaning the same area for too long. This will help you clean your tarmac while avoiding damaging it.